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Blew it up real good. :-) where to go from here.

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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 03:55 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by djseven

Once again I hate to see it happen but am excited to see pics of the tear down. Im guessing side or corner seal, or possibly warped apex seals. I would be shocked if a piece of the apex seal chipped, but Ive been wrong before.



rs.
Still get one right every once in a while. Seriously people buy these seals if you actually enjoy driving your Rotary.

Any damage to the turbine blades?
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 04:27 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by Karack
doubt it was timing related or octane related with the AI, sounds like a chipped seal which is almost always caused by a lean condition overheating the tip of the apex seal and blowing it out with a nice sharp detonation cycle. sure he said it was in the 10's but a lean spike can happen before your readout box can even send the signal to your eyes.

i guess even ALS aren't immune to the same failures but i would like to see if that is what happened. seen the same with RA super seals but yet with Goopy racing seals.

could be the engine twisted but managed to not break an iron, just enough to pinch a seal into the rotor groove, this is tricky as the engine would have to twist just a little to cause rotor to housing contact without breaking anything, noted by 5 quarts of oil ejected from the engine in less than a minute. twisting is usually attributed to too far of advanced timing, sometimes just naturally in big horsepower builds without pinning or studs.
I agree with everything you usually say but you have to put into consideration really really good tuners like enzo racing have tuned and modded stock rotarys making over 650hp with no issues on a big bw475 turbo. Im sure that the e85 helps but tuning has alot to do with everything.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 09:15 AM
  #78  
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^ agreed totaly!
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 10:26 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by djseven
Still get one right every once in a while. Seriously people buy these seals if you actually enjoy driving your Rotary.

Any damage to the turbine blades?
No damage to the turbo. Ahahaha. My manifold uses twin wastegates that sit right at the bend in the exhaust around the upstream area. So I'm guessing anything that shot out went out right there. Even open or closed the route anything has to travel is in the path of the holes.

It was a old manifold built by Ray Wilson. I bought it off someone that did a part out on their car. I got the manifold, downpipe, and full exhaust.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 10:39 AM
  #80  
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Manifold pic
Attached Thumbnails Blew it up real good. :-) where to go from here.-attachment-3.jpeg  
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 03:29 PM
  #81  
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Ok been waiting on some new corner seals.

Kevin from South Coast Rotary sent me a set of solid corner seals and his side seals. Great guy to deal with. Answered my call at 4am Australian time..... I didn't do the math so I ended up calling him at that crazy hour. He answered and was quite pleasant. But anyways I just have to pick up a set of als seals from allrotor93 and the motor will be back together.
Attached Thumbnails Blew it up real good. :-) where to go from here.-20120210_132212-1.jpg  
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 08:56 AM
  #82  
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Why solid corner seals? I'm not sure those would have saved you looking at those carnage pics If you're going for strength consider having them cryo-treated, can't hurt

Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; Feb 11, 2012 at 09:01 AM.
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 06:53 PM
  #83  
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^^^^ the corners from South Coast Rotary are made from the same soft material as the unbreakable seals he sells. I was told the corner seals hardly ever break. Well I proved them wrong. I broke every last one. Now I trust in the ALS seals now cause they held up to my extreme abuse. So I searched for some kind of stronger corner seal. I didn't like the design of the atkins corner seals cause its a straight cut in the middle and that would cause a stress area and be prone to cracking.

The SCR seals seemed nicer. Rounded center and a half cut in. Plus the material is what sold me. I talked to Kevin from SCR for over an hour, very helpful, very knowledgeable. Was telling me of all the street cars over there running his seals and using e85 and pushing 600-700hp daily.

Gotta order some apex seals from john and the motor will be back together next week. Rotorsports Racing rebuilt my tranny as well. So I'm gucci. Lmao.
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 12:06 PM
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What are you going to do different with the engine this time, besides solid corner seals? Are you still going to get a stud kit, or changing fuel system and the tune? Am currently starting on a similar set up with the same ultimate goal of 600 to 700 whp. Can you tell me what are some of the things to watch out for.
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 09:20 PM
  #85  
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Send me those housings. They have one last battle in them for sure!
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 05:59 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by 864angel112
What are you going to do different with the engine this time, besides solid corner seals? Are you still going to get a stud kit, or changing fuel system and the tune? Am currently starting on a similar set up with the same ultimate goal of 600 to 700 whp. Can you tell me what are some of the things to watch out for.
No stud kit< fuel staying the same, and just a tune. Im not gonna be the first to re-invent the wheel so im not gonna try. I have a few people helping me along the way with advice and knowledge. My setup is more than capable of reaching my 600hp goal. Just need to tweak some things..

I do plan on upgrading to the e&j throttle body setup soon maybe.. also wanna do a 3 rotor before i die. lol.. but who knows

600 is feasable. 700 is a little more tricky. Contact and search for the guys that run, build, race and own 600-700hp cars and start asking questions. Someone will help you. Thats what i do. I know just enough to be dangerous. lol
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Islander
No stud kit< fuel staying the same, and just a tune. Im not gonna be the first to re-invent the wheel so im not gonna try. I have a few people helping me along the way with advice and knowledge. My setup is more than capable of reaching my 600hp goal. Just need to tweak some things..

