Auxiliary fan trigger signal
10-28-11, 10:45 AM
#1
Auxiliary fan trigger signal
Added a couple of auxilary fans to my AC condenser to possibly help with my cooling issues because of a front mount intercooler.
I added a relay to run the new fans - where is a good place to tap into for a signal to turn them on?
I considered tapping into one of the power wires on the stock fans but do not want to steal any current from them. Maybe use the signal that runs the stock fan relays?
Where would I find this? Colors / pictures would be great!
Is there a better solution? A solution I think I would like better is to use my fog light switch to just activate the fans when I want (since I do not have fog lights anymore). The wiring for the foglights is in place and terminates in the right area... I only need to make the foglight switch active anytime the car is on - not just when the headlights are on.
.
Yes, I'm electrically challenged somewhat.
I added a relay to run the new fans - where is a good place to tap into for a signal to turn them on?
I considered tapping into one of the power wires on the stock fans but do not want to steal any current from them. Maybe use the signal that runs the stock fan relays?
Where would I find this? Colors / pictures would be great!
Is there a better solution? A solution I think I would like better is to use my fog light switch to just activate the fans when I want (since I do not have fog lights anymore). The wiring for the foglights is in place and terminates in the right area... I only need to make the foglight switch active anytime the car is on - not just when the headlights are on.
.Yes, I'm electrically challenged somewhat.
10-28-11, 12:11 PM
#2
RX-7 Bad Ass
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One of the fan relays is triggered when you turn the AC on. You could use that "on" signal to switch your relay or just use the output from that relay to turn on your fan.
Dale
Dale
10-28-11, 02:04 PM
#5
Wastegate John
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I am not 100% familiar with how the FC/FD thermoswitch operates but you can probably tap into that for your signal.
If you tap into the factory wires that would work as well the relay draws VERY little amperage for the signal wire.
Do you have a FC thermoswitch?
John
If you tap into the factory wires that would work as well the relay draws VERY little amperage for the signal wire.
Do you have a FC thermoswitch?
John
10-28-11, 02:21 PM
#6
I don't think you understood what Dale was saying...
On your pass. fender/shock tower there are 4 relays. Flip them each over to find one/two thin wires and one/two thick wires. The thick wire is what your fan runs off of. And, one of the thin wires is the 12V+ turn on lead for the relay. So....
1) Get a multimeter.
2) Probe the thin wire in each relay and connect the other probe to ground.
3) Turn on your AC while testing each of the thin wires. Once you see a 12V from 0v, that is your AC turn on lead.
4) Splice into that to turn on your new relay.
Also, to clarify, do the factory fog lights not turn on independent? I don't have any experience with them but I do believe Mazda doing something goofy like that. "They are fog lights, if there is fog, then they would have the headlamps on..." :-)
10-28-11, 04:06 PM
#7
Wastegate John
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^ Was that directed at me?
I understood his post, but why would you want to tap into the A/C relay and have to manually control the circuit if the car is getting hot?
If you go to the thermoswitch or the relay that is activated by the thermoswitch that will automatically turn on the fans. You do not have to watch the gauge (commander) as much. One less thing to worry about.
It does make sense to connect to the "High" fan relay, IMO, only if the car starts to overheat with the A/C on. The OP did not say if that was the case. So I looked for a different option that does not require driver intervention.
John
I understood his post, but why would you want to tap into the A/C relay and have to manually control the circuit if the car is getting hot?
If you go to the thermoswitch or the relay that is activated by the thermoswitch that will automatically turn on the fans. You do not have to watch the gauge (commander) as much. One less thing to worry about.
It does make sense to connect to the "High" fan relay, IMO, only if the car starts to overheat with the A/C on. The OP did not say if that was the case. So I looked for a different option that does not require driver intervention.
John
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10-28-11, 05:12 PM
#8
Per the PFC Water temps in hot weather and traffic and no AC on creep to over 100C sometimes. In very hot weather over 105 and sometimes more.
I have a dual oil cooler setup and a Koyo N Flow radiator. I think its my Greddy style knock off intercooler that is overheating the car.
