The best solenoid replacement.
#1
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The best solenoid replacement.
So, I'm almost finished with re-hosing my rats nest. i was able to salvage all of the solenoids on it, except one. I've got an e-mail sent to Ray at Malloy to get a price on a new stock one, I figured it would be the easiest, since I'm not changing anything else.
But are there any other replacements out there that are a simple plug-and-play type replacement?
But are there any other replacements out there that are a simple plug-and-play type replacement?
#2
Mr. Links
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IMO, I would just use stock replacements. However:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/custom-replacement-solenoid-system-404243/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/custom-replacement-solenoid-system-404243/
#3
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If it's boost you're concerned about, I'd change the 2 turbo control solenoids, the charge control solenoid, and charge relief solenoid. New from Mazda. If you're running at all above 10psi, also install a pressure regulator on the pressure tank. That should keep you free of solenoid trouble for another 100k.
And change the check valves if you haven't got new ones handy.
And change the check valves if you haven't got new ones handy.
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Thanks for the info, guys. As far as the check valves go. . .I should be able to get those from any auto parts store, right? I don't necessarily need the Mazda valves? Any check valve of the same diameter should work. . . and they're sold at places like discount or advance??
#5
Mr. Links
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Originally Posted by rx slim
Thanks for the info, guys. As far as the check valves go. . .I should be able to get those from any auto parts store, right? I don't necessarily need the Mazda valves? Any check valve of the same diameter should work. . . and they're sold at places like discount or advance??
https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-center-69/now-available-viton-check-valves-much-cheaper-than-stock-391766/
#6
RX-7 Bad Ass
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I'm the check valve guy . PM'd you with more info.
Dale
Dale
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Thanks for the PM Dale. . .I'm placing my order right after I finish writing this post. Also had a good time surfing around your site. I'll definitely do the fuel pump rewire while the car is apart. Good info!
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#8
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
If it's boost you're concerned about, I'd change the 2 turbo control solenoids, the charge control solenoid, and charge relief solenoid. New from Mazda. If you're running at all above 10psi, also install a pressure regulator on the pressure tank. That should keep you free of solenoid trouble for another 100k.
And change the check valves if you haven't got new ones handy.
And change the check valves if you haven't got new ones handy.
Thanks,
Jeremy
#9
The best replacement is to use the 96+ soolenoids that came with the famous black box.They work flawlessly at 18 psi.The catch is that the connectors are slightly different,they need modification.
#10
Anybody know of a cheap pressure regulator that can be used on the pressure chamber? Also I want a vacuum regulator to only allow -13 psi and no more to my BOV?
I'm not sure about regulating pressure so any help i could get would be greatly appreciated.
Jeremy
I'm not sure about regulating pressure so any help i could get would be greatly appreciated.
Jeremy
#12
Rotary Freak
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Originally Posted by 3rd Gen Jeremy
Anybody know of a cheap pressure regulator that can be used on the pressure chamber? Also I want a vacuum regulator to only allow -13 psi and no more to my BOV?
I'm not sure about regulating pressure so any help i could get would be greatly appreciated.
Jeremy
I'm not sure about regulating pressure so any help i could get would be greatly appreciated.
Jeremy
#13
Originally Posted by Cgotto6
No such thing as negative psi bud.
WHAT'S THE NOTATION inHg? Whatever it equates to the same thing. It's a vacuum and the math works out to the same thing.
#15
Originally Posted by Speed of light
You don't need to limit the vacuum side of the system; it is, in effect, self-limiting. The max you can typically generate with an engine will be about -16 to -18 in. of hg (inches of mercury) which is about -8psi.
yeah the problem I'm having is that my GReddy BOV is open at idle. I can't adjust the screw enough to get it to close at idle. It opens at -13 of hg. My idle is pulling -17. When I'm idling the valve is open, when I blip the throttle, it closes.
I was thinking that I could limit the vacuum in the line and keep it closed at idle.
The thing I'm really worried about is the 15+ psi I'm running prematurely wearing out my solenoids. They're brand new and I'd like them to last a while.
Has anybody used a pressure regulator that they like on their pressure tank?
Thanks,
Jeremy
#17
Moderator
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The turbo control solenoid on the pressure side will stick if it's subjected to too much pressure. Most will stick around 12-15psi. As you can tell, that's not good for people running above stock boost. The simple answer is to put a very small regulator on the pressure tank to keep the solenoid line pressure at 8-10psi.
Dave
Dave
#21
Huh?
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I figured as much. I guess I will try to give him a call later this week.
Anyone know what hours he keeps there?
*edit* Sorry again for the thread hijack!!
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