I also just put in the Banzai street mounts and they made a huge difference compared to my old, worn OEM mounts (as one would expect...)

Shifting is way more precise and I don't really feel like there is more vibration compared to my other FD with newer OEM mounts. Had both steel arms so no need to change arms.

 

This bolt up without any modifications? Cant remember if the holes used (looking at the pictures) are there from factory or if i have to drill and tap stuff?

 

Direct bolt on.

Transmission Brace Installation Instructions

 

By proper shielding I meant using the stock heat shield...I remember someone installed the Noltecs without the stock heat shield...and the PS mount melted from the exhaust heat, then a few years later once again I saw a partially melted Noltec mount...probably from the same reason. Its good to hear that yours have been good for 10 years, makes me very happy. I have a set of brand new never installed Noltecs

 

Well, leaving off the turbo heat shielding is just stupid. I'm surprised that whoever it was took time out from picking and eating to post up what he'd done. Mine are still fine.

 

I see it all the time, along with open wastegates dumping directly on the mount and the side of the oil pan. Never ceases to amaze me.

 

Can't go wrong with the banzai STREET mounts or the IRP mounts. I had vibration between 1500-1900 rpm with the regular Banzai mounts. It that's gone since I installed the retrofit kit. The only vibration I have now is at idle with the AC compressor on. Once I upped the RPM to a slightly higher idle, it's more bearable though. It's not like brain jarring or anything, but you can tell the motor mounts are stiffer. I think OEM would last in an OEM application with the stock shielding and if you can keep oil off of them (fix your pan leaks!). The IRP ones are definitely softer than the Banzai ones. But again, can't go wrong with either.

Matt

 

I had a minor fitment issue with the stock secondary air pipe where it attaches to the transmission. I had to grind down the mounting tab for the air pipe to get it to clear the Banzai brace. It's not a big deal but it's not exactly 100% bolt on either (if you have the air pipe).

 

That is not what I would call a "fitment issue", however I will amend my statement and the installation instructions. Our Crossmember is 99.99% a direct bolt-in on an emissions equipped car, that has a split air pipe.

The split air pipe mounting tab needs to be trimmed if the car is equipped.

On vehicles that have the split air pipe removed, the Crossmember is 100% bolt-on.

We even include mounting points for the factory trans underbelly tray.

 

Good to know The brace is on my ever growing list of "must-do" mods

Anyone got some experience with this manufacturer? Rhs Engine Mounting - Vibra-Technics Compliance Technology

 

^ fd:uk is the website with the UK's primary (FD) rx-7 forum. I'd check in over there for a more accurate review of that company. Most Americans are less likely to purchase items from the UK simply because of taxes and shipping fees.

I was a member of FDUK for several years while I was stationed over there, all in all the members there are very friendly and patient, so you'll likely get a decent reception (we're pretty much all ******** here on the 7club in comparison to the guys over there )

 

Thanks for the tip! I have an account there, but didn't think about asking them

 

No complaints here with steel mount arms, and ebay aluminum mounts with lowes bolts. Love the solid feel, vibration just isn't bad on rotaries. If you really need something smooth, the banzai's poly mounts feel great.

 

That's interesting because I have OEM mounts at the moment and have an aluminum and a steel arm so I need to source a steel arm.

It's a 99 spec car and I have the softer 60A IRP mounts that I need to have installed at some point.

 

So, the general idea here is that i need two steel arms right? Why?
Also, if i am to buy one of them used, how do i recognize the steel arms? are they the brown/black ones?

 

The aluminum arm is apparent by the color. It also has a dome of material at the end where the stock arm was attached. The left side steel arm doesn't have that. That dome can be machined off and drilled for MOST aftermarket mounts, but it's usually just easier to get a second steel arm.

For pictures of both go to Banzai's site. http://www.banzai-racing.com/store/F...or_mounts.html

 

I ended up getting ir performance track motor mounts. They feel nice , slight vibration but nothing too bad. My drive train seems to still make a clunking sound so thinking my diff bushings are shot

 

Ffe has a nice set with softer mounts for street applications.

 

^ Yeah, I mentioned theirs earlier on in the thread, however I guess people don't want "best" they want "cheaper aftermarket" since my suggestion was quickly shot down and ignored due to cost.

 

The aluminium one the mount is a "one piece"
With the bracket.

I have never seen yet a good aluminium mount,
They're all old and crap and is also a S6 thing...

 

I have only seen the rubber mount become un-vulcanized from the Aluminum mounts, I haven't seen an Aluminum mount sheer through the metal.

Anyone else?

I say this because the racing class I am in allows two configurations.

1) 100% stock engine mounts (supersession parts allowed) and a torque arm brace.

2) Aftermarket engine mounts.

I am thinking of using two stock Aluminum mounts with aftermarket bushings (leaning toward XS style) for weight savings and low cost. This is for 400rwhp or under application.

The alternative is 100% stock mounts (which I have already purchased and they are both steel now with the supersession part) and a single point mounted torque arm.

So, the weight savings is actually pretty substantial with option 2) Aftermarket engine mounts.