It is my hope that the two 12" pusher fans I added o the AC condenser can help cool the car a little.
10-28-11, 05:20 PM
#9
I don't think you understood what Dale was saying...
On your pass. fender/shock tower there are 4 relays. Flip them each over to find one/two thin wires and one/two thick wires. The thick wire is what your fan runs off of. And, one of the thin wires is the 12V+ turn on lead for the relay. So....
1) Get a multimeter.
2) Probe the thin wire in each relay and connect the other probe to ground.
3) Turn on your AC while testing each of the thin wires. Once you see a 12V from 0v, that is your AC turn on lead.
4) Splice into that to turn on your new relay.
Also, to clarify, do the factory fog lights not turn on independent? I don't have any experience with them but I do believe Mazda doing something goofy like that. "They are fog lights, if there is fog, then they would have the headlamps on..." :-)
On your pass. fender/shock tower there are 4 relays. Flip them each over to find one/two thin wires and one/two thick wires. The thick wire is what your fan runs off of. And, one of the thin wires is the 12V+ turn on lead for the relay. So....
1) Get a multimeter.
2) Probe the thin wire in each relay and connect the other probe to ground.
3) Turn on your AC while testing each of the thin wires. Once you see a 12V from 0v, that is your AC turn on lead.
4) Splice into that to turn on your new relay.
Also, to clarify, do the factory fog lights not turn on independent? I don't have any experience with them but I do believe Mazda doing something goofy like that. "They are fog lights, if there is fog, then they would have the headlamps on..." :-)
I thought the fog light switch would be pretty pimp - I was planning on cutting the power wire at the switch and then splicing in the power wire from a switched accessory like the cigarette lighter instead.
Stock, the fogs lights only work when the low beam headlights are on. They will not work any other time.
10-28-11, 05:23 PM
#10
^ Was that directed at me?
I understood his post, but why would you want to tap into the A/C relay and have to manually control the circuit if the car is getting hot?
If you go to the thermoswitch or the relay that is activated by the thermoswitch that will automatically turn on the fans. You do not have to watch the gauge (commander) as much. One less thing to worry about.
It does make sense to connect to the "High" fan relay, IMO, only if the car starts to overheat with the A/C on. The OP did not say if that was the case. So I looked for a different option that does not require driver intervention.
John
I understood his post, but why would you want to tap into the A/C relay and have to manually control the circuit if the car is getting hot?
If you go to the thermoswitch or the relay that is activated by the thermoswitch that will automatically turn on the fans. You do not have to watch the gauge (commander) as much. One less thing to worry about.
It does make sense to connect to the "High" fan relay, IMO, only if the car starts to overheat with the A/C on. The OP did not say if that was the case. So I looked for a different option that does not require driver intervention.
John
10-28-11, 05:29 PM
#11
Passenger
Posts: n/a
Per the PFC Water temps in hot weather and traffic and no AC on creep to over 100C sometimes. In very hot weather over 105 and sometimes more.
I have a dual oil cooler setup and a Koyo N Flow radiator. I think its my Greddy style knock off intercooler that is overheating the car.
It is my hope that the two 12" pusher fans I added o the AC condenser can help cool the car a little.
I have a dual oil cooler setup and a Koyo N Flow radiator. I think its my Greddy style knock off intercooler that is overheating the car.
It is my hope that the two 12" pusher fans I added o the AC condenser can help cool the car a little.
You can buy a thermo-switch and place it in the t-stat housing or on a water line. I would also run the fans directly from the battery to ensure direct power.
Another thing I was going to ask is--- Do you have the proper ducting for your rad and IC.
I am running the Apexi front mount with the Koyo rad.
10-28-11, 05:40 PM
#12
30 = Full 12v+ to power fans. Thick gauge
85= Turn on wire that you found. Also 12v+, but splice from the OEM relay
86 = Ground
87= Full 12v+ from battery (fused). Thick gauge
(someone double check me)
I would forget trying to manually switch it if your car can do it auto. Good intel about the factory fog switch though!
