So I'm looking to replace my worn out mounts..

I'm considering the following:
•Xcessive motor mounts which they offer 80a or 65a durometer.
•Banzai racing street mounts 90a durometer
•IRP mounts which he offers soft or hard material
•Or possibly the himni updated mounts (waiting to hear back on what durometer is used)

Just wanting to hear some feedback on how you liked the following mounts I listed.

They will be going on my single turbo rx7 fd street car. I do have a twin disc clutch/light flywheel as well. Looking for something that feels good for daily driving.
Thanks

 

FFE has a very nice set. I'd go good condition OEM or FFE personally.

 

I bought some IRP Street mounts for my FD recently and have no complaints. Definitely not harsh or anything like that.

Polyurethane Motor Mounts | IRPerformance

Don't forget you're also gonna need one steel motor mount arm. Our cars came with one steel and one aluminum. The aluminum one doesn't get reused, so you'll need to source a steel arm. I found a clean used one for here for like 40 bucks IIRC.

It's not only IRP, most aftermarket MM manufacturers will tell you to get another steel arm.

 

FFE looks nice but very pricey. Banzai and IRP look to be about the same design and priced similarly with shipping. Can't go wrong with either one. Just need two steel arms.

 

Mine have a pressed in steel insert to prevent overcompression and the additional bushing under the subframe to further isolate vibration.

 

I really like the design of the FFE ones.

If that is too much $$ the Xcessive mounts also isolate the motor from subframe (which the others do not as they have a through bolt) while offering strength and are just $189.

I have the el cheapo poly puck style on my FD from when I bought it and the vibration was bad and unbearable with the AC on (shakes dash). I actually bought new stock mounts to put in (makes FFE seem a bargain $$).

 

The xcessive mounts look pretty slick. They may even work with my setup because I have the RE upper and lower and it is taller than the rew setup. I had to trim my pucks to have clearance for the hood.

 

Oh, talk to them about that.

It sounds like Xcessive have two different height ones for the difference between steel and aluminum arm or something.

They could get you set-up with the lowest combination of arms and mounts (like steel arms for both and the mounts for aluminum arms for both).

 

Where you really feel the poly mounts is stop and go traffic and when the A/C compressor cycles. IMO if your vehicle is driven like that (like a "normal car") then you want OEM mounts. You just gotta pay up.

 

I'm with arghx. OEM is really the way to go if it's a street car.

I remember installing solid aluminum motor mounts on an FD I used to own... because, race car. Wow. I needed to replace a few fillings after driving for a bit.

 

Is there a way to make OEM last? Seems like the failure rate was kind of high...and early. But maybe that was just with the aluminum arms.

 

I went with IRP mounts and replaced the aluminum arm with another steel arm and it feels amazing. No more motor movement and stiffens the drivetrain. Don't forget to replace the diff mounts.

 

Too bad Noltec mounts are NLA, they were apparently a great set for daily driving, just had to make sure they are shielded properly from the heat so they don't melt.

Vibra-techics is a newer-ish product...its also not a single bolt through puck design (like the Noltecs)...so should isolate vibrations well...kind-of pricey though

 

Not really. They are too soft for the application, especially on modified cars. There is also not physical bolt boing through the mount. It has 2 studs the rubber is cast around. Over time the engine torqueing against them and the heat pulls them apart. The passenger side one does seem to last longer though.

 

OEM mounts are hydraulic (oil filled). The aluminum arm mount fails at a ridiculously high rate, I have had cars in the shop with less than 30K miles with no mods that have a separated aluminum mount. Mazda replaced it with the steel arm mount in 95, which made the actual motor mount replaceable. These still fail, but instead of separating from the arm, they split in the middle, oozing all the oil out. Basically they collapse, which is a very common problem even now on the RX8.

The OEM diff mounts are also oil filled.

 

They are/were. Virtually no difference in nvh from my stock mounts. But control movement really well. Not sure what you consider proper shielding though. Mine have been in for about 10 years with nothing special.

 

FYI mine are approximately 60A/80A shore ratings.

 

There are the Mazda Competition engine mounts that are made of 40% stiffer rubber.

f128-39-040- Right side
f128-39-050- Left side

http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/pdfs.../97CatComp.pdf

 

Hard to objectively state "best" aftermarket mounts w/o trying all that's out there with no other variables. All I can provide is my experience with the xcessive mounts, and only on their fitment (below) because I've made substantial suspension mods so it's impossible to comment solely on the engine mounts.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...nment-1085345/

 

I have the same "problem" myself. Car is a 94 with 35k original miles, and is pretty much untouched. But i got driveline slack, and after doing the Diff mounts, i guess engine mounts are next. But the OEM ones are expensive, and if i read this correct, prone to failure.

What Aftermarket stuff can i get that is as close as possible to the OEM softness? And where can i source the other steel mount?

 

An easy improvement that really helps driveline slop with no other mods is the Banzai transmission brace (the one with a bushing). I installed that before making any other changes (still completely stock at the time) and it really seemed to tighten up the driveline.

 

I have the banzai street mounts which work well, minimum vibrations.

 

Our Transmission Crossmember takes a lot of strain off the motor mounts as well as the diff mounts and PPF. It drastically reduces drivetrain movement without any increase in vibration.

Transmission Crossmember

 

This is one of the few parts out there that *every* FD owner should consider installing, along with a downpipe and aluminum AST

 

The Mazda competition motor mounts are over 800 dollars