banzaitoyota

Care to back up that statement?

93BlackFD

0 pressure as well, meaning if you lose coolant pressure, it won't boil, it will just slowly lower the level

if it boils over, it is absolutely certain that you will lose coolant no?

i see the pros/cons, but i still run 50/50 glycol

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

You don't understand, Mazda made the counterweight for the RB flywheel. RB does not make counterweights, they buy them from Mazda and supply them with the lightweight flywheel.

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

That is a blanket declaration without anything to back it up except for a doctorate degree (unspecified field) and process water chemical experience. No facts or real life experience to back this disparaging remarks either. At least give us some examples. I have yet to seen anyone give an examples of failure that can be attributed in part to NPG+.

I tend to distrust people who touts some doctorate degree in a very narrow specialty. A buddy in Ohio told me that Honda goes one step further with this: they donot hire PhD in the R/D dept unless it is something very specific that they absolutely must do. Reason? don't know but I would guess the inability to be open minded about other things.

I am running the evans NPG b/c I've lost 2 motors over the last 10 years with all different combination of EG/water. I've even tried the Dexcool but got suspicious that it's eating elastomeric seal caused I kept seeing this black crud in the cap. I stopped and lo and behold Chrysler and other OEM moved away from DexCool.

The one thing that has been constant for me is that the cap can never hold its rated pressure: every cap that I have used lost its rating over 3 mos. of use. I have about 10 stant caps and 3 OEM caps laying around to attest to this. Thus, my suspicion is that the 50/50 is boiling b/c of the inability of the cap to maintain pressure. I need a coolant that doesn't require a strict adherence to pressurization for maximum protection of the cooling system. Hence, NPG+. And NPG+ has been around long enough that enough data has been accumulated to support its use.

For me, the high boiling point, low pressure, no cavitation, no electrolytic reaction outweighs the benefits of water/EG. For now at least. NPG+ seems to operate just like regular coolant except that on shut down, the temp rises higher than 50/50. I think that this has to do with 50% lower conductivity of NPG relative to water/EG. Consequently, I'm installing this electric pump.

Who knows, may be if the NPG+ can't control temp in the summer, I'll go back to 50/50 but at least I'm keeping an open mind about it and willing to be a guinea pig.

Garrett

I work with a whole squad of PhDs (psychologists). The more I get to know them and there "eccentric" opinions, the more I grow weary of their status being blown out of proportion. Makes me wonder…

Definitely not looking forward to the social life I'll have IF (and it is a huge "if") I get my PhD

Sorry about getting off topic. I am very apprehesive of a Doctorate being thrown around backed by nothing but vague notions.

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

Well I don't want to disclose my source (without his permission) other than to say he has a 400+rwhp FD that is exclusively used on the track.

Also I wonder why it is OK to have such high coolant temps with EVANS? 230-240F seems to be OK, the only defense Evans users have is to say "hot spot" elimination.

Well say if your just sitting in traffic with a 240F degree motor, Evans or EG, there won't be any fewer hot spots with Evans, in fact I'd guess the Evans would have "hotter" hot spots due to the much LOWER thermal conductivity. Local hot spots would be an issue for tracking the car since the cooling system is having to get rid of a lot of heat and much of it is coming right from the area after the spark plugs. In traffic and most low speed applications the cooling system is not rejecting a lot of heat.

As far as the coolant cap stuff, radiator caps are not rotary only technology, they shouldn't have a problem holding pressure over time and don't to have a problem in most other types of cars.

Oh and the way it reads, you got Chrysler and other OEMs to stop using Dexcool...

banzaitoyota

Couldn't get ahold of Rob today, I did talk to andy and Chris (?), someone finally put JOEL on the line who told me to "run some PRESTONE block sealer"

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

What about with a high pressure cap? I asked my friend that builds customs cars and he told me I should still run a pressurized cap and he doen't understand how they recomend a 0psi cap. He's never used it himself. What does he think about the Viton o-rings?

I've used the Prestone (oatmeal) and CRC block sealer and my housings where nasty when I opened my block.

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

Block Sealer? I'm not sure about the specific type like Prestone, but I've seen turbo coolant hoses partially plugged with block sealer. It also tends to gunk up the entire cooling system.

