Hey everyone. I was wondering. . . . if a car was in a minor fender bender. . . but the fender bender turned out to be larger than originally inspected, and not completely repaired by the body shop. . . . would the car ever handle the same? I can't go after the body shop, bc it was over 4 years ago, so i can't have them repair it (coincidentally, their out of business to boot).

Please take a look at the pic, the damage is on the drivers side. this is a pic i was able to find, that shows the extent of the damage. See how it sorta. . . droops down. . like a sad FD. . . on the drivers side? Even the fenders don't sit completely parallel on it (we fitting the fenders on my friend's FD, and they sit completely perfect):



Originally, I didn't think that, that small amount of damage was that bad. When it had the stock skin on it, the parts. . . "fit" . . . there were a few small things, but it worked. Then when we went in, and put in solid motor mounts, braces, etc, that's when the true nature of it came to light. Going under the bottom of the car, my guy told me it seems it was crimped a little, and wasn't sure if repairing it would be the best idea for an all out track car (for safety and handling purposes).

My main question, is not about cost or anything. . . but do you think it wise that I try to have a body shop put the car on a frame straightener, and fix that. . . . Being that i plan on tracking the hell out of the car? Do you think there would be any risk, when putting the car at the limit with a repaired, but previously tweaked frame. . .?

Also, would it be a better idea, if i just get rid of the actual chassis, and buy a roller, with a straight frame? I've driven cars that were "fixed" by repair shops. . . and none of them felt the same as a stock car (especially with the FD, it seems to amplify flaws). I don't have a problem chunking this one, and moving all the parts over to a new FD if the cost to repair is = to the cost of a roller.

I really, really. . .really appreciate your guys time for reading this, and any response/insight you can give.

Kindest Regards,
Chris-

 

I'm no expert and I can't tell much from the picture. However, if the damage doesn't effect the geometry of the suspension overall, then it shouldn't directly affect handling. However, it may be an aesthetic eye sore if you can't get the body panels to perfectly line up.

 

Function/Form . . . . good thing i don't have 20/20 vision anymore

The coilovers, brakes, everything in that area fits perfectly. However, inner fender braces don't, the R1 strut tower brace isn't a perfect fit. . . and the front drivers side front end rubs the tire while still (like when pushing the car from the garage to the driveway for various reasons), and yet the passenger side is completely fine.

 

Since we've already discussed this on the phone... I provide for you in your thread of woe amusement.

(9:57:20 AM) Dave: BAW HAW HAW HAW (You don't know it, but this message involves gay sex)

 

I don't have them, but there are measurements to use for collision repair. I have a buddy who owns a shop and does it for a living (he buys wrecked cars like M3's, repairs them and sells them for a profit). I had asked him how he knows how to repair every car, and he just said they all have measurements. I know it's a little more complicated than that, but that was what I was referring to with the geometry of the car. If the wheel on that side is rubbing, then it sounds like something is off with the repair (all things equal that is).

 

This might help. There is a collision manual for the FD on wrex-racing. Here http://www.wrex-racing.com/docs/fd/r...on _repair.pdf

 

that is without a doubt one of the coolest posts on this forum!!

 

As far as safety goes, there should not be any issues as long as everything is where it is supposed to be, e.g. no crimped fuel or brake lines and the suspension monts and moves as it should. If it is going to be a track car, I would use that frame instead of distroying a perfectly good one.

 

+1

 

+2

 

a good frame puller can put a car back to darn near factory specs. you might just want to show it to one and see what they recommend. I've driven lots of cars with pulled frames (as in fixed) and you would never know it.

 

My track car was in a wreck before i bought it with frame damage. I had it pulled. Thats why its a track car. =)

 

I currently repairing my FD, I got heavily hit on passenger door, moving the whole front of the door by 1 foot inside. I personally did the frame work on it and I came out fine so far. I don’t know about how it will perform on the road since I never was ably to drive it (bought it wrecked). And my damage is nothing compare to yours.
From your damage, first thing you need to worry about is ALIGNMENT.
I have being dealing with frame problem vehicles for a wile. If frame is not right, then you will have alignment issues, Such as vehicle pulls or tire issues.

 

I have extra frame rails if you need them. Take to a body shop you will be surprised. There are no off measurements at 100+ IMO ~ I salvaged mine but because she had 46k on the chassis so there was no deliberation. Either way it's one last Gem for the road and one more closer to extinction. Rx7's are a dying breed of car and I feel very passionately about trying to "save" them.

 

From the pic that is absolutely not frame damage. The headlight bucket is bent down a bit. It is very flimsy and could probably be bent back pretty easily.

If you think there is any damage to the frame, take a picture of the rails. Either way it is a light hit, the car can be repaired and be a safe track car.

 

I disagree depending on where the frame is bent it could effect overall safety. At lower speed collisions the effects would be minimal but at higher speed collisions you are dealing with metal that has already been fatigued and stretched out from its original form. handling may not be affected but safety would be my number one worry. This is totally dependent on where the frame is bent if it is something like the headlight bucket its fine but structural frame areas? I'd at least have them reinforced if your track allows it. But if you put a full cage then no worries lol. After all if it is a track car it's probably gonna get in a wreck eventually.

 

Spend the $$ and pu it on a chassis machine, mine was 8mm back on the right hand side but they pulled it it and it came right. Just waiting to hear back from the certifier whether or not I have to replace the complete chassis rail!

 

Sorry to threadjack but I have a similar question, turbojeff please check PM's.






Sonny

 

My frame/chassis is sleighty damaged due to an accident, but doesn't affect anything at all. The only thing that you can notice is a screw missing ona brace under the car that attaches to the chassis..