Before installing the Greddy Elbow...
#1
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Before installing the Greddy Elbow...
before I install the Greddy elbow I have one question.. Where does the hose that connects to the OEM plastic elbow go after the install? Does it get plugged up or what? What are the ramifications of this?
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just plug it up. It is responsible for the high idle during startup. So there's no problems with plugging it up. You can also eliminate it with block off plates if you want.
http://www.maxcooper.com/rx7/parts_info/ic/index.html
here's maxcoopers' write up of his experience. It's near the bottom.
David
http://www.maxcooper.com/rx7/parts_info/ic/index.html
here's maxcoopers' write up of his experience. It's near the bottom.
David
#3
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It's an air bypass hose for the Accelerated Warm up System. (AWS) It's the reason you car rev's to 3K on cold start up.
Disconnect the hose at the valve & install a large rubber plug on the valve nipple.
If you want added clearance under the upper intake, you can completely remove the valve & install a cover plate over the mount. I went this route to give the vacuum lines more room to prevent kinking. You can remove the studs & install short bolts in the holes to secure it.
In order to eliminate the possibility of a check engine light I mounted one leg of the AWS valve on the bellhousing, near the fuel pressure regulator, the connector has enough wire to reach.
Disconnect the hose at the valve & install a large rubber plug on the valve nipple.
If you want added clearance under the upper intake, you can completely remove the valve & install a cover plate over the mount. I went this route to give the vacuum lines more room to prevent kinking. You can remove the studs & install short bolts in the holes to secure it.
In order to eliminate the possibility of a check engine light I mounted one leg of the AWS valve on the bellhousing, near the fuel pressure regulator, the connector has enough wire to reach.
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It is still on there and I haven't seen any more oil, so I am reasonably
pleased with the result. However, the car stalled this morning right
after I started it (which it has never done before, and it was not even
cold out), so I am left to question whether the AWS may be present for
more than just emissions purposes. Also, I read a post in the last day
or two about what RPM the engine would idle at with the AWS plugged. The
report included mention of the engine stalling after the first start.
pleased with the result. However, the car stalled this morning right
after I started it (which it has never done before, and it was not even
cold out), so I am left to question whether the AWS may be present for
more than just emissions purposes. Also, I read a post in the last day
or two about what RPM the engine would idle at with the AWS plugged. The
report included mention of the engine stalling after the first start.
#7
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I don't have a greddy elbow yet....but I have elminated it and the car idles fine. I think putting a plug on there should be the same. I have power FC though...maybe that's why it is smooth?
and no you don't need aftermarket intercooler for it. The greddy elbow just gives you more options for plumbing the intercooler piping since it is shorter so you have more possibities when running custom piping. And it is shiny.
David
and no you don't need aftermarket intercooler for it. The greddy elbow just gives you more options for plumbing the intercooler piping since it is shorter so you have more possibities when running custom piping. And it is shiny.
David
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Did you people actually read Max's comments? It clearly states that he replumbed the AWS to the Greddy intake elbow by having a nipple welded to the elbow.
When I eventually upgrade to the Greddy elbow, I certainly plan on doing the same.
When I eventually upgrade to the Greddy elbow, I certainly plan on doing the same.
#9
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yes....but that doesn't mean it's the best route! I think you should just get rid of the AWS all together! they put it there for cold start emissions. AWS is not even on the JDM cars. I don't like the fact that my engine revs up to 3k when it is cold!
David
David
#10
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Originally posted by rynberg
Did you people actually read Max's comments? It clearly states that he replumbed the AWS to the Greddy intake elbow by having a nipple welded to the elbow.
When I eventually upgrade to the Greddy elbow, I certainly plan on doing the same.
Did you people actually read Max's comments? It clearly states that he replumbed the AWS to the Greddy intake elbow by having a nipple welded to the elbow.
When I eventually upgrade to the Greddy elbow, I certainly plan on doing the same.
#11
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I got a screw type bung from the autoparts store. Took the elbow to a machine shop and had it drilled and tapped. Screw the bung in and voila, just like OEM.
#12
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If you buy a Jspec upper manifold they do not even have the AWS valve so there is nothing to block off. Probably why the Greddy elbow does not come with the nipple in the first place.
