Best mods to make my FD a track star?
09-09-10, 02:52 AM
#1
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Best mods to make my FD a track star?
Hey guys,
I've made the decision to make my FD more track focused and begin racing it next year. I would really like some input on where I should be focusing my mods for the best performance gain.
Obviously proper maintenance is key, making sure everything is up to snuff, yada yada yada. I get that, and it will be in top shape or I won't be racing it...
Also, I know the best mod you can do is to improve what's in the driver's seat. I'm going to be taking a couple racing schools, and practicing my *** off, so don't worry about that.
This is pure and simple: What is the best and easiest way to shave precious seconds off my lap times?
Here is my list of mods thus far;
1993 JDM Type-R
-Apexi Intake
-HKS Cat-back
-Power FC
-Walbro fuel pump
-HKS Hypermax coil-overs
-Works lightweight rims
-Dunlop Direzza tires
-Project Mu brakes
-Koyo N-flow rad
-Samco rad hoses
-Defi oil and coolant temp and boost gauges
-fresh coolant flush, oil change, etc.
-new thermostat, fuel filter, etc.
Mods I will absolutely be doing;
-aftermarket AST
-vacuum line job
-Battery relocation to trunk
My budget is around $2500, but is flexible.
I'm leaning towards a new SMIC. Probably a CC3. Also, most likely a midpipe/downpipe combo. (I have the stock JDM DP without the pre-cat so it's not as much of a worry for me just yet) I'd also love a wideband, just to be safe.
I'm running stock twins and stock ports right now, but I don't have the budget to change that just yet...
I feel pretty well set-up reliability and handling-wise. Is there anything blatant that I'm missing out on?
Any advice is greatly appreciated!
I've made the decision to make my FD more track focused and begin racing it next year. I would really like some input on where I should be focusing my mods for the best performance gain.
Obviously proper maintenance is key, making sure everything is up to snuff, yada yada yada. I get that, and it will be in top shape or I won't be racing it...
Also, I know the best mod you can do is to improve what's in the driver's seat. I'm going to be taking a couple racing schools, and practicing my *** off, so don't worry about that.
This is pure and simple: What is the best and easiest way to shave precious seconds off my lap times?
Here is my list of mods thus far;
1993 JDM Type-R
-Apexi Intake
-HKS Cat-back
-Power FC
-Walbro fuel pump
-HKS Hypermax coil-overs
-Works lightweight rims
-Dunlop Direzza tires
-Project Mu brakes
-Koyo N-flow rad
-Samco rad hoses
-Defi oil and coolant temp and boost gauges
-fresh coolant flush, oil change, etc.
-new thermostat, fuel filter, etc.
Mods I will absolutely be doing;
-aftermarket AST
-vacuum line job
-Battery relocation to trunk
My budget is around $2500, but is flexible.
I'm leaning towards a new SMIC. Probably a CC3. Also, most likely a midpipe/downpipe combo. (I have the stock JDM DP without the pre-cat so it's not as much of a worry for me just yet) I'd also love a wideband, just to be safe.
I'm running stock twins and stock ports right now, but I don't have the budget to change that just yet...
I feel pretty well set-up reliability and handling-wise. Is there anything blatant that I'm missing out on?
Any advice is greatly appreciated!
09-09-10, 03:26 AM
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
perhaps look into some aftermarket suspension/coilovers?
iv got hks coilovers and they can be pretty rough on certian stretches of road. But thats what having an FD is about, the feeling of driving a no compromise sportscar
iv got hks coilovers and they can be pretty rough on certian stretches of road. But thats what having an FD is about, the feeling of driving a no compromise sportscar
09-09-10, 07:58 AM
#3
Racing Rotary Since 1983
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https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/making-case-rotary-powered-fd-fix-806104/
read the first post at a minimum and install a water AI system...
https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/howard-colemans-fd-chassis-setup-723617/
setup.
howard
read the first post at a minimum and install a water AI system...
https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/howard-colemans-fd-chassis-setup-723617/
setup.
howard
09-09-10, 08:19 AM
#4
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I agree with Howard, AI is an excellent investment. I would also go with a front mount over a SMIC. They're so cheap, and no heat soak to be had. Even after those 2 items in addition to what you already planned, you should still have like $1000 to spend. With that- Downpipe/midpipe/boost controller? And you would still have some cash left over.
