agent712

Just looking for opinions. I like the M2 medium... just not the price tag...

Downpipe, midpipe, Racing beat exhaust, Hi flow AMSOIL air filter in modified stock air box, and boost set to 12-13 psi (or at least it will be once we get a boost controller).


Thanks
Chuck

agent712

Oh yeah, forgot, and an RE Amemiya ECU....



Later
Chuck

agent712

lol, oh yeah, forgot..... How much power will an intercooler add to this setup?


Thanks
Chuck

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

IMO, I would look for a decent SMIC. There are quite a few good ones around like M2, Pettit, etc.. There is also:

Any of the aftermarket IC's are better than the stock unit so you really can't go wrong. I'm using a Blitz SMIC because I got a really good deal on it. However, if I didn't have one already, I would go for either the M2 (ASP) or Pettit SMICs. Don't forget, you get what you pay for so don't go cheap unless you have to...

1FooknTiteFD

IT depends how you are going to drive the car. If you don't plan on any heavy road course driving under 100 degree temps you can go for a front mount. However front mounts are harder to install and a lot of them you have to relocate your battery and even chop up the front bumper or bumper support. If you want to keep things simple then go for the Greddy SMIC. I have a friend who switched from the M2 to the Greddy and when he put the car on the dyno, he did not lose any power at all

SanJoRX7

Also, if you're in CA, the Greddy SMIC is the only one that has the CARB certification, if that matters to you. It'll keep the cops off your *** if they pull you over and have you pop the hood, and the smog guys, but those are your only benefits for the Greddy.

I'd be curious to see why there was no power loss from the M2 to the Greddy since they appear to be vastly different in size. Anyone got any stats on them?

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

The HKS FMIC is CARB certified as well.
I would go with an ASP med, or large from the RX-7 store.

SanJoRX7

Whoa, didn't know that. Live and learn. I'll add it to my list of TWO, count 'em, two CARB cert'd IC's.

Johnsrx7

If you are keeping your stock airbox, you can only go with one like the Greddy stock mount, every other IC requires a new airbox.

Save your pennies and get an M2 medium, don't be cheap!

RX7SpiritR

iTrader: (1)

intercooler doesn't really ADD power, it really just allows you to run more boost safely and higher boost = more power, that's where the power is going to come from.

SleepR1

Rx7SpiritR,

Well, if at the same boost level you cram into the UIM (upper intake manifold) a really cool, dense air charge, your ECU will have to add more fuel for a bigger BANG! Thus, although the IC does NOT make more boost pressure, a good IC can minimize pressure drop between inlet and outlet sides of the IC cores, which decreases back pressure that your turbo impellers have to fight to make a given amount of boost pressure, and thus becomes more efficient in making boost pressure!

Couple the new found efficiency in boost making with a cooler denser air charge, with more fuel supplied by the injectors, and BANG you get a bigger dose of power from stock boost pressures.

Factor into this whole scenario a ported motor, with really fast spooling J-spec twins, and you're going to make MORE power for a given amount of boost pressure, especially with a large cored IC (whether FMIC, SMIC, or HMIC)...!

RX7SpiritR

iTrader: (1)

ok, that's true. I wasn't thinking of that. Duh, very true you have good point. So really if you boost higher then your gonna get double the power at that point from cooler charge. Thanks for pointing that out SleepR1!

SleepR1

no problem...

IMHO, your turbochargers need to make boost pressure that are well within the efficiency of the turbochargers.

For instance the stock US spec twins make 9.1 psi max pressure, while the J-specs make 10.8 psi max pressure. If you stay within these boost pressure efficiency limits, while using a larger IC core, efficient cold air intake system, more fuel, more motor cooling from a Koyo radiator, you'll make large power gains just by staying within the turbochargers' maximum efficiency.

Those FD enthusiasts who routinely run 14 to 15 psi on stock twins are outside the US spec twins' efficiency range which is why they don't make as much RELIABLE power at a given boost pressure than a large single turbocharger making the same 14 to 15 psi of boost. The reason is that the 14-15 psi is well within the big single turbo's maximum efficiency, and thus makes stronger, more reliable boost pressure compared with the same 14-15 psi boost pressure from stock twins. What will happen is that you will eventually burn up the US spec twins running 14-15 psi boost levels; they were NOT designed to run efficiently at that level!

RX7SpiritR

iTrader: (1)

cool, thanks for the info dude!

SleepR1

FWIW, I'm going with the Greddy SMIC. I plan to run no more than 10 psi of boost from my J-spec twins and ported motor. Fuel enrichment wil come from an A'pexi PFC. I'm told the Greddy SMIC core is larger than the PFS core, and works the same with the stock airbox and RB intake duct as the PFS IC core does with their cool charge air intake, for HALF of PFS'es setup!!!???