Remove my motor to the block to send to...ugh...err...Atkins for warranty. Found 1 apex seal removed from the front rotor. Seems like it fell off cause I cannot see any grooves in the rotor housings. The drive plate turns easily...the rear seals appear to be ok all around. Turbos ok too.

I thought the rear apex would break first? What would cause the front to bust but not the rear? The warranty clearly stipulates they wont cover Apex failure because it is due to detonation but can I argue other reasons legitimately to cause this same failure?

I run normal boost...with reliability mods...new injectors-- do I have an argument?

Kinda need help since the block gets shipped out this afternoon.

Thanks

 

rear apex seal won't necessary break. I've seen plenty of front housings lose apex seals. Your Turbos might not be good however. If you destroyed an apex seal, you sent the apex seal thru the manifold then the turbo....which means you had a SLIM chance of not ******* up the exhaust wheel.

When I blew my engine, my rear housing went, and took out the rear exhaust wheel.

 

sitting directly below your primaries is an air bleed socket. This part is about 1 1/2 inches long and about 1/2 " in diameter. The bottom has a bunch of little holes like a salt shaker. If you neglect your fuel system and use poor gas these holes will clogg up and limit your fuel to very little, causing a lean condition and then BOOM. As for your front rotor going first, my front and rear rotors were in a race to see which one would go first. My rear rotor won.

Scott

 

this socket is on/in the engine block or the fuel rail? could you post a pic? funny, had the injectors done, removed the fuel rail and have no idea what you are talking about....

i have supra tt pump...ran two filters, stock and 10 mic k&N...included after the filter but before the rail is an ashcroft glycerin filled, pressure guage on at all times. I think I idle at 45 psi...but no sure since i have a million other numbers in my head.

maybe if I viewed a pic I would have an idea of this air/bleed device.

thanks

 

I guess his talking about fuel mixing plate.

 

the air bleed sockets sit under the primaries, which are in the intermediate housing.

they're function is to break the fuel into a fine mist.

 

oh man.. just be ready to fight with the warranty company. If you were actually running lean then the insurance companies will not cover you. Running rich is the same matter.

 

its been over a year since i put my engine, so my memory has become fuzzy. there are bleed sockets for the secondaries also. they are the ones i ordered from ray at malloy mazda. my new engine already came with the bleed sockets for the primaries. on my old engine.

what i was experiencing was high rpm hesitation...mostly at 5500-6500 rpms. my secondary bleed sockets were so clogged when i held them up to the sun i could barely see any light.....thats why ithe engine was hesitating at high rpms.

i would fight with the warrany co. on this one.

this is the primary bleed socket.

 

this is the secondary.

 

thanks everyone for the feedback...

I was cleaning up the LIM and put my fingers inside to pop out the "diffusers" from the secondaries...they were black plastic and very clean.

But...here is a concern:

I thought, not like I am an engineer or anything, the atomization was a funtion of open area (nozzle design) and head pressure...certainly the nozzles atomize finer than those plastic holes? Why do I need them?

Learn something everyday....