09-09-10, 09:05 AM
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The driver mod, keep going to track days no matter what setup you have and you'll improve times substantially. Then go get some go fast mods after youre more familiar with the car.
09-09-10, 09:13 AM
#9
F'n Newbie...
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Best track mod would probably be the driver mod. Track time and a professional driving school, if applicable.
I think it's safe to say that if the driver is no good then it doesn't matter what the car is capable of.
I think it's safe to say that if the driver is no good then it doesn't matter what the car is capable of.
Also, I'd recommend getting rid of the AST all together...One of the best things I ever did! 
09-09-10, 12:10 PM
#13
I dont see sway bars on your mod list, thats a good area to start at. I recommend the RB sway bar package with the front swar bar reinforcement mount
Another good mod to have done to the car is a 1.5 way LSD.
They induce a slight amount of understeer, which depends on the aggressiveness as to how it is setup, but offer way more grip to the rear wheels.
You can always adjust the suspension and tire pressure to counteract any unwanted understeer.
Depending on how aggressive its setup, they can be a bit noisy with the popping, clunking and groaning.
But what you are planning on doing first like the AST, vacuum hose job, and batter relocation is a great place to start.
As for the vacuum lines, i recommend that you take the time to test each and every single solenoid first and replace as necessary. While each solenoid is in the area of around $60 each and the wastegate and pre-control solenoid is $120, its always a good idea to make sure your sequential system is in good health.
I tested all my solenoids because I had irregular boost issues(too little boost from secondary) i decided to test all my solenoids and i found that my wastegate and pre-control solenoid was sticking when it gets hot. $120 from Ray Crowe and now my boost hits harder than ever.
But i have yet to replace all the rubber vacuum lines for silicone since mine are still quite pliable since i bought my FD with 46k miles, unmolested and gently used. Bought from an elder gentleman
09-09-10, 12:36 PM
#16
Where has my $ gone?
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But what you are planning on doing first like the AST, vacuum hose job, and batter relocation is a great place to start.
As for the vacuum lines, i recommend that you take the time to test each and every single solenoid first and replace as necessary. While each solenoid is in the area of around $60 each and the wastegate and pre-control solenoid is $120, its always a good idea to make sure your sequential system is in good health.
I tested all my solenoids because I had irregular boost issues(too little boost from secondary) i decided to test all my solenoids and i found that my wastegate and pre-control solenoid was sticking when it gets hot. $120 from Ray Crowe and now my boost hits harder than ever.
But i have yet to replace all the rubber vacuum lines for silicone since mine are still quite pliable since i bought my FD with 46k miles, unmolested and gently used. Bought from an elder gentleman
09-09-10, 06:31 PM
#19
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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I would *not* recommend just jumping to R Compound tires. They can be very unforgiving at the limit, which with new drivers can be disastrous.
Scrub and I have tracked our FDs a number of times this year with much success, at least as far as I measure it
. He's running Dunlop Direzza Star Specs, and I have the Yokohama AD08s. Both top tier street tires with phenomenal grip...... on a recent track day with the Viper Club down at NJ MS park, my AD08s combined with the new Zeal coilovers had me wishing I had harnesses installed in the car. I was coming out of my Spirit-R Recaros on tight turns, there was that much grip. I also was running neck and neck with a newer Viper with Moton coilovers and wide (345mm rears) Michelin PS Cup road race rubber. He was a bit..... surprised at my skinny street tires and tiny engine 
I agree that the Walbro has a poor reputation, and the 'competition' fuel pump offered by RP/rx7.com is reported to support up to 500 rwhp. Gaby Stern, a top microtech tuner relayed this a friend of mine during a tuning session. Based on this it's something better than the standard supra tt pump, and should be a viable option.