85= Turn on wire that you found. Also 12v+, but splice from the OEM relay
86 = Ground
87= Full 12v+ from battery (fused). Thick gauge
(someone double check me)
I would forget trying to manually switch it if your car can do it auto. Good intel about the factory fog switch though!
10-28-11, 06:24 PM
#13
Wastegate John
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How many miles are on your stock fans?
Did you verify they are spinning properly?
Are you using an undertray? If so try removing it and see what your temps are.
Maybe you have someother issues.
John
Did you verify they are spinning properly?
Are you using an undertray? If so try removing it and see what your temps are.
Maybe you have someother issues
.John
10-28-11, 10:06 PM
#14
30 = Full 12v+ to power fans. Thick gauge
85= Turn on wire that you found. Also 12v+, but splice from the OEM relay
86 = Ground
87= Full 12v+ from battery (fused). Thick gauge
(someone double check me)
I would forget trying to manually switch it if your car can do it auto. Good intel about the factory fog switch though!
85= Turn on wire that you found. Also 12v+, but splice from the OEM relay
86 = Ground
87= Full 12v+ from battery (fused). Thick gauge
(someone double check me)
I would forget trying to manually switch it if your car can do it auto. Good intel about the factory fog switch though!
30 is for fused from battery
87 would be 12V out to auxilary fans
Has for years.
10-29-11, 07:28 AM
#17
Wastegate John
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The reason why I suggested remove the undertray is because you might not be getting enough air through the front mount, so if you removed the undertray you might be able to get more air to the radiator. I know there have been a few, although rare, instances of people who have had better luck without the undertray.
John
10-29-11, 09:19 PM
#19
Passenger
Posts: n/a
I have to take a pic of my radiator scoop for the bottom of the car. It has worked pretty good and I almost get as good a temps as my buddy with M2 side mount or I think its a side mount. He also had the water jackets bored and slightly ported motor which i think it would help with temps. I agree with RENESISFD! When the car is sitting the rad fans should keep it fairly cool. These fans have a very good CFMs to get the air out. If you have a front mount and don't have any other way to get air to the rad other then through the front mount, that cant be that good. I made a scoop so I get somewhat of fresh air coming from the bottom of the car.
10-30-11, 10:33 AM
#20
My fans are set to come on at 80 degrees.
I found out my four blade fan is kind of lazy. It takes noticeably more effort to spin it with my finger and makes a weird faint clicking sound when I spin it.
SO - I have pulled my stock fans and will be looking for a set of those.
As far as my auxilary fans, Ive found the signal on the stock relays I'm going to use. These should help cool the condenser with the AC running.
I think its interesting someone else is mentioning an under car scoop because Ive been tossing this idea around not for the radiator but to feed my single turbo. Right now, my intake is right next to the hot fan output. Id be interested in seeing how someone else has done it.
I found out my four blade fan is kind of lazy. It takes noticeably more effort to spin it with my finger and makes a weird faint clicking sound when I spin it.
SO - I have pulled my stock fans and will be looking for a set of those.
As far as my auxilary fans, Ive found the signal on the stock relays I'm going to use. These should help cool the condenser with the AC running.
I think its interesting someone else is mentioning an under car scoop because Ive been tossing this idea around not for the radiator but to feed my single turbo. Right now, my intake is right next to the hot fan output. Id be interested in seeing how someone else has done it.
10-30-11, 11:25 AM
#23
Let me give you some advice that you need to hear... ditch that intercooler. From firsthand experience that Greddy-style setup is prone to those exact types of problems you are having. And I'm talking about the real Greddy kit--the fact that you have a knockoff is not an issue. It's an inherently bad design for cooling.
Throw in the towel on that thing. It will save you frustration and possible engine damage. Go with something else. The sooner you get rid of it, the sooner you will solve your problems. Work-arounds and bandaids won't cut it--ducting, fan arrangements, etc. I've personally seen them not work.
Throw in the towel on that thing. It will save you frustration and possible engine damage. Go with something else. The sooner you get rid of it, the sooner you will solve your problems. Work-arounds and bandaids won't cut it--ducting, fan arrangements, etc. I've personally seen them not work.
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