been stitting for couple ...
been stitting for couple ...
well i have a chance picking up a 93 rx7 thats been sitting in the yard for couple years ... if i simply change oil and coolant , of cuz i will get a new battery will it be ok back on the road ? any concerns that you guys can think of ?
Once you get it running, it may help to run a bunch of water into the intake to give it a good internal steam cleaning. Change the fuel filter. Also might be good to send the injectors out for cleaning when you get the chance.
Dave
Dave
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Once you get it running, it may help to run a bunch of water into the intake to give it a good internal steam cleaning. Change the fuel filter. Also might be good to send the injectors out for cleaning when you get the chance.
Dave
Dave
Run a vacuum line from a nipple on the UIM ( like the one that runs to your boost gauge or EBC) into a jug of water. Start the car and suck in about 2 quarts. BE CAREFULL, the exhaust will get very hot. Def. put some kind of barrier between the muffler and the valance on the rear bumper. I used a piece of high temp insulation cloth called Kaowool. Its possible to melt that valance if not protected from the heat.
Trending Topics
ok i read about the water treatment. So my question is what are the chances of a carbon deposit breaking an apex seal or something else. (ie. percentage wise). Would love to hear more about this treatment.
Originally Posted by ahwest
well i have a chance picking up a 93 rx7 thats been sitting in the yard for couple years ... if i simply change oil and coolant , of cuz i will get a new battery will it be ok back on the road ? any concerns that you guys can think of ?
One thing everyone seems to over look when changing the fluids is the fuel, when a car sits the fuel tank picks up lots of moisture and the fuel itself goes bad, if you try and get it to start on what's in it you'll just have further problems down the road with all the crap your going to put into the fuel system.
Originally Posted by EZFD
check to see if it has been started from time to time while it was sitting. If it sat for a couple years without running there is a chance of stuck corner and side seals.
Don't forget to replace the fluids from the radiator and have the radiator examined. The radiators on FDs are an aluminum core with plastic ends. So if water sits in there for a long enough period of time, or even hasn't been properly serviced, the plastic ends will eventually deteriorate. Also, check the water pump, that could go bad from water sitting in there and will cause problems down the road. Ditto the radiator hoses.
Last edited by YayoFD; Jun 29, 2006 at 04:26 PM.
Well, if you could get it somewhere where you could work on it, you could just drop the gas tank and physically dump out all the old gas... This is all assuming everything else is good on the car. Hell, could just hook up a jump box or good battery and give it a try.
there is a fuel drain plug on the bottom of the tank. you need to replace fuel fiter, and blow out the lines! put some atf in the traling plug holes as this will help with compresion on dry engine plus lube it. about 4 oz atf. hot battery and drain block of antifreze drain is middle and low on the drivers side just above oil pan. plus rad. if it starts change oil soon as you can mouister builds up setting. good luck!!
ATF = automatic transmission fluid. It lubes the engine without making it hard to start, and smokes like mad until it's all burnt off.
The trailing plugs are the ones on top. Top = trailing, Lower = Leading.
I have not done the steam cleaning trick myself, only wanted to alert you that the technique exists. You might uncover more about it by searching in the 2nd gen or 1st gen forums.
Dave
The trailing plugs are the ones on top. Top = trailing, Lower = Leading.
I have not done the steam cleaning trick myself, only wanted to alert you that the technique exists. You might uncover more about it by searching in the 2nd gen or 1st gen forums.
Dave
sorry i should have said leading plugs. the traling plug has very small spark plug hole on the inside and will be hard to get atf on the rotors. i use a flexable tube and squese bottle to get atf in plug holes. good luck. Ps if you buy this fd you will probley be wise to price it as a non running car that needs rebuilt. if you get it running all the better for you.
sth wrong?
ok i got the car back today and i was trying to start it ... i did the unflood procedure for a while then i added some ATF to the leading plugs ... spun it and heard compressed air coming out from the engine ... oh well i kept on doing the unflood procedure and sometimes it DID want to start that i heard some bogging sound and the tach was moving ... once it started up and stepped on the gas pedal it revved to 3k+ rpm however i gotta shut the engine down since it smoked a lot and my frd is painting a car in the body shop so anyways i need to shut the car off ... later i attempted to start it again and it seemed like it didnt want to start ... well i guess i will get some new spark plugs tomorow and give it a try ... i have a question is that where is the EGI fuse ? i know its near the battery but there are two fues box and i lost both of the fuse box cover =( ... can someone please tell me which one is the EGI fuse ... a pic would be helpful ...
anyways any more thoughts on how to get the engine starts ? oh btw there are smoke coming out from the UIM area when i kept on cranking it ... is it normal ?
anyways any more thoughts on how to get the engine starts ? oh btw there are smoke coming out from the UIM area when i kept on cranking it ... is it normal ?
One of the worst things for these motors is a short run period. You should (if at all possible) only start these cars when you can bring it to operating temperature. Here the car has been sitting for a long period of time and you only ran it briefly.....not good wait till you can start it and let it run long enough to both reach operating temperature and quit smoking.




