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best street clutch for 350whp or up?

Old Jan 18, 2009 | 09:05 PM
  #26  
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a sprung 6 puck is quite different from the un-sprung version in my experiences. Having had both, if the 6 puck is required, I would go sprung.
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 02:17 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mono4lamar
+1, Who in the world would want to try dealing with a 4 puck clutch
I did, in my old turbo Prelude. Worst decision EVER!
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 02:18 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by OzzManG149
I have had the ACT unsprung 6 disk and it was like a switch very unmanagable on the street.
Ditto. Unsprung hubs are NOT fun to drive on the street, especially when parking.
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 03:21 PM
  #29  
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at least stay faaaaar away from spec, i have the spec stage 3 kit,9pound flywheel and a 6puch carbon ceramic disc, it is horrible, even after 2 years im not completely used to it, its different ewerytime i drive it, i miss my stock clutch
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 05:54 PM
  #30  
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Has anyone had any exsperience with compotition clutchs
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 07:30 PM
  #31  
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Exedy cerametalic twin plate, period. Very streetable, no heavy pedal, wont break your cluth fork, last for a long time with ~350whp, and comes with the flywheel.
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 01:42 PM
  #32  
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Midaway's Centerforce dual Friction, doe's anybody know this?
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 02:57 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by pietrino
Midaway's Centerforce dual Friction, doe's anybody know this?
I've heard Honda guys like centerforce, but i've heard some horror stories from guys using their pull-style FD clutches. I'd just go ACT and be done with it
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 06:45 PM
  #34  
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i guees it will be my choise ATC street\strip cluch.
Thanks
Pietro
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 12:14 PM
  #35  
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While you're in there, might want to consider replacing the clutch fork and throwout bearing (depending on mileage), as well as re-torquing all 18 tension bolts to spec (24-28 ft-lbs).
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 11:02 PM
  #36  
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+1 for the act street/strip. I would hate having a 6puck on the street.
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Old Feb 23, 2009 | 06:01 PM
  #37  
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i have about 70k kilometers wich is about 45k miles. You thik is better? how much could cost this more?
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Old Feb 23, 2009 | 08:11 PM
  #38  
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well ill add my 2 cent. i currently have an act 6-puck solid hub and like others have said it is different every time i get in it???? i even have a stock flywheel to make it a bit easier with the weight but it really didnt help. only reason i used it is it came with my car when i bought it so free parts get used. Now it only has like 3000miles and im done with it i feel it makes more trans gear noise because there is no cusion there and is just a nightmare to drive when you never know what your going to get for engagment every time. I have ordered a ACT street modified disk to replace it till i need something more. i believe your driveline will last much longer using sprung and organic.
My roomote also has a 6-puck sprung hub spec clutch and it is WAYYYYYYY more streetable than a solid hub but is in a sc300 1jz and i feel the higher torque makes it easier to drive off idle/stop.

z
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Old Feb 23, 2009 | 09:59 PM
  #39  
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another notable member also recommended the Exedy cerametalic twin plate, but I don't remember who. I basically got the impression that this is basically the last clutch you will need, and it's streetable. I did hear it's quite pricey, just throwing it out there...
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 07:04 AM
  #40  
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i ended up buying a used but still in good condition Cusco 6- puck clutch with lighted flywheel and counterweight. The pedal is a bit harder but nothing too drastic but the gear enganment and getting off the line is a bit tricky. Sometimes the clutch feels great but if i shift too slow it makes like a clunk sound. also the flywheel is a bit tricky getting off the line.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 02:09 AM
  #41  
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Just a questions, i don't find the street\strip ATC on the website, wich is?
http://www.advancedclutch.com/119249...1.3L_T_FI.html
HDMM or HDSS????
Thanks
Pietro.
What else i need to change? bearing line clutch or something???
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