Best aftermarket motor mounts for street car?
05-10-17, 06:45 PM
#26
I also just put in the Banzai street mounts and they made a huge difference compared to my old, worn OEM mounts (as one would expect...)
Shifting is way more precise and I don't really feel like there is more vibration compared to my other FD with newer OEM mounts. Had both steel arms so no need to change arms.
Shifting is way more precise and I don't really feel like there is more vibration compared to my other FD with newer OEM mounts. Had both steel arms so no need to change arms.
05-11-17, 01:13 AM
#27
Our Transmission Crossmember takes a lot of strain off the motor mounts as well as the diff mounts and PPF. It drastically reduces drivetrain movement without any increase in vibration.
Transmission Crossmember
Transmission Crossmember
05-11-17, 05:48 AM
#28
05-11-17, 08:48 AM
#29
05-11-17, 09:05 AM
#30
By proper shielding I meant using the stock heat shield...I remember someone installed the Noltecs without the stock heat shield...and the PS mount melted from the exhaust heat, then a few years later once again I saw a partially melted Noltec mount...probably from the same reason....
05-11-17, 11:09 AM
#32
Can't go wrong with the banzai STREET mounts or the IRP mounts. I had vibration between 1500-1900 rpm with the regular Banzai mounts. It that's gone since I installed the retrofit kit. The only vibration I have now is at idle with the AC compressor on. Once I upped the RPM to a slightly higher idle, it's more bearable though. It's not like brain jarring or anything, but you can tell the motor mounts are stiffer. I think OEM would last in an OEM application with the stock shielding and if you can keep oil off of them (fix your pan leaks!). The IRP ones are definitely softer than the Banzai ones. But again, can't go wrong with either.
Matt
Matt
05-11-17, 12:34 PM
#33
05-11-17, 01:50 PM
#34
That is not what I would call a "fitment issue", however I will amend my statement and the installation instructions. Our Crossmember is 99.99% a direct bolt-in on an emissions equipped car, that has a split air pipe.
The split air pipe mounting tab needs to be trimmed if the car is equipped.
On vehicles that have the split air pipe removed, the Crossmember is 100% bolt-on.
We even include mounting points for the factory trans underbelly tray.
The split air pipe mounting tab needs to be trimmed if the car is equipped.
On vehicles that have the split air pipe removed, the Crossmember is 100% bolt-on.
We even include mounting points for the factory trans underbelly tray.
Last edited by Banzai-Racing; 05-11-17 at 04:00 PM.
05-12-17, 12:59 AM
#35
Good to know 
The brace is on my ever growing list of "must-do" mods
Anyone got some experience with this manufacturer? Rhs Engine Mounting - Vibra-Technics Compliance Technology
The brace is on my ever growing list of "must-do" modsAnyone got some experience with this manufacturer? Rhs Engine Mounting - Vibra-Technics Compliance Technology
Last edited by Zepticon; 05-12-17 at 02:03 AM.
05-12-17, 07:34 AM
#36
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
^ fd:uk is the website with the UK's primary (FD) rx-7 forum. I'd check in over there for a more accurate review of that company. Most Americans are less likely to purchase items from the UK simply because of taxes and shipping fees.
I was a member of FDUK for several years while I was stationed over there, all in all the members there are very friendly and patient, so you'll likely get a decent reception (we're pretty much all ******** here on the 7club in comparison to the guys over there 
)
I was a member of FDUK for several years while I was stationed over there, all in all the members there are very friendly and patient, so you'll likely get a decent reception
(we're pretty much all ******** here on the 7club in comparison to the guys over there )
05-19-17, 12:03 PM
#39
OEM mounts are hydraulic (oil filled). The aluminum arm mount fails at a ridiculously high rate, I have had cars in the shop with less than 30K miles with no mods that have a separated aluminum mount. Mazda replaced it with the steel arm mount in 95, which made the actual motor mount replaceable. These still fail, but instead of separating from the arm, they split in the middle, oozing all the oil out. Basically they collapse, which is a very common problem even now on the RX8.
The OEM diff mounts are also oil filled.
The OEM diff mounts are also oil filled.
It's a 99 spec car and I have the softer 60A IRP mounts that I need to have installed at some point.
05-23-17, 06:43 AM
#41
The aluminum arm is apparent by the color. It also has a dome of material at the end where the stock arm was attached. The left side steel arm doesn't have that. That dome can be machined off and drilled for MOST aftermarket mounts, but it's usually just easier to get a second steel arm.
For pictures of both go to Banzai's site. http://www.banzai-racing.com/store/F...or_mounts.html
For pictures of both go to Banzai's site. http://www.banzai-racing.com/store/F...or_mounts.html
Last edited by Sgtblue; 05-23-17 at 06:46 AM.
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TG888 (06-21-20)
05-24-17, 09:39 AM
#44
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
^ Yeah, I mentioned theirs earlier on in the thread, however I guess people don't want "best" they want "cheaper aftermarket" since my suggestion was quickly shot down and ignored due to cost. 
05-24-17, 04:45 PM
#46
I have only seen the rubber mount become un-vulcanized from the Aluminum mounts, I haven't seen an Aluminum mount sheer through the metal.
Anyone else?
I say this because the racing class I am in allows two configurations.
1) 100% stock engine mounts (supersession parts allowed) and a torque arm brace.
2) Aftermarket engine mounts.
I am thinking of using two stock Aluminum mounts with aftermarket bushings (leaning toward XS style) for weight savings and low cost. This is for 400rwhp or under application.
The alternative is 100% stock mounts (which I have already purchased and they are both steel now with the supersession part) and a single point mounted torque arm.
So, the weight savings is actually pretty substantial with option 2) Aftermarket engine mounts.
Anyone else?
I say this because the racing class I am in allows two configurations.
1) 100% stock engine mounts (supersession parts allowed) and a torque arm brace.
2) Aftermarket engine mounts.
I am thinking of using two stock Aluminum mounts with aftermarket bushings (leaning toward XS style) for weight savings and low cost. This is for 400rwhp or under application.
The alternative is 100% stock mounts (which I have already purchased and they are both steel now with the supersession part) and a single point mounted torque arm.
So, the weight savings is actually pretty substantial with option 2) Aftermarket engine mounts.