Scrub and I have tracked our FDs a number of times this year with much success, at least as far as I measure it
. He's running Dunlop Direzza Star Specs, and I have the Yokohama AD08s. Both top tier street tires with phenomenal grip...... on a recent track day with the Viper Club down at NJ MS park, my AD08s combined with the new Zeal coilovers had me wishing I had harnesses installed in the car. I was coming out of my Spirit-R Recaros on tight turns, there was that much grip. I also was running neck and neck with a newer Viper with Moton coilovers and wide (345mm rears) Michelin PS Cup road race rubber. He was a bit..... surprised at my skinny street tires and tiny engine I agree that the Walbro has a poor reputation, and the 'competition' fuel pump offered by RP/rx7.com is reported to support up to 500 rwhp. Gaby Stern, a top microtech tuner relayed this a friend of mine during a tuning session. Based on this it's something better than the standard supra tt pump, and should be a viable option.
09-09-10, 07:03 PM
#20
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Lot of good suggestions here. I do agree that making more power is not the answer. Learn how to push the car to the limits then upgrades on those. By this I mean the suspension and tires. Then you can put a bit of more power down.
09-09-10, 09:29 PM
#21
I agree on focusing on reliability, good tires and upgrading mostly the suspension. AI should be at the top of the reliability list. After you install the oil temp gauge you may keep an eye on the temps (log if possible) to see if upgrading the oil coolers is in your future. The engine utilizes oil as a major cooling resource. You really have a good start on the car, after you start tracking it you will have a better idea of items that need addressed.
09-09-10, 11:12 PM
#22
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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One thing that kind of surprised me was on the track day I mentioned earlier it was 100+ degrees on track, and my oil temps never got past 200 while lapping. Refurbished OEM R1 coolers, 99 spec bumper, R-Magic ducts, fresh Idemitsu 20w50 full synthetic.
Water temps are another thing though. Morning sessions I was able to stay around 102, but once it heated up in the afternoon and I was pushing the car more b/c of familiarity with the track, I couldn't make it more than 6-7 laps, about half the session. This was shutting down at 105C, that's about the extent of my comfort level. Blitz FMIC (doh), Fluidyne rad, 1.3 bar cap, 50/50 mix water to coolant, deleted AST, p/s, a/c.
Plan is to run 70/30 mix, and plug some gaps to better push air directly through the rad core. I should probably turn the boost down too, I think I saw ~17 psi on the main straight
Oh, and without my water injection I'm pretty sure my problems would have been much, much worse
Water temps are another thing though. Morning sessions I was able to stay around 102, but once it heated up in the afternoon and I was pushing the car more b/c of familiarity with the track, I couldn't make it more than 6-7 laps, about half the session. This was shutting down at 105C, that's about the extent of my comfort level. Blitz FMIC (doh), Fluidyne rad, 1.3 bar cap, 50/50 mix water to coolant, deleted AST, p/s, a/c.
Plan is to run 70/30 mix, and plug some gaps to better push air directly through the rad core. I should probably turn the boost down too, I think I saw ~17 psi on the main straight
Oh, and without my water injection I'm pretty sure my problems would have been much, much worse
09-09-10, 11:45 PM
#23
Yank all of the turbo parts, IC, controls and cats. Pull the motor and P-port it. While your doing that project, go get a used Miata and drive the hell out of it until you can stick w/ the Vettes even though they blow you away on the straights. By the time you get the P-port built, you should have enough track experience to know how to keep the revs up to where you are always in the power band of the P-port. And wear a helmet. Happy motoring!!
EDIT: Oh, and Tien coilovers and 17 x 8 R compound tires.
EDIT: Oh, and Tien coilovers and 17 x 8 R compound tires.
09-10-10, 04:39 PM
#24
I know it might be stretching your budget but you should consider a vmount intercooler setup, there are a few "do it yourself" vmount projects that were done on the forum, 007orkman comes to mind. Do a quick search and if you are pretty handy you might be able to do it all for cheaper than a SMIC.
09-10-10, 04:52 PM
#25
Where has my $ gone?
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Yank all of the turbo parts, IC, controls and cats. Pull the motor and P-port it. While your doing that project, go get a used Miata and drive the hell out of it until you can stick w/ the Vettes even though they blow you away on the straights. By the time you get the P-port built, you should have enough track experience to know how to keep the revs up to where you are always in the power band of the P-port. And wear a helmet. Happy motoring!!
EDIT: Oh, and Tien coilovers and 17 x 8 R compound tires.
EDIT: Oh, and Tien coilovers and 17 x 8 R compound tires.