Another FD start issue
#101
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i just went and checked the top dot from above the engine bay and the 2 silicone vac lines connected nearby and that’s all fine and the dye isn’t visible there.
however I just went to peek under the UIM and the little compartments on top of the motor next to the fuel rail and there was some fluorescent puddles there which would indicate a leak from the oil injectors on the rotors. However, this could also be old residue fuel puddles from when I was diagnosing (and fixed) my fuel leak since I had some dye in my old fuel too. When this damn rain stops I will clean it, then start the car, and see if it fills up again
#103
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I had someone else change out the clutch almost a year ago but it didn’t leak then not sure if the seal between rear plate and transmission is effected there. Also for the oil injectors I put brand new oil injectors with stainless steel lines and crush washers and tightened them up real good so I’d be surprised if those are leaking. Also the puddles seem to be small and clearly not enough to overspill and onto the bottom of the car.
I’ll look into what the main seal is
#106
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You might want to eliminate other sources before determining it is the "oil seal".
It is not as scary to replace as it looks. Refer to the FSM Section H for clutch removal.
You will have to "drop the transmission" and possibly remove the flywheel.
You might want to consider if your clutch needs replacing while you are at it.
I recently replaced my clutch and,, because the flywheel was damaged, replaced it with a lightweight flywheel.
The oil seal is quite obvious when the flywheel is exposed.
It is not as scary to replace as it looks. Refer to the FSM Section H for clutch removal.
You will have to "drop the transmission" and possibly remove the flywheel.
You might want to consider if your clutch needs replacing while you are at it.
I recently replaced my clutch and,, because the flywheel was damaged, replaced it with a lightweight flywheel.
The oil seal is quite obvious when the flywheel is exposed.
#113
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Page D-17 of the FSM seems ot indicate that the injectors could fail in a way that oil could be blown backwards into the injector by engine compression. I don't know if that means oil could also be blown into the vacuum supply lines. The vacuum lines from the injectors run back to a "T" which connects to s vacuum/boost source located on the LIM under the injectors.
For my car, we found those vacuum line had rotted away causing a vacuum leak and no vacuum (or boost) assiatance to the injectors.
(In later models Mazda revised the injectors to help avoid this problem.)
It looks like they actually are recommending you suck on the injector to test it.
For my car, we found those vacuum line had rotted away causing a vacuum leak and no vacuum (or boost) assiatance to the injectors.
(In later models Mazda revised the injectors to help avoid this problem.)
It looks like they actually are recommending you suck on the injector to test it.
Last edited by Redbul; 03-08-24 at 09:31 PM.
#114
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Thread Starter
Page D-17 of the FSM seems ot indicate that the injectors could fail in a way that oil could be blown backwards into the injector by engine compression. I don't know if that means oil could also be blown into the vacuum supply lines. The vacuum lines from the injectors run back to a "T" which connects to s vacuum/boost source located on the LIM under the injectors.
For my car, we found those vacuum line had rotted away causing a vacuum leak and no vacuum (or boost) assiatance to the injectors.
(In later models Mazda revised the injectors to help avoid this problem.)
It looks like they actually are recommending you suck on the injector to test it.
For my car, we found those vacuum line had rotted away causing a vacuum leak and no vacuum (or boost) assiatance to the injectors.
(In later models Mazda revised the injectors to help avoid this problem.)
It looks like they actually are recommending you suck on the injector to test it.
hey brother sorry for the late reply I just wanted to gather all info before making a reply.
so first the clutch is new and it didn’t leak after it was changed so I don’t think it’s the rear main seal unless that seal blew recently because it was overfilled with oil.
the oil injectors that connect to the rotor under the UIM are also brand new, all the vacuum lines under the UIM I did myself and made sure they’re all new and hooked properly.
The thing you said to blow on isn’t the oil injectors I’m referring to right? The picture looks different
I just went out with the UV black light at total dark and did a scan for oil. No oil anywhere but that one place you saw in the picture. What is that part?
better question is what is the part above the rear most turbo oil return line (the one that connects to the motor)?
because whatever that is is what’s stained with oil where it joins (to the motor?) which also would explain the smoke because of how hot the motor gets
#115
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Just went through the entire oil section on the FSM and the oil nozzles you said to blow through are indeed the oil nozzles I replaced with brand new OEM ones.
man this is really tough, I went through that whole FSM section and didn’t learn anything. It seems like the oil system is so simple yet I’m having a leak from somewhere not in the oil system
man this is really tough, I went through that whole FSM section and didn’t learn anything. It seems like the oil system is so simple yet I’m having a leak from somewhere not in the oil system
#116
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Maybe it is the rear top oil injector overflowing and spilling oil down the car I’ll have to check tomorrow I can’t see that compartment because the car is jacked up on one side. I’ll have to put it down and check. Man I really can’t think of anything else. The part that is wet with dye is whatever is on top of the rear turbo oil return line or whatever is to the left of the rear turbo itself
#118
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I discussed with my tuner friends. We did not go into great detail.
Three things we considered:
1. Leaking "main" seal
2. Leaking internal seal of the turbo
3. Upper oil feed lines
Main seal: You can take a look through the service opening on the underside of the housing, to look for leaking oil. Leaking oil could cause the clutch to slip, but if the leak is slow, it might not. The person that did your clutch work likely did not remove the flywheel, so may not have inspected the main seal.
Internal Seal: If the seals were leaking inside the turbo, it would manifest in burning oil smell in the exhaust
Feed lines : You should be able to inspect without much difficulty.
My car: Upper oil feed line in shadow area of middle of pic.
Three things we considered:
1. Leaking "main" seal
2. Leaking internal seal of the turbo
3. Upper oil feed lines
Main seal: You can take a look through the service opening on the underside of the housing, to look for leaking oil. Leaking oil could cause the clutch to slip, but if the leak is slow, it might not. The person that did your clutch work likely did not remove the flywheel, so may not have inspected the main seal.
Internal Seal: If the seals were leaking inside the turbo, it would manifest in burning oil smell in the exhaust
Feed lines : You should be able to inspect without much difficulty.
My car: Upper oil feed line in shadow area of middle of pic.
#119
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I am not aware that overfilling oil would cause damage from excess pressure. The excess oil should rise up the filler neck and drain out the overflow tube. If that has happened and your overflow tube is still hooked up to the front turbo intake elbow, you will end up with oil in your front turbo and this could cause smoking.
In addition you would like find oil in your crossover tube from the top of the y-pipe.
In addition you would like find oil in your crossover tube from the top of the y-pipe.
Last edited by Redbul; 03-09-24 at 01:51 PM.
#124
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#125
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