Hi,
as the subject says.. I need to know the best wideband O2 kit for a 3rd gen rx-7... Also should be economincal... I was thinking of going for the innovative wideband but i do not know any technical details is it good for a rx-7... or should i go for the techedge??

Please recommend and explain in the easiest way possible which one to choose and why...

This is from a guy who just lost his second motor and do not want to loose another one....ME



Also any other thing which would make a rotary safer and reliable....

 

i have a greddy air/fuel ratio metre and it works fine but im not shoure if its compatable with the datalogit it displays from 18.0 to 8.0 ratios good enough with memory,hold,peak funtions. its originally logs on the grediss 9000 jdm greddy datalogger. not shoure about datalogit though. dont just buy the most expensive kit buy a kit with your needs check www.rx7.com www.rx7store.net has the AEM kit and if you do a little search most people especially in USA choose innovative wideband,techedge,fjo etc

 

i was further surfing the net to make the final choice.. I like the innovative wideband but someone on this forum has posted that he had some problems with innovative on the FD.. something worng with the sensor... which one is best suited for the rx-7??


Please advise and give your experiences.... i am going single turbo.. need to have the car perfectly tuned... there are no rx-7 tuners here...In Pakistan

 

A knock sensor J&S probhably, would be a wise investment... or an AEM ECU, which allready has 2 inputs for knock, and can retard fuel and ignition on either rotor face seperately....

 

or this one, which has a wideband, knock sensor and a million other features. I love mine

http://www.turboxs.com/txstuner.htm

 

why would you want to retard them individualy, taht would just put uneven pressure on them causing stress?

you woudlent retard just one pistons ignition.

(not arguing, just asking)

 

AEM system is best economic

road race engineering has best price, $279 with sensor

 

I just got the LM1 and I love it, it doesnt look very "cool" but has so many options and is very affordable($300 through the nopistons/rotary rev. group buy) . The original programming had problems with the sensor overheating and reading an error but they seem to have fixed it with the latest version of the sorfware. Been running with it in for a week tuning as I go under vacuum and when I hook up the aux/tach input I will be able to tune the boost areas. It's real easy to change the outputs and inputs, I now have it displaying my AFR through my SBC-ID. Great product IMO.

 

I am sooo confused... I really like the LM-1 and the AEM Widebands but which is the better one on an FD...

I would go for the LM-1 as rdavidsrx7 says he has been using for a week... if it works for him i think it should work for me fine too....


Some more input ppl.. any comparision between the AEM unit and the LM-1 on a FD..

How difficult is the installation sine i am in Pakistan might be the first one with a wideband

 

A friend of mine put me on to this Wideband kit. http://www.widebando2.com/ I'm going to research more about the power fc and this wideband kit. If anyone has any input on the 2 please share.

Jay

 

Because the rear rotor (closest to the fire wall) runs hotter than the front one...
If you look the rear rotor has little pits in the rotor, this as I understand it is to reduce compression, and therefore reduce pre-ignition ....
Now we're not talking compression as in my motor is blown compression, but as in Compression Ratio of a chamber...

So if the rear rotor starts to pre-ignite / knock before the front one, why cut fuel and spark on both !? Even if you do, there is a chance that the mic (knock sensor) is on the wrong rotor housing... in other words the Rotor that is detonating isn't the one that has the sensor... likely is by the time it's seriously knocking (maybe too late) the mic on the other housing might pick it up... the advantage of 2 is you can monitor each individually...

(Not Arguing )

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=294659

 

I'm glad that the Innovate guys got the firmware sorted out to work with the Rotary's high EGT's. I wish they had back when I struggled to get to work on my car. It is a pretty good deal at just $349.00 and the IMS guys are great to deal with.

Too bad the LM-1 doesn't have a separate display yet. Also, the LM-1 is way too big to mount. Other than that it's a pretty cool item.

I recommend the TE WB 2.0

 

interesting, they list it at $346

 

actualy the lm1's out put can make almost anything work as it's seperate display, even a cheap autometer a/f gauge and would turn it into a wideband reader. But yeah the lm1 is a bit of an ugly box on it's own.

jpandes, i remeber reading your older post or two about your probs and how the heatsinks didnt even work, I thought I would find a way to make it work with heat sinks etc. but was really happy when I didn't need any of that crap.
I will be hooking up the aux/tach input tonight so I will let ya know how that works tomorow, should be able to do some good datalogging now which at 100 dollars will save me alot over buying the datalogit.

 

economic+wideband=uh oh... if your gonna tune, get a pro-built one which is relible (you are putting your 3-5k engine+turbos on the line when you play around with tuning). If you can't afford a wideband, stick to 10psi or under and you'll be just fine. (I know very few people which can handle 10psi on a FD at the limit of grip, espeically in the rain. Straight line is for pussies, well untill you pass 150 hehe).

good luck

 

I like my AEM. That's really all I can say though

 

oops, you're right jason, their price on teh AEM C2DI is $279, isn't yours $325?

 

How about KDR's anti detonation device?

 

stay on topic

 

Just installed aux cable for rpm pickup and various other readings so I can do dataloging with the LM1. RPMs work very well, I am just trying to tweak how it interprets the pressure sensors voltage outputs so that they will line up with P cells in my pfc so as to make my tuning easier. Have not tried temp readings or anything else but I dont really plan to either.

 

I've used the FJO kit extensively and it works great either standalone (using its own display) or hooked up to an engine management system that can read it (Hondata in my case).

The only downside is that the kit is not cheap. I paid $900 for it a few years ago, but the price may have dropped some due to other people (like AEM) now offering cheaper solutions.

Sonny

 

Buy the datalogit! I can't see how anyone can tune the PFC with out it. It does so much more than just logging data. You should meet up with someone in your area who has one and check it out.

 

Wow. I wasn't exspecting to see this here.

I run www.widebando2.com. Please send me an im, email, or even give me a call if you're interested in FJO products.

My self and many others have found FJO monitors to be very reliable and accurate.