Warpaint_88

iTrader: (5)

Been out of the game for a little while (toasted water seal about 8 months ago) and I have been getting ready to do a rebuild. But guess what! I have my second child on the way now very happy about that but its going to limit my options as far as money goes. Currently my car has:

Denso fuel pump w/rewire
Power FC
Koyo Radiator/samco hoses/ast
Fighters garage intakes
m2 dp
rx7 store high flow cat
apexi n1 duals
hks twin power ignition
water temp/ boost guages


I had a pettit SMIC but at the time when the engine took a ****, I thought I was going to do a rebuild and go single at the same time. So I plan on getting another SMIC either the cool charge 3, or a pfs unit. I also planned on getting a water/meth injection kit, and a good tune.

Is there anything else anyone can think of that I would need to drop the BNR's in? larger injectors, new fpr? I also read that you need to send your y-pipe in for modification, anyone know if they will plug the whole for the blow off valve so i can run my BOV from the greddy elbow as planned with the single?

Appreciate the help. I did some good searches, and feel like I hopefully already have everything needed. I also read a thread where someone mentioned needing better solenoids. Where the hell do i get upgraded solenoids from?

BTW my hp goals are around 360 at 16psi. And I plan on cranking it sometime to shoot for 400hp on race gas, in which case i guess ill need a 3 bar map sensor. Let me know folks.

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

the larger injectors are a big time yes i guess getting the fpr would help as well, wish i kept mine instead of selling it before i put i had the chance to put it in.

also depending on how much boost and are you going seq or non seq with it..

i have seq at 18psi with my 550/1300cc injectors maxing out at about 90%... if you plan to go more towards seq, go a little bigger or just get 1600s.

for non seq i dont think it uses as much fuel for some reason so 1300s should be fine. i got a set of stock 850s if you want to bore them out to 1300s

yes it still has the 2 holes for the bov and the crv, which i believe you would keep the crv..

you could just leave them both and still use the greddy ..

also you should get that 3bar map sensor, never know you might have room to go a bit higher and then your screwed because u didnt get the mapsensor..

also that water injection will help tons with keeping air temps down under boost....

Warpaint_88

iTrader: (5)

Definately sequential. If it wasnt also for the money, it would be because I want to run a sequential setup w/ the potential of 400hp. Should be an exhilirating ride! Would i need to leave the crv intact? I might just go with pettits bov insyead of going through the time and money to replace the bov w/ aftermarket and get a flange welded in.

RXtacy

iTrader: (7)

If you are running sequential you will need to keep the CRV. You can simply cap off the stock BOV nipple if you relocate your BOV to the hard pipes. Or I'm sure Brian and BNR could weld it up. I believe the BNR twins are wider so the y-pipe has to be lengthened.

Warpaint_88

iTrader: (5)

thanks rxtacy, I just made up my mind to use pettits BOV will save me some money, and a search returned some positive results on the BOV. They have it right now for 99 and free shipping. Beats the hell out of 210 for the rs bov, 20 for a flange, and getting someone to weld it in place. Plus I like the stock location under the intakes or to the side of them. My main concern is getting my ride back on the road.

Warpaint_88

iTrader: (5)

Also, is there any performance advantage with the efini y pipe over the 93 y pipe? or was the advantage considered just to be from the crossover pipe?

MattGold

iTrader: (108)

I have the Pettit BOV, and I'm surprised how much I love it. Best bang for the buck BOV IMO.

It sounds like we are going similar routes (BNRs and a Cool Charge III are next on my list). I plan on running the Efini Y-Pipe for the sole purpose of eliminating a silicone connection in favor of a flanged/bolted connection... well, that and the crossover will now be aluminum instead of plastic.

There's a lot of Efini Y-Pipes available second hand in the $100 range (check the for sale section), I know you're on a budget, but it's probably worth it.

Warpaint_88

iTrader: (5)

Hey Matt, I did some more research on the efini y-pipe and came to find that if you want to run it with the pettit cc III you have to cut the flange off and bead roll it. Honestly, its not worth the 100 to get one used. I guess you could modify your hotside pipe to fit to the crossover pipe, but look at pettits pictures of their intercooler, its a straight pipe with a bend to match up to the stock y-pipe. You would have to modify it to fit the efini crossover tube, or modify the efini y-pipe instead.