I do plan on upgrading to the e&j throttle body setup soon maybe.. also wanna do a 3 rotor before i die. lol.. but who knows

600 is feasable. 700 is a little more tricky. Contact and search for the guys that run, build, race and own 600-700hp cars and start asking questions. Someone will help you. Thats what i do. I know just enough to be dangerous. lol

I can get you that throttle body
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 11:29 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by Islander
No stud kit< fuel staying the same, and just a tune. Im not gonna be the first to re-invent the wheel so im not gonna try. I have a few people helping me along the way with advice and knowledge. My setup is more than capable of reaching my 600hp goal. Just need to tweak some things..

I do plan on upgrading to the e&j throttle body setup soon maybe.. also wanna do a 3 rotor before i die. lol.. but who knows

600 is feasable. 700 is a little more tricky. Contact and search for the guys that run, build, race and own 600-700hp cars and start asking questions. Someone will help you. Thats what i do. I know just enough to be dangerous. lol

Hey neal you ever thought maybe switching over to a haltech or a microtech? it seems like people seem to squeeze better numbers out of those two EMS's over a power FC..
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 06:02 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by drftinmx6
Hey neal you ever thought maybe switching over to a haltech or a microtech? it seems like people seem to squeeze better numbers out of those two EMS's over a power FC..
I will be switching ecu's one day.. and the goal is to upgrade with one that can run a 3 rotor. So maybe microtech or better yet tech3..
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 11:18 PM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by Islander
I will be switching ecu's one day.. and the goal is to upgrade with one that can run a 3 rotor. So maybe microtech or better yet tech3..
i'd say based on what i've seen what tuners can do with a microtech, i'd say go with that.
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 07:56 AM
  #91  
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Just a update. I bought new rotor housings and everything is at Rotorsports Racing being prepped for assembly. I also decided to upgrade my turbo. Elliot at Turblown is providing me with a GTX42R. So soon we will see how this turbo performs over my Borg unit. Hopefully the car will be back running in about 2-3weeks.
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 11:32 AM
  #92  
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Why you switching turbos
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 04:36 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by 864angel112
Why you switching turbos
Wanted to upgrade to a new school setup. The borg warner is a awesome performer for the value. But i always wanted a ball bearing turbo and wanted a new design wheel ie. the billet gtx42r. Im hoping it out spools the borg and can produce better numbers in the higher psi range.. I plan to run 25 psi as a daily number and hope to get it up to 30 on race gas and see what she can do. Soon bro, soon..
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 07:32 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by Islander
I will be switching ecu's one day.. and the goal is to upgrade with one that can run a 3 rotor. So maybe microtech or better yet tech3..
A sound piece of advice would be to do it once and do it right. The Motec M84 isn't too expensive at $2700 and its a far superior ecu than either the tech3 or microtech...
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by rcracer_tx
A sound piece of advice would be to do it once and do it right. The Motec M84 isn't too expensive at $2700 and its a far superior ecu than either the tech3 or microtech...
A $500 MegaSquirt is better than either one of those options. MoTeC's get rather pricey once you start adding options that come standard on most of the other ECUs.
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 08:51 AM
  #96  
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I was actually leaning towards the tec3 or a autronic sm4. But that's down the road.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 04:45 PM
  #97  
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Islander, do you have any concern about the chatter marks left by the ALS seals? Or do you feel it was related to the internal carnage. If you are patient, you can get them in 3mm in the next month or so likely.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 05:23 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by Trots*88TII-AE*
Islander, do you have any concern about the chatter marks left by the ALS seals? Or do you feel it was related to the internal carnage. If you are patient, you can get them in 3mm in the next month or so likely.
I really don't honestly know. I bought brand new housings for this new build and guess we can get a better idea of wear later on. The motor is gonna be done this week so no go on the 3mm seals. Hopefully after 100k miles. Lol. I'm really hoping she can survive that long. Those were used housings and not sure how good they were from the start.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 10:19 PM
  #99  
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;u8
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 07:03 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by Islander
I also decided to upgrade my turbo. Elliot at Turblown is providing me with a GTX42R. So soon we will see how this turbo performs over my Borg unit. Hopefully the car will be back running in about 2-3weeks.
Which compressor? 94mm or 102mm exducer?

I was really hoping that you would go with BW S400SX-67mm FMW. Compressor is substantially smaller than both versions of 42R, so peak flow is obviously slightly smaller, but still good for over 800 HP and also higher rotational speed of compressor for given mass flow is good for turbine efficiency and reducing backpressure. And its cheap.

Only problem is that its T4 flanged and IIRC your manifold is for T6 setup? Otherwise choose of 42R is understandable, bigger compressor will work better if it will find its home on 20B.
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