Very sorry guys as I know this is beaten beyond death. My tach was recently repaired. All the board was looked over, cleaned up, and caps replaced where needed.
Now once I turn key on it jumps to 1000 rpm. Then once started it is at 2000 idle or 1000 above whatever the actual number is.
It is 1000 above at 850rpm through 7500 rpm and I would assume through 8k... I am getting ready to pull the cluster again, I just want to make sure there is nothing else exterior it could be. Quick ideas? I really want to keep this stock gauge cluster especially because the original miles, but damnit I am a bit OCD on gauges.

 

I would seriously consider having Michael Gagne fix it. He can calibrate it properly.

Vince

 

I am trying to think of how it got out of calibration... it's been fine after it was fixed.

 

So it's always reading 1000 RPM high?

There is a calibration pot on the tach, I think that will dial it in. I know I messed with it back in the day when I swapped to a 99 tach. That may be worth a quick try before sending it to Gagne.

Michael Gagne repaired my cluster recently and did a top notch job, highly recommended.

Dale

 

Dale

A few months after I got it repaired I turned it on and before engaging the starter in jumped to 1k. When I turn it off it is like 200-500rpm... after start it is always 1k high no matter what stage of driving.

it was functioning perfectperformance a few months after the repair and this just happened... no jumping around ir anything, just 1k high

 

This happens when needle crack upon removal. It will appear ok for some time, then the stepper motor needle will turn too fast once and will bring out of sync. If i'm the one that rebuilt your cluster please send back and i will repair at no cost. I developped a way of removing the needles that don't crack them in the stem, so in my case it rarely occurs. If not done by me, contact the person that rebuilt it, they should repair/recalibrate without any problems.

Michael

 

Easy way to tell, remove the lense and bring the needle to the max it will go without forcing. Take a picture and post it here, i'll be able to 100% confirm this is the issue or not

 

When back home I will check it out and call him.
Where are you located and how much (approximately) would you charge to take care of this and look over the other repairs that were done? This was not an "fd" familiar guy

 

900 idle

 

Need to remove the cluster and move the needle to the further position it will go to confirm. If it did in fact move, i can explain you how to put back to correct position, you don't really need to ship it to me for this if you feel confident in performing the repair, its not really hard

 

The needle is very smooth and moves freely from 0 to past 9.
Everything looks really good.

 

Dale I didn't see anyway to calibrate it on the backside. The only thing I saw was a vid where the guy started it up, pulled the needle off while it was running, and put it back on while it is at the proper rpm.... he had a commander showing the rpm.

Is there a glue or something I could use to help make sure it doesn't strip?

 

I would trust what Gagne is saying (St3atwarrior) - there is a blue pot on the circuit board of the tach itself, but that's for fine tuning the calibration.

Dale

 

That might have been me, I used a small dab of standard Elmer's school glue. (it fell off after a month without glue, but has been holding since I used the glue)

 

I will try and wait for Gagne's response. If not Billy's idea sounds good. I wasn't sure if Elmer's would stick to the materials. I may just give it a shot later today. I do believe it is the needle slipping.

 

Sorry i'm not super active here on the forum, missing time in my life...

Post a pic of your tach, as there is many different ones, i'll try and search in my pics for where it should stop. I hate glue as it makes the needle removal next to impossible without breaking it next time. But sometimes there is no other choices

 

No problem. For some reason my phone will not allow me to attach. it is an auto tach... I am a convert. Auto to Manual.
I will see if I can lower the quality of the pic to add in a bit. The needle moves totally freely.

 

 

So it was the needle. I did use the Elmer's glue and so far so good. I had it out for some serious beating today and the tach didn't miss a beat.

 

Nice, at least if it needs servicing in the future, it should be easy to remove (unlike crazy glue).

 

Definitely not my ideal fix, but it looks good and works...
Eventually I will probably swap all the guages out, but for the meantime I will take it!