sorry for the redundancy, but after reading the first and last page of the last thread on this, i am now dumber..

so this trailing plug eliminator thingy..... what's it all about?
i'd assume getting rid of conflicting flame fronts--or something to that effect.

can anyone WHO HAS ACTUALLY USED THE DEVICE please tell me their opinions on it?

can you atually run afr's well into the 12's under boost?
advance the timing?
use the lower octane fuel?
etc..

please guys--no opinions from anyone who hasn't used it. i've seen it trashed by lots of guys not willing to try it. i just want a straight heads up on people experienced with it.

thanks

 

ok....maybe i'll just keep checking the other thread then

 

you dont need some stupid piece of crap device to run AFR's in teh 12's. Hell, Im at 12:1 at 8000 RPM.

 

Read the first quote out loud with one hand on your right ear, then as soon as your done reading it outloud cover your left ear right away. Maybe then it will sink in to your head as to what he had asked...
Granted i did not contribute to this thread and i am doing the Ls1/Fd swap so i really dont even belong here, but when i was rotary powered and my engine blew this device just came out. Seeing this thread made me want to hear how it functioned,,,not how someone with a stick in his *** says its a stupid POC and its not needed right after the poor fellow politely asked people not to!

 

here's an idea i was thinking of:

obviously, i need to do a lot more research into it, but if there are advantages to not having the trailing plugs fire, why don't i just turn them off under boost?

i could use a normally closed relay as power for the trailing coils, then dedicate a pwm output (from the haltech) to turn them off at whatever boost level i want...2psi, 5psi....wherever. i could even use a boost switch from pick n pull..

i think this may have an advantage as under light load, and cruise, the trailing coils would still be working--giving better fuel economy and lower emissions (if you care)....then they'd shut off under boost--doing whatever it is the "anti-det."device would have done.

i guess a big advantage of the device would be that there's not a lot of room left to build up carbon--reducing hot spots, and blah.....

but if the trailing coils were firing any time you weren't under boost, there shouldn't be carbon buildup anyway.

 

do you not like timing or something? hehehehe.

 

^ no he likes water injection .

 

ahhhhh.
i like alcohol injection.....in my belly

seriously though... i'm kinda curious to try this--it's just hard to come by info. good info, that is.

if anyone's in so cal and wants to try it, i'll hook it all up--i just don't wanna be responsible for the consequences.
we could try it on a motor that has already popped a seal, but still runs--that way if i'm wrong and it blows up, it's not too big of a deal.

anyone wanna add some critisism to trying the way i described? you don't have to flame me or call me names, but can anyone think of some drawbacks?

 

Why dont you just remove the trailing wires and run it like that, if you want to test it.
Im running these plugs right now and the car runs great. Gas mileage is around the same and the car seems to run smoother. You are not going to hurt your motor trying this. Just dont run a lot of boost without tuning and you have to watch your EGT's.

Jason

 

my point was to have the trailing work until you reach boost. that way you still get the benefits from having the trailing coils in the fuel economy area, and the cost effectiveness of not having to buy the plugs. not to mention, less (or no) carbon buildup that could create hot spots and no-no stuff.
although YOUR milage may not have gone down, that's not to say the car isn't less fuel efficient. my rx7 is my daily driver. i've put over 20k miles on it in the last 5 months. i get low 20's for fuel economy when i'm just cruising--i wanna keep it that way.

 

I realized what he asked and frankly I dont give a ****. there are 10,000 anti detonation device threads. If he wants to ask a question that has been answered 10,000 times, I think I can write in this thread

Is that ok with you?

 

Its tuned at 12:1 without water injection. I got water injection about 6 months after the tuning. 12's AFR's are safe, dont believe the hype.

 

obviously, i already checked other threads, did my searches, and still didn't come up with a whole lot of useful information. if you don't have any advice, no problem. just don't say anything so it doesn't get to be 10 pages of rambling.

but i'm curious about your setup. what are your
turbo,ems,total timing advance, intake temps, etc. if you don't mind sharing

 

interesting...

 

I bet you have some sort of a cat...don't let people believe you can run 12's all day any mods any boost.

 

I have a mid pipe, pfc (tuned), 1200CC injectors and a fuel pump , ported engine, 3mm seals, etc among other crap.


but i'm curious about your setup. what are your
turbo,ems,total timing advance, intake temps, etc. if you don't mind sharing

Stock turbo's, I think he said the timing is 17 degrees, but I dont know for sure as I didn't tune it. With my water injection the intake temps stay ambient no matter how hard I drive. Without water injection. Im within 15 degrees above ambient after being in the highway for awhile. It heatsoaks fast in bumper to bumper traffic.

I guess I should clarify, my car was professionaly tuned, I'm not saying to change your a/f to 12:1 unless you know what you are doing.

I also ran 89 octain about 3 weeks ago, but that was with water injection.

 

how about your intake temps (on the PFC) and AIT location? I'm just curious to compare with mine.

Also, what IC are you using?

 

without the water injection the intake temps are nearly identical. aftermarket location is under the elbow next to the alternator.

with water injection there is a difference during stage I as the aftermarket sensor is prior to the water injection at that point. When stage II hits, the aftermarket intake temp drops as well.

Again, its almost pointless to discuss actual temps as climate, etc plays a role.

I have a Blitz SMIC.

 

so you're on the stock computer and turbos?12:1 is really lean--i'm wondering why it doesn't go.--you gotta have some trick up your sleeve.

 

NO I have a power FC. The stock computer cant control 2ndary injectors or give enough fuel for a midpipe/ported engine.

Im saying I dont think 12:1 is lean, im not saying try to mod your stock car. The first mod anyone should do after the downpipe is the power FC.

 

i've got this thing about pfc's....
i think super afc's are more useful--other than timing control. (keep in mind i hate s-afc's too)
i'd rather get what i got--haltech.

but you didn't answer the timing question.

 

I told you I THINK its 17 degrees, but I dont know I didn't tune it. off topic, but does the haltec control the emissions control system such as ACV/Airpump? How bout the Oil Metering pump? I got this thing about haltech too, haha.

 

emissions? LOL

if you were really into that, you could dedicate the pwm outputs to activate the solonoids. as far as the omp goes, i'm an fc guy anyway, so i just use the s4 front cover with mechanical pump.

sorry about the timing thing--i guess i didn't see it, but i swear, i looked and didn't see that post before.

anyway, this is EXACTLY what i didn't want to happen... no imformation and another wasted thread. can a moderator close this one and i'm gonna try one more time to start a new one.