Apex Seals Experienced Help!!!
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Apex Seals Experienced Help!!!
I currently have a 80k original engine. The car runs very strong and no problems seen yet. I did all the safety mods already. Been driving it for a year and nothing went wrong. But one thing I'm not sure is "How you know when will your apex seals burn out?" Is there anyway to check it? Experience rebuilt owner replies will be very helpful. Thanks inadvance!
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But I don't see any problem with the car though. Starts every time and right at the crack. I don't see any vibrations on the engine at all. No lack of power and she's running like a bitch. I replaced the turbos 6 months ago and it's running full boost with a 10-8-10 pattern.
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so what's your problem? I don't understand. I thought you were just asking how you could tell when apex seals went out...not asking if your car suffered from that right now.
IF you're asking how you can tell if they're WORN, you can do a compression test. THey wear down to a certain point, and then let go all at once. THat point, with every engine, is different, and can be aggravated by several other factors. They give no warning before they let go in most cases.
IF you're asking how you can tell if they're WORN, you can do a compression test. THey wear down to a certain point, and then let go all at once. THat point, with every engine, is different, and can be aggravated by several other factors. They give no warning before they let go in most cases.
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Then I guess a compression test will be my best way to find out the engine's life on my FD. You guys know what result or number is good?
There should be 6 numbers right?
There should be 6 numbers right?
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IF you use a conventional piston gauge, you will really only be able to take 2 accurate measurements, one front and one rear, this represents the highest compression in that chamber of the 3 faces. IN general each face will be close to the other 2 in the same chamber. You want to see 90psi or higher, preferably over 100. Below 90 is ready to let go.
IF you get a mazda comp. test done, they have a digital machine that checks each face, and measures in bar, which is the metric equivalent of 14.7 psi. To convert from bar (you will get a reading like 6.8, etc.) multuply by 14.7 to find out the psi.
The FSM lists the acceptable compression numbers in ar, as well as altitude and rpm compensation.
IF you get a mazda comp. test done, they have a digital machine that checks each face, and measures in bar, which is the metric equivalent of 14.7 psi. To convert from bar (you will get a reading like 6.8, etc.) multuply by 14.7 to find out the psi.
The FSM lists the acceptable compression numbers in ar, as well as altitude and rpm compensation.
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Your reply was very helpful for me. Thankyou so much. So no matter how strong your car is currently running, it has nothing to do with those apex seals inside your motor right? So it can be die out any minute without a sign?
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Apex seals make compression. Compression makes the engine run. THey go hand in hand. As seals wear, compression weakens, but the engine still basically runs the same, except sometimes startup suffers a little. Contrary to piston engines, rotary engines lose compression all at once versus over time...one of my favorite quotes:
"turbo rotary--the most efficient method for converting 90psi of compression to zero..."
"turbo rotary--the most efficient method for converting 90psi of compression to zero..."
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