Another FD start issue
#76
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#80
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Ok guys.
so today I tightened the OMP lines that connect to the OMP with a wrench. I tightened it until I couldn’t anymore by hand so there was some wiggle room
next, I realized I think my oil was and still is overfilled. Sort of good news is that I haven’t drove it much (just idling and going up a tiny hill) since it’s been overfilled.
bad news is I’m scared it blew some turbo seal or something. Or hopefully it just leaked the excess out the OMP line
tomorrow I will Jack the car up, drain excess oil, and start her up and report back
so today I tightened the OMP lines that connect to the OMP with a wrench. I tightened it until I couldn’t anymore by hand so there was some wiggle room
next, I realized I think my oil was and still is overfilled. Sort of good news is that I haven’t drove it much (just idling and going up a tiny hill) since it’s been overfilled.
bad news is I’m scared it blew some turbo seal or something. Or hopefully it just leaked the excess out the OMP line
tomorrow I will Jack the car up, drain excess oil, and start her up and report back
#81
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Check your oil filler pipe and see how far up the oil has come in it. If you overfill, it will rise in the neck and exit through the breather tube at the top.
That breather tube usually runs to a "T" with one hose leading to the UIM (with a valve in it) and the other hose down to the elbow in front of the front turbo.
As suggested check to see if the pipe to the elbow is still there and whether it has been disturbed.
It is located near your OMP, so you could have dislodged it when tightening your OMP.
It is a common occurence of an oil overfill that oil ends up leaking out around the front of the front turbo.
In my car, someone had simply pulled away the breather tube leaving the neck to vent to the engine bay.
When it put a cap on it, the engine quickly stalled out.
So having the oil pan breath fumes is important.
The OEM set-up is to feed the fumes back to the UIM or the front turbo.
Many redirect the breather tube to a "catch can", so any oil that rises in the neck would run out to the catch can rather than the engine bay.
That breather tube usually runs to a "T" with one hose leading to the UIM (with a valve in it) and the other hose down to the elbow in front of the front turbo.
As suggested check to see if the pipe to the elbow is still there and whether it has been disturbed.
It is located near your OMP, so you could have dislodged it when tightening your OMP.
It is a common occurence of an oil overfill that oil ends up leaking out around the front of the front turbo.
In my car, someone had simply pulled away the breather tube leaving the neck to vent to the engine bay.
When it put a cap on it, the engine quickly stalled out.
So having the oil pan breath fumes is important.
The OEM set-up is to feed the fumes back to the UIM or the front turbo.
Many redirect the breather tube to a "catch can", so any oil that rises in the neck would run out to the catch can rather than the engine bay.
Last edited by Redbul; 03-02-24 at 08:29 PM.
#82
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Ok well she starts right away now so the start issue is fixed but now it’s definitely an oil leak issue.
so since I tightened OMP lines, when I started her, oil pressure was actually 60psi at cold start. Usually before it was 30psi.
I thought maybe it’d be fixed but once the car warmed up it started smoking from the turbo area. Maybe rear ish turbo area.
maybe It’s just old oil being burnt off from the massive leak it had before or maybe it’s a leak. I think the next step is to buy some UV engine oil dye and throw it in there to find the leak.
question, if my turbos are shot, are the bnr upgraded turbos drop in replacements for stock? Or do I need to tune for them? Not looking for more power just want to stay stock but I’m sick of buying used shitty turbos. I want something fresh and new and be done with it
so since I tightened OMP lines, when I started her, oil pressure was actually 60psi at cold start. Usually before it was 30psi.
I thought maybe it’d be fixed but once the car warmed up it started smoking from the turbo area. Maybe rear ish turbo area.
maybe It’s just old oil being burnt off from the massive leak it had before or maybe it’s a leak. I think the next step is to buy some UV engine oil dye and throw it in there to find the leak.
question, if my turbos are shot, are the bnr upgraded turbos drop in replacements for stock? Or do I need to tune for them? Not looking for more power just want to stay stock but I’m sick of buying used shitty turbos. I want something fresh and new and be done with it
#83
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I think BNR is back selling. They may have stopped for a while.
When you tightened the OMP bolts, did you check the o-ring. It could be missing, bent , or pinched.
Oil leaks towards the front can certainly blow back.
All the gaskets on your oil lines to the turrbo are OK, right?
. We found we had forgotten to tighten up the nuts/bolts unjtil after we put everything in.
I was still able to tighten from underneath.
1/12th of a trun at a time.
When you tightened the OMP bolts, did you check the o-ring. It could be missing, bent , or pinched.
Oil leaks towards the front can certainly blow back.
All the gaskets on your oil lines to the turrbo are OK, right?
. We found we had forgotten to tighten up the nuts/bolts unjtil after we put everything in.
I was still able to tighten from underneath.
1/12th of a trun at a time.
#84
Full Member
Thread Starter
I think BNR is back selling. They may have stopped for a while.
