i have heard that the koyo might be too thick and will require alot of air pressure to kool it down. so im wondering if i should get a fluidyne or koyo.

has anyone had ne problems using a koyo with a FMIC? thanks

 

I will let you know as soon as I get my Koyo from Jason...

 

rx7store? good luck i ordered some spark plugs and wires on june 2 and they are still not here yet. i have already received my credit card bill too. bad *** service.

 

Yes, I went through the same thing. Just be glad that you ordered it June 2 and not December 5

 

The Koyo is 2"' thick and the Fluidyne is 1 1/2" thick. It's hard to believe that the Koyo restricts air more than the Fluidyne. You can't go wrong picking either one.

The real issue is the FMIC blocks cooling air needed by the radiator. Focus on solving that problem!

 

2 words.... 'FAN MOD'. Doesn't matter which ones you pick, you will need to do the fan mod if you want to take advantage of the extra cooling the radiators provide.

Had the Koyos for close to 3 weeks now, no problems with cooling whatsoever, most of the time temp ranges 81-82 deg, on extremem heat it's 85-86.

Timmy

 

i know, currently with the fan mod im running at 85 degrees. but no fans the heat goes up to 100. scary.

 

You guys have no idea the kind of heating problems we are faced with in the south. Our ambient temp are hovering above 95 deg F where as you ambient temp barely reachs 90 deg F. The thermometer is pointing at 106 today. In conditions like this, the fan mod will only maintain equalibrium at around 195 deg F which is 90.56 deg C. On hard driving conditions 70-80+ mph, the FMIC blocks enough of the normal airflow to the radiator to cause the temp to rise well above 230 deg F (110 deg C). At 60-70 mph the temp will maintain 220-230 deg F.
When the ambient temp is 85 deg F or below, the fan mod and available airflow have no problems keeping the temp at around 190-200 deg F (87.8-93.3 deg C).
The fan mod does absolutely NOTHING at highway speeds , it is only good for stop and go type traffic. At highway speeds the normal mass airflow volume far exceeds the capabilities of the cooling fans.
The stock IC uses ducting to direct a portion of the air available and leaves the majority of the air to flow through the radiator horizontally (45 deg to the rad), at the same time the plastic belly pan is also designed to direct air flow through the radiator (perpendicular), and pass through the bottom of the car for aerodynamic reasons. The FMIC reduces the horizontal airflow to the
radiator. The traditional fix is to some fab work to remount the radiator perpendicular to the ground right behind the FMIC, allowing all available air to pass through perpendicular to the rad and thereby increase the cooling capabilities. I prefer to leave my radiator at the stock location. I have redesigned the belly pan to increase the airflow by approximately 75% over stock. This effectively made up for the decrease in airflow caused by the FMIC.

 

got any pics of the modded belly pan?

 

Trex is absolutely right on with this, we have had some hot days here in So Cal that last couple of weeks, especially inland from the coast. The fan mod does nothing at all when I am on the freeway, only when I slow down and do some city driving do the temps drop down below 90C. I think that sealing off the edges of my radiator will help when I finally get out in my garage to do it. Last month I was driving back from San Diego on the I-15 north (traffic out of SD on I-5 on the weekend is a JOKE!) and it was real hot out, I am sure it was 100F. The car was fine on straights, but every time I would climb a hill and put more load on the motor.. sure enough, the temps would slowly climb. I never saw it go above 98C, but I was actually happy to see the border station slow down so the car could cool off with the fans. This is all with a Fluidyne as well.

Matt
93 SSM