Warpaint_88

iTrader: (5)

Direct quote from rx7store.net regarding the stage 3's.

"The stage 3 comes with an adjustable wastegate actuator. This allows you to turn up or down the boost mechanically w/o a electronic or manual boost controller. The adjustable actuator can also make the boost controllers more effective because you are working them less to turn up the boost."

Does this mean you dont need a boost controller? or does the Apexi power fc still control the boost levels?

MattGold

iTrader: (108)

You're 100% right.

Good catch and thanks for pointing that out!

-M

Warpaint_88

iTrader: (5)

Can anyone make a argument as to why I shouldnt bore out my 850 injectors to 1300's and run them with a fpr as appose to purchasing a $500 plus kit for this setup? Or would 1600's be needed?

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

I wouldn't take anything rx7store.net says as gospel, but that's just me.

What you will *need* to run BNR's depends entirely on what you plan on getting out of them. At the end of the day they are direct replacements to the stock twins. This means that you can run them on a bone stock vehicle where the only thing you've changed is the turbo's, or you can run them on a car where the only thing left stock in the engine back is the TB/UIM. What you "need" is entirely up to your end goal.

As for boost control, if your tuner knows what they are doing you can get away with just using the PFC, but do you really want to risk it? I didn't.

I would say go for the 3-bar MAP sensor and A/I for sure. I think it may behoove you to keep the stock primaries in, and go with something larger (1680cc) in the secondary position as far as fuel is concerned. You can manage it with 4x 850cc's if you want to turn up the fuel pressure, but that requires a FPR and can be a bitch to tune (or so I hear), plus you run pretty rich at idle that way (I know, I did it, lol).

All in all though, BNR sequentials are a ton of fun and def the way to go if you want good power without the full cost of going single. Done right, they are friggin wicked!

Warpaint_88

iTrader: (5)

I was planning on avoiding replacing the stock 550's with anything to avoid that rich idle. If i upgrade to the 1680 cc injectors tho, dont I need the resistor clips, and a fpr to go with it? if i did that it would be worth just getting the fuel kit.

My goals are around 360 hp at 16 psi and room to make 400 hp at around 20 psi. I think I will have all the supporting mods neccessary, and i will be doing an agressive streetport on my motor after deployment.

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

I asked my tuner in England the same question. The shop there has a fuel bench and have had plenty of time to piddle around with different injectors while cleaning them and measuring flow.

His basic response was that he was not impressed with 1300's. Because they were bored out he said their spray pattern wasn't as nice as a factory created injector, also iirc I've heard something regarding failures (I don't remember the exact facts on that one so don't quote me). I would be VERY hesitant to run modified injectors at greater than stock fuel pressures..

The guys at RE:worx in England (one of the better/best tuners in the UK) recommended I just go with 4x 850cc injectors and higher (+10 over stock) fuel pressure.

Warpaint_88

iTrader: (5)

Makes sense, I wouldnt think a injector that has been bored out would have the same spray pattern. Never thought of it that way, but totaly makes sense. Im leaning towards just getting the 1600 kit. I just want to keep my idel smooth, and not rich. BTW totally Jealous you have PFS right down the road from DC area. Im about 200 miles south

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

i have that bov also, sounds like the hks ssq one, sometimes gets annoying now but i deal with it.... also you may have to have the weld on the other side where it connects, i can show you a pic of what i mean in the morning when i can get a picture

want to keep your idle smooth dont touch your 550s primarys then, and change out only the secondary.. like i said im at 90% injector duty at 18psi prob could of go to 19psi but left it at 18psi, rather of playd it safe... wonder what 2 more psi would of given me

if your going seq like me and have all the supporting mods also water injection, you should be almost like a mirror with my tune....

and i dont have an efini y pipe, i did but ended up selling it before i used it. no problems here.

and no fpr either.. i need to get one, maybe i could of turn up the pressure a bit more to help

twinsinside

iTrader: (34)

There's a reason mazda went with the all metal y-pipe on later models.

Eliminating plastic and rubber from the engine bay as well as an extremely common failure point makes it well worth the expense. More or less it's a reliability mod, with the added benefit of polishing it to look nice.

