Yeah.. Did all the fail safe test, all the flow test, pump test, voltage test, etc. I got mine from howerton engineering. He answers his phone or calls u back every time. Super customer service. But we tested everything plus some. The system is absolutely bad ***. I have it setup to go off injector duty cycle, it also can go off boost.

 

And how did you go about confirming that the plastic diffusers caused the "chips"?

-J

 

Actually, the diffusure would first make contact with the rotor (unless it makes it through the port during full open) not the side seal itself. Even if a small piece got "scissored" off by the closing edge of the port and the rotor, then somehow got wedged in between the rotor and the side housing (past the side seal, in between the side seal and oil scraper), I still can't see it staying there for any real period of time or cause an issue.

But, I too have been wrong...twice

-J

 

semantics, i wouldn't expect it to damage the rotor much compared to the side seal which is about the least durable portions moving inside the chambers.

 

Semantics, maybe. But it doesn't change the reality of what is or is not going to happen.


-J

 

just throwing out what possibly can happen, but you're right, with the sandwich clamped down the side seals only protrude into the chamber tenths of a millimeter and will be hard pressed for anything other than just chop that thing to bits.

most of the time there is neglect to mention that the engine was run previously on a grenaded turbo or had the inlet wide open.

 

I agree. Most folks will look for anything to point the finger at when thier engine goes BOOM...


-J

 

NIce. Same with the 2d. IDC and boost. Good luck and waiting to see your findings. G

 

Ahahahaha. My other thread

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/trying-blow-my-car-up-daily-hunting-600hp-lol-981063/

 

I think it's the opposite.. I'm willing to bet those seals come out looking like banana's..

The doubt motor leaned out as he stated afr's were always in the 10's..

Pre ignition / and/ or detonation is very easy to do with pump gas.
And ultimately that was the reason this motor went..

It needs a more conserative tuneup and/or a different fuel.

 

"10's" on the wideband don't really tell us anything, especially when dealing with the unstable pump fuel...

-J

 

That's the key word right there..

 

Motor is out. Hopefully see the damage tomorrow.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAXHg...e_gdata_player

 

i know it is, but AI helps in leaps and strides to increase the knock level of pump gas. but if he attempted to run it at the 27psi he previously pushed on race fuel with the pump gas and AI then i will 100% agree, even gobs of alcohol mixed with water will not do the trick. straight water likely could handle the job with a garden sprayer in the intake but 50/50 usually hits the second wall at about 25psi.

i suppose we will just have to wait and see what happened. i just figured at that level it would have twisted the motor apart if it wasn't pinned.

 

Ok here we go.. Tore the motor apart today and i cant explain anything..

Lets start with the info..

motor popped on the dyno.. i drove it home. Next day i drove it for at least 50+ miles. Drove it a few days inbetween before i took the motor out on monday. Car fired up a little harder than normal, but drove fine. The video above is of the day right before i took the motor out..

NOW.. Lets talk miracles.. Ok so every last corner seal is broken into 3-5 pieces. All the side seals were intact and all the ALS seals were intact.. Well on the rear rotor when we took it out there was a chunk missing from the corner of the rotor.. HMMMMMM..

Wait for it..

One or two of the seals look slightly bent to the naked eye. Maybe i could be blind..

Wait for it..

Front rotor dented but seals intact, all corners busted..

And the verdict...
NOT A SCRATCH ON THE SIDE HOUSINGS AND NOT AS MUCH AS A SCRATCH ON THE ROTOR HOUSING.......

WHAT THE FART..

 

Pics.. the dent is from the front rotor..

The crack is the rear rotor and that pic of the seal is showing the space between the rotor and apex seal..

 

Could you post close up pics at an angle of cleaned up rotor housings please?

I am interested in how the ALS seals were treating your rotor housings.

 

if you went from 100 octane to 93 and 50/50 meth that was a bad choice to lol... your taking a fuel that detonates way more than 100 octane does and fed it way too much meth. Put the nozzle near the elbow with 100% meth. your upping your octane a little keeping it cool as well. and 25lbs is not something you should even consider at 93.
my single turbo car is tuned with 93 + aquamist 100% meth 1 nozzle (biggest one) in the spring it will be on race gas tune which will then have the boost simply turned down on the street and no meth.

If you have any meth questions ive been through it all... let me know

 

ALS ftw! Would like to see pics of the housings too

 

looks like the engine did twist some due to the contact witness marks on the rotors. but yeah... that is just simply too much for the pump gas unless you switch strictly to water and add more of it.

so did the seals warp or no? i see irregular wear patterns but that could be from the housings being worn.

 

Used housings and the tips of the seals were worn irregular. All seals were intact except maybe 2. What's funny is the slot that had the chunk missing had a perfectly straight seal. I have close up pics of the housings but it takes time for me to load them. My phone takes the pics in 8mb shots and the photo size is to large to upload from my phone, which I do all my forum browsing on. So I have to import them to my ipad, resize them, then post them. Dammit. lol.

 

Pic

 

Pic

 

not too bad but that chatter is only going to get worse.