Fairly simple question really...

Have had a couple of problems with my FD not starting due to the battery not having enough charge. Initially I thought it was a knackered battery - also due to being a bit old - decided to get a new one. That's been running great until this morning...wouldn't turn over fast enough for the engine to fire. Jumping didn't get it going either... :-(

Will probably take the battery off tonight and do a slow charge to top it up, but was wondering if it's worth switching my EBC to a switched supply instead of unswitched? My EBC is a Greddy Profec S so it doesn't store it's own settings using power, just has the dials, so I can't really see a reason to have it powered while the car isn't running. Am sure it uses minimal power when it's off but every little bit helps I guess.

The stereo is already on unswitched so there shouldn't be any drain there. Any other things to reduce the drain...besides the alarm which I obviously want to keep on?

Cheers.

 

man i am getting the same problem i cant figure it out i also have a profec but i have b spec 2

 

Yeah, it's a total pain, am trying to think of as many systems that might drain the battery while the ignition is off to try help the battery keep it's charge as much as possible.

Checked all my grounding points and they seem good, eletrical problems suck.

Is your EBC on a unswitched (always on) supply?

 

dont no i removed it and sold it but battery is dead so hadnt checked since, getting a new battery but when my car was off the ebc was still on now that i think of it!

 

Do you have a fan mod or aftermarket alarm?

 

Yeah, that's how I had mine rigged as it's what the installation instructions said, but when you think about it, I don't really think it needs to be on an unswitched supply as it doesn't need to operate until the ignition is turned on.

 

The alarm is aftermarket yes, although it was fitted for me before I picked it up so I don't know if this went on before the alarm was in there. When I say went on this is only the second time it's happens, plus I use the FD as a daily driver so it never gets left for long standing. If I go away for a few days I disconnect the battery negative.

Don't have a fan mod. I do have a Billion Multi Gauge that links into the fans so you can set at what temps they come on and go off. It also reads voltage on the battery too. The gauge goes off when the ignition is switched off, so I don't think it would drain the battery...in theory that is. Again that's been on the car since I've had it (over a year).

 

Two ideas:

Turn off your fan mod/gauge/thing when you leave the car. Sometimes they stay grounded, and cause the battery to drain.

If you have an aftermarket alarm, many times they are connected to a hood switch. This means that your hood alarm switch may be transmitting a signal if you leave the hood open (to let the engine cool). This will also drain your battery.

Hope this helps, Adam

 

My battery slowly drains as well.. after a couple days my battery is gone.. no fan mod, no alarm.. have greddy boost controller, relocated battery, haltech.. pretty much it... dont know why its draining.. I have to detach the negative cable everytime i let it sit.. pain..

 

This is a really obvious thing, but...

Are you sure no lights (interior, hatch, glove-box, etc.) are staying on after doors are shut?

 

Any of you guys with the slow drain issue know what your charge volage is ? ? ? I mean do you know the alternator is putting out enough to even charge the battery. Lately my car sits for 2 to 3 weeks at a time and I'm running the punny 51R civic battery. I sometimes forget and leave my fan mod switch on (supposedly acts like a small wattage light) and still don't have issues with it getting too weak to start the car. Check your grounds and make sure there making good contact as this will inhibit a good charge from the alt. as well as other gremlins. Jack

 

Will have to check the instruction booklet I got with the car about the fan/voltage gauge to see what connections it makes. Whenever the iginition is off this gauge goes off too, all the fans stop etc. It's either on with the car running or not at all.

I haven't left the bonnet (hood) open recently as it's quite cold here at the moment plus not really parked in places where I've had the chance. There is a connection to the bonnet however.

 

Was thinking about this earlier, I've got some nice Splitfire grounding cables in the engine bay, so I'll have a route around and make sure all the connections are where they are supposed to be.

 

Yeah, had a quick look for things like this, everything goes out like it should.

 

use a voltmeter to test for dark current...You can see if there is something there pulling a lot of power or if somethings not charging...

 

What do you mean by "dark current"?

 

I assume the way to test this would be to run the car and just put a volt meter across the alternative?

 

I believe you check for this with absolutely everything off, that can be turned off. Things like the radio, alarm, perhaps the ECU, that use power for memorey should be the only things drawing current and it should be minimal. So if you set your meter to DC amperage and un hook you pos (or negative) as your interested in the current flow through the battery. Hook yourpositive lead of the meter to the positive lead of the cable (remember the postive lead is not connected to the battery) now hook the negative lead of the meter to the positve terminal of the battery (may be a slight spark as you'll have some current for the above mentioned items) take a meter reading and I'd say it would probably be less than an amp (not sure since I've never checked) if it it's considerably higher than that you need to find the source of the drain. To do that pull a fuse to a section, check again, don't put that fuse back in, just keep removing fuses till you find the circuict with the load on it. Make sure you note where each fuse goes and what the amperage is supposed to be used.

 

Just put the positive lead of the meter on the positive terminal of the battery and the negative lead on the negative terminal (meter on DC voltage) should give you the volage the alternator is putting out, you can raise the throttle and see if the voltage climbs to at least 14.5 volts min 13.8

 

Thanks for the info CantGoStraight will give that a go tomorrow and see what I get.

 

After you have confirmed your alt is charging with the voltmeter and is ok.

Check for the drain.

Turn car off.

turn off everything (lights, radio, etc...)

disconect a battery lead (does not matter which one)

set your voltmeter/amp meter to read miliAmps

put one lead on car battery the other lead on battery cable. If you get a
negative number switch the leads.

draw should be less than 50miliamps.

now to find your draw.
what ever number you have on your meter watch for it to change as
you take out your fuses one at a time.

If you take out a fuse and the number changes a lot. see what is powered
off that fuse circuit.

If you have some gheto wiring that goes straight to the battery without going through the fuse box I would check that first. then go to the fuse box test.

 

He's got the idea...This is what the FSM says....

This is any current that is being drawn after the key is in the off position--ie radio memory, alarm, etc!

 

Cheers guys.

From what I can tell my wiring is fairly sound, all goes through the fuses as it should and the cable is all pretty good quality stuff.