Supernaut

iTrader: (83)

For your goals, a PFS sounds a bit to optomistic no?

kensin

iTrader: (22)

i say get 850/1680 and a aeromotive FPR RP fuel pump and call it a day.
thats if you already have a PFC or somthing standalone.

send your stock twins core in to brian at BNRsupercars give him 2100$ and tell him to mod them to full non seq and be set.

thats what im doing next month

others are gonna tell you stuff like, if your moding the BNR's to nonseq why not just go single turbo?

well your not gonna spend extra 1~2k for it. and plus you can keep the AC and PS if you want.

not like most singles out there where you gota mod them work around them or even remove them to make it work and not cook it self to death.

Warpaint_88

iTrader: (5)

I see no reason this wouldnt be a good decision, if anything i can always upgrade to an even larger turbo and wont have to get another IC. But if you feel its to much id love to hear why, Ill take any advice and opinions i can get. Want to do this right the first time.

RXtacy

iTrader: (7)

Supernaut is referring to the most common PFS stock mount as pictured below. This is a rather small intercooler to be running 20 psi through. Now PFS does also make a much larger stock mount so if you are referring to that one then there are no problems.

RXtacy

iTrader: (7)

I really have never understood the desire to go non sequential. You loose spool and on the stock sequential system your spooling booth turbos together by 4500 rpm anyway, I really don't see much advantage to going non-sequential unless its because you just want to rip out all the solenoids. That brings up another point. Is passing emissions an issue for you? If so going with an aftermarket rail and 1600cc secondaries presents some serious problems as most aftermarket rails will not fit with the ACV. I would leave the stock primaries bore out the secondaries to 1300cc and put them in the stock rail for now. When you have more money and want to shoot for higher horsepower like pushing them to 20 psi then upgrade and remove emissions.

Thats just simply not true. There is nothing stopping a single turbo set up from using the AC and power steering. Many people have done this. Not to mention the twins are much more of an oven under the hood then a single turbo is. I'm not really sure what your trying to imply with that last part, but a single frees up an immense amount of room in the engine bay.

serbRX7

iTrader: (9)

do it the right way the first time

get a V-mount ic or FMIC like blitz or apaxe - (there are 2 for sale right now in this forum in like new condition with piping and intake for a good price) and work really good with 99 Y-pipe

as far as fuel system,

go with single Bosch 044 fuel pump (do not use walbro)
and aromotive FRP you might as well go wit 6an fuel lines

Injector Dynamics 4XID1000cc injectors or stock 550CC and 2xID2000cc injectors no need for resistors or injector driver ,stay away from 850cc bored to 1300cc injectors

this would make it easier to go large single turbo in the future and running different fuels

or

you could just make things alot more simple just upgrade your primary to 850cc and supra pump, good tune...make around 360 rwhp sequential and keep it street/traffic friendly.... one thing i would still do with this setup is go to 6an lines high-flow fuel filter ,aromotive frp and eliminate pulsation damper as i really don't like stock fuel lines but thats just me...

we can give you some suggestions and point out some bad parts that you wanna stay away from...but its really all up to you in the end

Rx7aholic

iTrader: (22)

Hey a few months ago I got my car retune with BNR full non -seq at 7 psi it made 343 rwhp and 16 psi 391, This is my setup injectors =550 primary, 1300 secondary, sard fpr and upgrade fuel pump I can't remember the name I believe it's 255 lph? no meth. As for I/C it's crooke willow setup, pfs intake combine, efini y-pipe (no bov option from turbo to I/C) Exhaust is 3 inch downpipe, smb sub met cat and silence combine and racing beat catback, engine has small street port and I am using pfc and hks twin power and it does not stink. I am also running the air pump in place and acv sytem and my a.c still work on my car.
Khris

Warpaint_88

iTrader: (5)

As of right now I have a denso "supra" pump, rewired. I made up my mind to stick with the stock y-pip, and I was planning on getting the pfs race, or teh pettit cool charge III intercooler from the get go. Now it just seems like im down to figuring out my exact fuel setup im going to run. Where the hell do i get the ID2000cc injectors from? And same thing for the 6an fuel lines, recommended FRP? and the high flow fuel filter?