I just purhased a amemiya type B REDOM 8-bit ecu on ebay from a Japanese store RHDJapan for my 94 rx-7. It is supposedly for a 93-95 rx-7 with minor mods. However, i'm having major problems! The car will run and idle with the stock ecu, but I can't use it since I have a midpipe and downpipe and intake. With the amemiya ecu, the car idles at around 3000 rpm, and that's if I can get it to start! Usually, it's real real hard to start and if it does start, it dies real quick, like it's being flooded out or something. Is there any way to get this new ECU to work with my car? I just paid over $300.00 for it and I have a car that won't run!

 

Sounds like you got a bad ecu....you can pick up used Pettit/M2 ecus here for $400 or so.

 

Hrmm thats weird. Well make sure you have the AWS capped. The japan cars do not have this option.

Other then that talk to Patrik from RHDJapan. He's really good.. hell I bought my ECU from him. Pretty much the same setup. Mine runs perfectly though...

 

Have the AWS capped? How do I do that? I'm not sure what the AWS is. Any info would be greatly appreciated!

 

I managed to cap off the AWS, and it idled great using the amemiya ecu! However, now there is a new problem. I decided to take it for a test drive, and whenever I give it gas, it bogs down and sputters. Any ideas?

 

I had a Knightsports ECu that did this, I would like to know why this happened too because it worked ok on one car but not on another!

 

I decided to place back in the stock ecu, and just not take the car over 3000 rpm until I get a new ecu. So, I stuck the factory ecu back in, and now the car is idleing an an unsteady 800-1200 rpm and bogs whenever I give it much gas. It's also smoking. It was working with the stock ecu just yesterday! Did I foul the plugs?

 

Open the ECU and look at the boards... chances are you have a burn spot on one of them.

I'm assuming once you start to give it some gass it sputters and back fires? I had this problem on a stock ECU... it ended up being that a spot on the board had burned up. Pretty much was a non-repairable issue. I HOPE that is not what you are experiencing.

Again look around some on the board see if there are any burns on the board. Also talk to RHDJapan. They are good people and may even know the fix.

 

are you sure that the ecu is not for different size injectors? did you happen to take off your UIM or TB recently, because i had that happen once with my pfc, the car would hold idle at 3k rpm then try to fix itself and then eventually die. i forgot to tighten all the bolts on the UIM

 

The stock ecu looks good. I have a theory... is it possible that the aftermarket amemiya ecu was flooding it, and I fouled the spark plugs whenever I pressed on the gas, and now with the stock ecu it's running like crap because the plugs are fouled? I'm ordering a new m2 ecu tomorrow, and am hoping with new plugs and the new ecu it will work correctly. I sure didn't end up saving my though. For the 2 ecu's i've bought, I could have almost bought a power fc!

 

I bought an RE-amemia ECU and went though similar problems. After contacting the seller a couple times he suggested that I try high octane fuel since these ECU's are tuned at 99to 100 octane(Japanese fuel). I tried 103 from VP(still had about 5 gal's in my tank), but it did not make much of a difference. I wonder if I had to reset the ecu, maybe it was knocking and the knock sensor retarded timing and added fuel as a precaution thus the breaking up. If anyone has any knowledge of this please help. By the way how can I contact Patrik from RHDJapan.

 

The big thing is you really don't know what the ECU is tuned for - it could be set up for larger injectors, a different MAP sensor, all kinds of things that will cause the car not to run.

The octane thing is bunk - Japan just rates their octane differently. PowerFC's from Japan plug right in and work great on 93. Not to mention it doesn't matter what octane you have for light load/idle - if it was tuned for higher octane, you could get knock under load, that's it.

I'd get the car fully warmed up and running well with the stock ECU, then unplug the negative battery terminal, hook up the RE Amemiya ECU, connect the battery, and give it a try.

Dale

 

You could also try removing the same pins the PowerFC requires. Here's Dale's writeup on removing them...

https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-forum-47/how-pulling-pins-ecu-connector-424626/

and the pins to remove...

http://westpenn.rx-7.org/ApexiPFCpinout.htm