When you tightened the OMP bolts, did you check the o-ring. It could be missing, bent , or pinched.
Oil leaks towards the front can certainly blow back.
All the gaskets on your oil lines to the turrbo are OK, right?
. We found we had forgotten to tighten up the nuts/bolts unjtil after we put everything in.
I was still able to tighten from underneath.
1/12th of a trun at a time.
When you tightened the OMP bolts, did you check the o-ring. It could be missing, bent , or pinched.
Oil leaks towards the front can certainly blow back.
All the gaskets on your oil lines to the turrbo are OK, right?
. We found we had forgotten to tighten up the nuts/bolts unjtil after we put everything in.
I was still able to tighten from underneath.
1/12th of a trun at a time.
I’ll check the o ring tomorrow, also yeah when I got under the car to drain oil, I saw the oil return lines to the turbos, I can try to tighten those.
my plan is to run dye first though to know exactly where it’s leaking from and then tighten or replace the corresponding gaskets on the leaky areas
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Redbul (03-06-24)
#85
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Quick question,
the only oil lines that involve turbos are the 1 feed line that splits into two that connects via the top and then the two oil return lines under the turbos? That’s it right? So total of 6 nuts I’d have to tighten?
besides that if it’s still leaking it’s gotta be an internal turbo leak right?
the only oil lines that involve turbos are the 1 feed line that splits into two that connects via the top and then the two oil return lines under the turbos? That’s it right? So total of 6 nuts I’d have to tighten?
besides that if it’s still leaking it’s gotta be an internal turbo leak right?
#87
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Different angle. I checked the oil feed line that feeds into the rear turbo from the top and it’s dry. Even tried tightening it. Oil dye arrives tomorrow so hopefully that gives a better clue.
#88
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Car is running now right? Is there any oil droplets being blown out the exhaust pipe and/or blue smoke?
Hard to tell from the picture, but is oil leaking out from the axles where the actuator lever arm connects through to the flap door in side the turbo?
If that indicates oil is leaking to inside the turbo, oil may also be blowing out that back (but it might nut get that far).
As the turbo gets hotter any oil inside would likely begin the burn and manifest smoke in the exhaust.
Is there any sound of exhaust escaping out around the axle?
If he oil line gasket are worn out or damaged, tightening those bolts/nuts will not likely be enough.
Be mindful, overtightening could cause the bolt or stud to snap, causing further trouble.
Hard to tell from the picture, but is oil leaking out from the axles where the actuator lever arm connects through to the flap door in side the turbo?
If that indicates oil is leaking to inside the turbo, oil may also be blowing out that back (but it might nut get that far).
As the turbo gets hotter any oil inside would likely begin the burn and manifest smoke in the exhaust.
Is there any sound of exhaust escaping out around the axle?
If he oil line gasket are worn out or damaged, tightening those bolts/nuts will not likely be enough.
Be mindful, overtightening could cause the bolt or stud to snap, causing further trouble.
#89
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Did you track whether the overflow tubes still connects from the oil filler tube down to the air intake elbow in front of the front turbo?
You want to eliminate that as the source of oil inside your turbos, because other sources may indicate a cracked turbo housing.
You want to eliminate that as the source of oil inside your turbos, because other sources may indicate a cracked turbo housing.
Last edited by Redbul; 03-06-24 at 10:47 PM.
#91
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Upper oil feed line has banjo bolts with washers.
Lower oil pipe has gaskets both ends. This pipe seems closest to the leaking area in your pick.
tLower right two piece oil pipe has three gaskets gaskets. These gaskets could also be your leak source.
Last edited by Redbul; 03-07-24 at 12:37 AM.
#93
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Hey redbull and everyone
so I put the dye in there and let it run for 15 min then shut it off, I got under the car to take pics and look for the oil leak and it looks like it’s leaking from where the exhaust of the turbo bolts onto the motor? I could be wrong with what that is but I assume so from my primitive knowledge. I will attach a pic. The dye makes the oil bright green and you will see what I’m talking about
so I put the dye in there and let it run for 15 min then shut it off, I got under the car to take pics and look for the oil leak and it looks like it’s leaking from where the exhaust of the turbo bolts onto the motor? I could be wrong with what that is but I assume so from my primitive knowledge. I will attach a pic. The dye makes the oil bright green and you will see what I’m talking about
#96
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#99
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The top dot is where the overflow pipe from the oil filler pipe usually connects. Check to see if the hoes is still connected there or if the nipple is capped off. Check to see if the nipple is cracked at its base. The other six green dots are where the oil return lines have gaskets. Are ny of those points near where you see your dyed oil coming out, or could be a source from above? If you are going to try to tighten or loosen off any of the nuts/studs for the oil return line connections, yu might want to use liquid wrench (or similar) before attempting.
Last edited by Redbul; 03-08-24 at 07:37 PM.