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Atkins 13B going in, any tips?

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Old 07-08-05, 08:52 AM
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Low boost is 18psi *)

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Atkins 13B going in, any tips?

Hey guys

I'm relatively new here, but I figured I'd jump right in and post. A buddy of mine bought an FD a few months ago, he was running it hard and then it started knocking (to make a long story short, lol)

I dissasembled the motor tonight and look what I found. I then told him......."remember when you asked me why it was running funny and I asked what kind of gas you put in?"...."yeah?".........."well this is what happens when you dont follow my advice"

I'm also wondering do you guys have any tips/shortcuts to putting the motor back together. I took my time pulling it apart (about 3 hours or so), took pics of areas that might look like a problem, laid parts out in the order they came off, and also labeled all vaccum lines i actually removed. I was wondering, with all these lines, there has to be some removal FAQ's or something like that. My last question is I have not removed the flywheel yet and im wondering how I'm going to remove that. I guess I'll have to do some more searching here. Now onto the pics......

The new baby, sexy isnt it?



The oil pickup and pan shots.....I've got some oil lines to clean it appears





Thanks for your help guys
Old 07-08-05, 09:03 AM
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Mr. Links

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Originally Posted by Booztd 3
I'm also wondering do you guys have any tips/shortcuts to putting the motor back together. I took my time pulling it apart (about 3 hours or so), took pics of areas that might look like a problem, laid parts out in the order they came off, and also labeled all vaccum lines i actually removed. I was wondering, with all these lines, there has to be some removal FAQ's or something like that.
The FSM (Factory Service Manual):
http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/1993_factor...ice_manual.htm

Originally Posted by Booztd 3
My last question is I have not removed the flywheel yet and im wondering how I'm going to remove that. I guess I'll have to do some more searching here. Now onto the pics......
You'll need some way to stop the flywheel from turning, then just knock off the big nut with an impact. I use a flywheel shopper:



There are other ways.
Old 07-08-05, 09:08 AM
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Low boost is 18psi *)

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What size is the bolt?

I didnt have a metric ruler but it measured 2 1/8" on my tape. I'll probably just use a prybar to hold the motor in place
Old 07-08-05, 09:46 AM
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just use a 2 1/8" socket from sears.

and with all the bearing debris in the pan and on the pickup, i don't know if that was caused by detonation. who built that motor? was it new? just based off the color of the rotor housings (they look like they've been cleaned), and the rtv used on the pan, i'd say it was a recent rebuild.

when you eat the bearings, the motors will make a knocking sound--which is actually pretty similar to the way piston engines sound when they knock. when rotaries actually detonate, it sounds a little more like popcorn or a bunch of dried up sticks breaking under your feet when you step on them.

first thing i'd do is take your oil cooler(s) off and have them cleaned professionally. $30 isn't a lot of money until all the leftover debris recycles through the new motor and takes it out as well.

pay very close attention when you pull the front cover off and see if it has the o-ring and nylon washer where the oil passage meets the front cover and front iron. if it doesn't, that might have been your problem. if it does, you've got to do a little forensics to find out where you were losing oil pressure (if that's indeed the case).

good luck
Old 07-08-05, 09:55 AM
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Low boost is 18psi *)

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Thanks for the tips

I figured I'd just go "rent" the socket from Sears

As far as the motor goes, yes it was a recent rebuild. The dealership had this car for a while and it had some problems so they got tired of screwing with it and just swapped in a whole new motor, funny isnt it? There is even a stamped plate rivited to the front cover that says "rebuild" or something to that extent.

As far as the coolers go, I have previous experience with that. In my Z when I rebuild it I had to flush all the coolers out with solvent spray and then brake clean. I'm pretty confident I got all the debris out of there, and I'm aware that shavings get EVERYWHERE.

I'm not going to pull the front cover off, because that core has to go back to Atkins, and they wont accept it if the cover has been removed. My guess is he grenaded the motor by running 87 octane. After it started to go, i bet he continued to run it for some time (out of stupidity/ignorance)
Old 07-08-05, 05:02 PM
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with all that debris, it's hard to tell, but i wouldn't be surprised if the apex seals aren't broken.

snap some more pics when you get it apart.
Old 07-11-05, 09:05 AM
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Low boost is 18psi *)

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Well, everything is apart and most everything is back on the new rotor setup. I didnt have much difficulty switching everything over. I figured out most of that whole vaccum line mess can be removed at the same time, so that made things alot simpler. Currently I only have 1 plug, and 2 vaccum lines I have yet to figure out where they go. I might have pics up by tonight, but if anyone can recommend something based off of my description, that'd be great.

The electrical plug is RIGHT behind the alternator. Its a 1 wire plug, black with a yellow insert. Currently I have no clue where it goes. There are two vaccum lines sitting in front of the intake manifold, I dont really know where those go either.
Old 08-11-05, 10:42 PM
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Ouch. An Atkins motor? Cross your fingers.
Old 08-11-05, 10:44 PM
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3 and the hit for $100?

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thats a beautiful motor
Old 08-12-05, 03:17 AM
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Low boost is 18psi *)

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It seems to be running fine now after i got all the issues ironed out, why are there soo many good/bad reviews for these guys?
Old 08-12-05, 06:12 AM
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because a couple of people had bad luck with them when a bad employee was there and just throwing stuff together. That is all in the past. Also one vendor that everyone sucks off on this site( HINT: HE copies everything and undersells the originals,..even copies the abreviated name) had a bad one and talked enough **** to fertilize the Iowa corn fields to the next century Basically bandwagon jumpers They didn't give out as many bad engines as Pineapple did.


That said i have one of there engines in our FC and it has over 35k miles on it in the last 3-4 years. Not a single hiccup. They build good engines.

Also I would NOT tear your engine apart to inspect and take pics for the forum . Atkins will NOT accept a engine that has been disassembled as a core They like to take them down and find the cause of death themselves, so they can replace what is bad 1 time. Too much liability of getting sent **** parts inside the engine once a dishonest person takes what they want out of the old one.

Last edited by BigIslandSevens; 08-12-05 at 06:20 AM.
Old 08-12-05, 07:12 AM
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Low boost is 18psi *)

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I didnt dissasemble the core, as soon as I took everything off that was needed to bolt up to the new block, i promptly put it in the crate the new one came in and sent it off as the core. I could care less why the old one grenaded, because I know exactly why. He was runnign the crap out of the car with 87 octane in it. Not to mention the pound of metal shavings i flushed out of the oil lines, oil pan, and other areas.
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