what's the most horse power the auto tranny can handle.

 

It seems to be a crap shoot. I had some work done at RP in Dallas and the car dyno'd at around 260 rwhp. The next day I had no 3rd gear. I just got it out of the shop, where I had it rebuilt with parts from level 10. Close to $2K just for labor.

 

You notice any changes for the better or worse in the tranny now? Like quicker acceleration from a stop, better shifting, etc??

 

why didn't you just do a tranny swap for that price.

 

Viper Jr,

It's hard to say whether it shifts better or not, since I have the PFC and the computer is no longer able to smooth out the shifts, but I can say that it is definately no worse than before I had the PFC.

The only two things I really noticed were 1) That it runs a lot cooler-I used to feel heat streaming out of the tunnel, enough so that a passenger commented on it one time. That is gone. 2) Sometimes when I was in Park, the key would not come out and I would have to jiggle the shifter to get it to release. That is gone as well. These may be due to the rebuild itself, new ATF, I don't know.

As far as being quicker...well the car is definately a LOT faster, but I just had a PFC installed and a new SMIC, and some boost problems fixed.

I can say that the L10 torque converter looks beefier compared to the stock one, and a relatively good bargain since the trans guy told me a stock one is $1500 from the dealer. I can tell that it does slip a bit until 3200-3500, which is what it is supposed to do. I do have a flat spot in power and torque right after the shift to 4th. The rpms are a bit below 3 or around 3. This happens at around 120 so I'm not sure exactly. It could be tuning, or the torque converter.

The more I read about the auto tranny in the shop manual the more I worry. The tranny has several modes such as sport/reg/low temp, and all sorts of things are afffected like shift points, lockup, shift shock, etc. I worry that 1) trans life will be reduced, and 2) I'm not getting all of the power to the wheels. 260 RWHP sounds pretty weak for my mods. I know you have retained your trans ecu. What do your #s look like?

All in all, with only about 500 miles on the new tranny, I can say the level 10 parts give me an extra piece of mind over the stock minivan transmission. One note, if you bring your own parts, you will get NO WARRANTY. I already had the parts, so I figured what the hell.

 

1) I already had the level 10 parts.
2) I can't find anyone nearby to do it. (Chris at RP said NO)
3) I'm not paying $3K and up round trip to have it shipped somewhere that will.
4) Impossible to return to stock should I need to sell.
5) One of the guys on the forum did his recently and it is already giving him problems.
6) All of the emails I sent to guys that do it (KDR being the exception) never returned my emails, or worse, no longer had those accounts.

I may have it done later when I have to rebuild the engine, or if I go single turbo and #4 is no longer an option.

 

oh yeah, I have broken the rear tires lose from a stop...twice! without power braking.

 

GOOD I was hoping the torque converter would overcome that terrible lack of torque from a dead stop. I dynoed at 250 to the wheels with intake, downpipe, cat-back, stock main cat, ported motor, and Haltech, and 10-11PSI. I bet if you dynoed your car again you'd get a much better run than you did last time.

zayrx7: In answer to your original question, I recall hearing that you can expect things to start going bad on the tranny when it starts pushing 350-400HP unless upgraded.

 

I'm having problems with my tranny, when i get on the gas the rpm go up but the car doesn't go until a couple of seconds later. Does this sound like the tranny is slipping or is it time for a new one.


my mods. apexi intakes. greddy frontmount intercooler, greddy full-pulley kit, downpipe, midpipe, greddy exaust, apexi PFC, profic B boost control, upgrade fuel pump, y-pipe.

 

You AUTO tranny owners should check this forum out, this may be your ticket to being faster than 5 speeds(as well as being more consistant) with a auto tranny due to leaving the line on boost, and also keeping the boost up between gears with a BIG single turbo and NOS and Level 10 tranny parts. If everything turns out to work like it's supposed to it should work damn good. Plus it will eliminate alot of drivetrain breakage after the transmission because the rear and axles won't be shocked so bad when leaving the line there will be already a load when building boost on the line, this has been proven with Supras and most domestic cars, so you auto guys should seriously look into this.

https://www.rx7club.com/vforums/show...threadid=30574

 

that's what mine was doing and then it just went out completely. I could leave it in low, but if it was in S or D when it would shift to what was supposed to be 3rd the rpms would spin like it was in N without the car going. You could try changing the ATF to see if that helps. The guy that replaced my tranny said that in his opinion the ATF was as important if not more important than the parts themselves. You can also look at the atf to see if something has gone bad in the transmission. If it does go out, it may be cheaper to just get a new MPV transmission swapped in rather than having the rebuild like I did. Let it break in and then go with a synthetic ATF.

 

Toyota did a good job with the Supra auto tranny. It was engineered for the specs of that car and engine. We got stuck with a transmission out of a minivan that was added as an afterthought to try and increase marketability at a time when the sports car market was drying up. The domestics have the added advantage of tons of aftermarket support like B&M, powerglide, etc. I have at times dreamt of some sort of bell housing adapter or something in order to run one of those "domestic" trannies, but it would be easier I think to swap a 5-speed, and again with all of the same problems that entails.

 

Weaklink,
If your referring to me as the one having problems with the swap, its beacuse my srchyos are going out on a tranny I got for free. (ITs on 5th gear, and reverse). Other then that the swap has gave me no problems at all. If you consider doing a swap, I would reccommend it .

 

Thats what my tranny did for a couple of months before it went out. Once I installed my boost controller and turned up the boost, there went my tranny. Its starting to slip.

 

what is the website for level 10???...i just blew my auto tranny too!!!

 

www.levelten.com

 

I see you are in Dallas. By chance you didn't just get a PFC at RP did you? Chris said they have done a couple since mine.

 

I havent got the PFC yet, still waiting on some funds. Your saying that RP has done a few swaps as well. When I told them I was doing a swap, Chris said " good luck and kida laughed beacuse of the task.:p

 

actually I meant that RP had installed PFCs on some more automatics since mine. I think mine was the first there. I asked Chris about swapping a 5-speed and he said he wouldn't.

 

Hey guys,

I got off the phone with MZM Performance in Austin, Texas - and they say they can do hte auto/manual for $550 in labor, IF you bring all the parts. This includes the wiring as well. They did Goblin's car. Any comments on their work Goblin?

http://www.mzmperformance.com/index....43bf94b5e9a36d

I'm going to San Marcos this coming weekend, so I think I'll swing by to give thier shop a visit.

 

How much would all the parts for a manual transmission cost??

 

Depends on pretty much luck - what the initial price of the parts are, and if they need to be rebuilt/repaired, aftermarket clutch vs stock, etc. I've seen a tranny (by itself) sold as low as $200 by Jim Lebreck during one of his generous moods,hehe (I'm still kicking myslf for not jumping on that), and recently $400-$500. Everything all together can probably be gathered for under $2000 with no problems at all, with $1500 probably average.