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of course! I do that when I had the AWS, but I got the block off plates to get rid of the double throttle so I just got rid of the AWS all togehter AWS is not a necessary component, it's just to warm up the precat so it can get to work. In my opinion...eliminate it.
David
David
#17
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Where are ppl getting these block off plates? I’m going to do the turbo simplification and the more that I’m learning about it, block off plates are required. Someone mentioned a block off plate kit. WTF is that and where can I get it. The AWS is eliminated doing this mod...so I gather.....
Man I’m lost.
Argh this is frustrating....I can’t seem to put all the little specs and spots of info that I need together b/c it’s always different. It’s spread out through 1000 web pages, 1 billion threads. (Yeah try doing a search and see what YOU come up with) And dealing with different things...and no one really ever gives info aside from ACV, EGR, DT, AWS, TB coolant line, and Fast Idle cam, block off plates and other things assuming that we all know WTF those things are, WTF were doing and where those things are or where we can get them....... AHHHHHHHHH...I’m losing it. Yes I’ve looked at the shop book, but I’ve never really read anything like that before, some things are named diff then what ppl say they are so I’m lost there.... 1470 on the S.A.T's don’t mean crap...I’m a dumbass.....I seem to have a total mental block on this....
I'm sorry this was not directed at anyone, I'm just getting frustrated that I can't put all the peices together...
Man I’m lost.
Argh this is frustrating....I can’t seem to put all the little specs and spots of info that I need together b/c it’s always different. It’s spread out through 1000 web pages, 1 billion threads. (Yeah try doing a search and see what YOU come up with) And dealing with different things...and no one really ever gives info aside from ACV, EGR, DT, AWS, TB coolant line, and Fast Idle cam, block off plates and other things assuming that we all know WTF those things are, WTF were doing and where those things are or where we can get them....... AHHHHHHHHH...I’m losing it. Yes I’ve looked at the shop book, but I’ve never really read anything like that before, some things are named diff then what ppl say they are so I’m lost there.... 1470 on the S.A.T's don’t mean crap...I’m a dumbass.....I seem to have a total mental block on this....
I'm sorry this was not directed at anyone, I'm just getting frustrated that I can't put all the peices together...
#18
I made block off plates for the AWS solenoid (which the Japanese FD doesn't even have) and a block off plate for the piping for the elbow that's also under the UIM.
The PFC was meant for a Japanese FD so it completely ignores that anyway.
So the computer doesn't switch it on or off and it's blocked off and out of my way.
I couldn't be happier.
The PFC was meant for a Japanese FD so it completely ignores that anyway.
So the computer doesn't switch it on or off and it's blocked off and out of my way.
I couldn't be happier.
#19
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ok, when you remove the piping, is there anything else you can remove with it?
I don't have a pic of under the manifold but is there anything else we can remove, other than the metal tubing?
thanks
puma
I don't have a pic of under the manifold but is there anything else we can remove, other than the metal tubing?
thanks
puma
#20
Mine is still plugged. I moved to California and it never stalled again, so I felt no need to replumb it.
Vented = total mess if you track the car, perhaps a mess anyway
Plugged = easy, may cause stalling in cold climates
Re-plumbed = prevents stalling in cold climates
There you have it! The idle is still high on start-up even with the thing plugged. Except it is only 2000-2500 rather than 3000.
I recommend plugging it and seeing if you gat stalling. If not, leave it as-is. If it does stall, replumb it.
-Max
Vented = total mess if you track the car, perhaps a mess anyway
Plugged = easy, may cause stalling in cold climates
Re-plumbed = prevents stalling in cold climates
There you have it! The idle is still high on start-up even with the thing plugged. Except it is only 2000-2500 rather than 3000.
I recommend plugging it and seeing if you gat stalling. If not, leave it as-is. If it does stall, replumb it.
-Max
#21
mine is vented and i rearly see any oil. Only in the hose itself, but not much in the engine bay. And I usually clean my engine bay every month to 2 months, but not for oil on the firewall.
#22
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I figure since I'll be in warm climates no matter where I go, I'll make some block off plates. I'm sure there's some prefag kits out there, but I really don't feel like spending a couple hundred on something I can laser cut myself..
#23
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Get your block off plates at the rx7store~
http://www.rx7store.net/engine1.htm
near the bottom.
David
http://www.rx7store.net/engine1.htm
near the bottom.
David