Well, I have a 2000 Honda S2000 that is for sale. A guy locally wants to trade for an FD. Which works out perfect for me, because I REALLY want to get one. I have lurked on this site for a while, not posting much...just researching on how to maintain these beasts properly etc etc.

Anyways,
XS Engineering (NOT the ebay company) T04e Single Turbo Kit
HKS Racing 50mm wastegate plumbed back into downpipe (both of which are thermal wrapped)
K & N Filter on turbo
Polished compressor housing
Stainless Steel water and oil lines
Rx-7 Store Resonated Midpipe/changed to a cat
HKS Carbon Fiber Ti Exhaust
Greddy 2-Row Front Mount Intercooler
TiAL Blow-Off Valve
Removed secondary butterflies in UIM
650cc/1300cc Injectors
Stainless Steel Fuel lines
Aeromotive FPR
Stainless Steel OMP Lines
Stainless Steel Clutch Line
ACT S/S Clutch
New Clutch Release Fork (old one wasn't broken but figured I'd change it)
New Clutch Master Cylinder
New Clutch Slave Cylinder
MSD 6A Ignition
Currently running 4 9's for plugs
Magnecor Wires
Rotary Extreme Pullies (No Air Pump)
Mini Battery Kit with New Odyssey PC680 (2 months old)
Supra Fuel Pump
Fuel Pump always on 12 Volts
Koyo Radiator (with some ducting work for better air flow)
SARD high pressure Radiator Cap
Apexi Power FC with Commander
Defi D series gauges
A pillar
Water Temp (tapped thermostat housing)
A/F (never connected)
Climate Control Relocation
Boost
Fuel Pressure
Clarion Head Unit
Kicker 6.5's in doors
Kirk Racing 4 Point Roll Cage (Bolt-In, in front of bins)
Gotham Racing Short Shifter (New Shifter Bushing)
DIY Urethane Motor Mounts

Other notes:
No throttle body coolant lines exist
AST removed
NO A/C
NO Power Steering

It also has a freshly rebuilt engine, needs paint, and leather seats are torn.

What would you say this is worth? And will the set up be reliable for me?

 

Ha, ha, ha, ha. As W.C. Fields once said, "There's one born every minute."

 

its not going to be a daily driver. i plan on putting buckets in for the seats...but relatively speaking is this a decent set up. and for you more experienced people. is there something that catches your eye right off the bat....tahts all i was asking.

 

I think a large part of determining price is the condition of the car; paint, # of miles on engine/body.

Pics would help. Seems like the car has enough mods though, i'm guessing at least $16k.

 

I had sold my 2000 S2000 which at the time I got 20K for. If your doing a swap you should see what the S would get if you sold it and then estimate the price on the FD. As turboboy asks: condition, miles, etc will determine the FD's value. All the add ons wont mean much if it runs crappy and looks like ****.

BTW: going from the S2000 to the FD (not daily driver) was the best decision I have made in 30 years...

 

I am not sure on chassis miles, but it has faded paint (needs new paint was sitting in AZ sun) it is read, straight body however. new engine has 1100 miles.

Everything else seems to be in good condition other than the seats...
I will try to get pics up asap

 

I hate to sound like a broken record, but make sure you read the FAQs that are stickied at the top of the 3rd Gen forum. You asked if this car will be reliable -- Despite the new engine, it has a lot of work done to it. Unless you trust the workmanship and the tuning, you don't really know what you're getting in to. It could be a poorly rebuilt motor with a poorly tuned setup that will blow up the second you try and push it hard. Or it could be professionally built and tuned -- ask for receipts for all the work. However, if you're really concerned about reliability you should look for a car that's relatively stock with basic reliability upgrades only (AST, Radiator, downpipe, etc.) instead. Just my .02. By the way, when you drive the car be careful with that throttle

 

im going with 14 to 17k

 

I appreciate your post and advice. I am a noob to the whole rotary thing, but definetly not cars, or big HP imports either. I just sold my 500whp KA24de-T 240sx...I also have a ball bearing 50trim talon.

I understand reliability and rotary dont really go together, but I meant in terms of parts chosen etc, will it really hold together or do you think it would just fall apart? I know there will be more upkeep than a normal car, but its also not a daily driver.

The tune BTW, i ALWAYS get a modded car retuned ASAP. because i prefer my tuners over theirs and i KNOW exactly how its tuned

Thanks to all your responses I am going to see if he will do the FD plus 3k...

 

I would ask why he wants to trade his FD for an S2000. Not to dis either car but there must be some motivation for his wanting something other than the FD. I would guess that thing (motivation) is reliability.

 

Do you know who rebuild the engine? A 1100 mile engine could be bad if it wasn't built properly. I think to help determine the value of the FD, you could get it compression tested, and even a test drive might help~

If everything works the way they are suppose to, i would say ~17k (since the paint is faded)?

 

Assuming the motor has good compression and the turbo is in OK condition, $17-19k sounds pretty fair.



What wheels and tires does the car have on it? I wouldn't buy the car if he's got all that power but cheapo tires installed. If you're going to buy a modded car, you'd better buy one from someone who pays attention to details. The last thing you want is to spend a lot of time and money fixing someone elses mistakes/oversights. If you need to have your engine rebuilt, that's $5000 on average.


Ask how long it's been since he changed the fuel filter. If it's only got one oil cooler, that's what I would upgrade next. Then wheels & tires, then suspension.


-s-

 

you might want get another tuner for this one...... remeber.. this is a rotary ;]

 

lol...yeah, i realize that as well. However, i am not sure who the best tuners are in AZ or the So-cal area...any advice?

 

Always amazes me that people can estimate the price of a car without knowing the chassis miles. Miles are the primary determinant of the price of a vehicle. Mods are essentially irrelevant.

If the chassis miles are over 100k I would guess $10-$12k. Probably closer to $10k because of the bad paint - a decent paint job is $3-$5k. Mods are irrelevant. $16k+ would only make sense if the chassis miles were close to 50-60k.

 

if you can wait a little... Steve Kan (in my opinion one of the best rotary tuners in the world) will have a tuning session in the LA area.... about the dates and where?... well its pending... its said to be either somtime in march or april..... shop: unknown for now

check this thread for updates..

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...=1#post6616500