Tem120

iTrader: (5)

well I have a manual Car , and I can buy an automatic engine .. but I have 0 interest in the automatic engine . I can buy a 5 speed trans .. and I can find an ECU ...



Would I be able to just switch the 5 speed onto the automatic engine? or is there alot more to it?

Also what made the auto engines detuned vs the manual ones? was it the actual tyranny or the ECU ,

96fd3s

Its the ECU that makes it less powerful.
You can put an auto engine in a manual car, You need to change something on the engine ( front or rear plate? im not sure exactly which, but im pretty sure its relativly simple either way).

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

Rear plate . mm thanks so if I replaced the rear plate I can just mate a manual trans , and a manual ECU and its just fine?

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

Do I need seals if I exchange the rear plate?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you don't need to change the irons, there is a vacuum system on the engine that needs to be deleted though, under the upper intake(an auxiliary vacuum canister and solenoid). while you're there, swap to the manual transmission engine harness otherwise you need to adapt the auto harness and repin the connectors at the ECU for the manual transmission connectors.

greenday_5606

You do not need to change the rear plate. The auto will have one extra bolt hole though. Also as Karack said theres an extra vacuum chamber that was on the auto...not sure what it did but its there. Other than that you should be good to go.

He's On Toroids

iTrader: (2)

USDM Automatic cars had the same horsepower as the manual ones. The reason for the car being slower is due to gearing and a lower rpm limit. Also, the auto is heavier then the manual.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

they also have mushy shifts and suck up closer to 25% of the horsepower through drivetrain losses compared to about 15% with the manuals.

at any rate, the auto engine will mount to a manual transmission fine, you however cannot put an auto transmission onto a manual engine as there is no place to bolt the starter on the manual engine rear iron.

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

would I need to change the flywheel , and also do I need to plug the extra hole? ( I can get a flywheel anyways so its not a big issue just a curiosity question )

RIX-7

iTrader: (2)

Change the flywheel, get a new pilot bearing as the auto engine won't have one.
Make a blanking plate for the rear iron where the starter sat. And I think it's one less mounting bolt differance.

Rix

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

is there any reason why you'd NEED a blanking plate where the starter used to be?

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

I just thought of something else .. on wiki it says the JDM engine has 10 more HP than the USDM , is that 10 more from the ECU? or is it some sort of internals ? I keep hearing JDM engines are more sought after then USDM.

again why is that?

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

directly from wiki

1.3L 255 PS (188 kW; 252 hp) 13B-REW
1.3L 265 PS (195 kW; 261 hp) 13B-REW
1.3L 280 PS (206 kW; 276 hp) 13B-REW

RIX-7

iTrader: (2)

Piece of tin (rough guide only 2"x5") with two bolt holes, just to stop crap or something getting in the bell housing and messing with your clutch.

Rix

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The core engines are the same. The changes for the increased power came from external differences (newer ECU, updated Y-pipe, etc).

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

mm welll!! I'm comparing same year ..


IE the 93 usdm rx7 had 252 , while the JDM had 261 ? why is that? was the JDM computer more advanced? or was the JDM Y pipe free'r flowing?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Don't read Wiki's...

The short-blocks are the same (performance wise) for the 13B-REW, regardless of years. There may be small differences outside of the short-block within the same year due to emission requirements for various countries (like no pre-cat for JDM) , but the core engine is the same.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

unless you happen to get a '99 spec.