Mazdatrix strongly recommends against using block sealer.

banzaitoyota

No ****! Surprised me to hear that coming from ROB via Joel at Pineapple Racing. Makes me wonder what they (Pineapple) will do to "fix" the problem.

93BlackFD

i wouldn't run block sealer in my radiator, but i have *never* put this in my cooling system

rob tore my motor down and it had block sealer in it, the source? koyo radiator....most new radiators come with block sealant in them in case they have small holes from the manufacturing process

weaklink

So what this means is that all FDs have block sealer in them from radiators that were once new?

93BlackFD

eh, new koyos would have block sealant in them, according to his testimony

anyone want to sacrifice $400 to find out?

banzaitoyota

Here is a video, taken 2 weeks ago when I suspected I had a problem. Its worse now. The vid was taken after the car had been idling ~ 5 minutes. Had to go in the house and retreive the camera

http://www.rotaryinnovation.com/IMAGES/Cap0001.mpg

banzaitoyota

Just got ahold of Rob. He is going to go thru the engine and tranny again. e asked me to perform a couple of quick tests before I pull it out. Will keep everyone posted. He is also concerned about the dyno results I had with this engine. John

93BlackFD

what was he so busy doing?

93BlackFD

well i talked to rob, apparently he was looking at my motor, he's still not too positive what to do with it

he says all signs point to lack of oil

and that's fine, i trust his investigative work and i'm sure he knows what he's doing, but when we pulled the motor it was sitting on F (oil wise)

so i'm having a hard time deciding who is at fault, or to be more specific, what is to blame

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

I think that Rob should cover the engine.

Your build up was publicized in the forum and from what I can see you're a real ****-retentive person with the install. So the weight of the install is on your side.

The tear down reveals a lack of oil. He can't possibly say that you didn't put oil in the engine or ran it low. If this were the case, you would have spun the bearing and the motor would have seized instead of losing compression.

Furthermore, engine failure is not rocket science. You can generally figure out why it failed. In this case, lack of oil. Your job as the engine owner is to make sure the crank case is filled with oil and to drive responsibly. End of your duties. His job is to build an engine that delivers oil from the crankcase to where it's needed. If it's not delivering oil then it's the engine builder's fault.

So the burden is on him to prove that you fucked the motor up. If he can't prove it, it's on him to give you another motor otherwise his warranty for five years is worthless: he might as well say a 20 year warranty. I think it's great that you publicized this and have remained objective about it. I mean if this were me, I'd be filing a lawsuit as soon as I got back from Oregon, subpoena him and everyone of his employee to fly in and testify locally in Virginia about every rebuild procedures - but hey that's just me ...

SPOautos

Hmmm, I dont know there is more to the oil system than putting oil in it. The oil coolers and lines need to be clean and installed properly. The oil injection system needs to be installed and hooked up properly. There are quite a few parts in the oil system external to the engine that could fail or be installed wrong and cause problems

I'm not saying you installed things wrong cause I havent seen it but I can understand Robs side as well about not wanting to jump right on building the engine that will prob be very expensive since the houseings are probably toast.

STEPHEN

93BlackFD

well, i understand rob's position as well, but i pressure checked my oil coolers/lines like he requested, and they held fine

he wants an oil sample tested now for bearing material evidence

i was very attentive when reinstalling, and i'm confident in my end of the deal, but so is he

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

Oil cooler line come out of the filter to the cooler then to the sump. The sump has a coarse filter at the pickup so it's got to be really really dirty for it to clog.

When I did my motor, I used air to blow oil out of the the cooler and installed new lines just in case, but any dirt should be picked up by the sump which would be evident upon tear down.

The oil injection system lubricates the apex seal so if there is no oil injection, your apex usually dies, which isn't the case here.

It's not apparent here but it doesn't look like it was rob who built the motor. ANd how much more investigation is he going thru? from what I could see oil wasn't drained into a clean container for analysis so why even bother? Just cut open the oil filter to see if there are debris in the oil system.

Like I said, the burden is on Rob to prove that you fucked up during the install. That it ran for 1500 miles meant that it was presumably installed correctly. My experience with pistons when I used to manage a shop is that if the installs were done wrong, you'll see its results within about 100 miles, and more likely within a few miles or an hour of start up.

93BlackFD

well i think what he's getting at is was an oil cooler line snagged or cut or popped loose for whatever reason

that would cause oil pressure loss

the reason he wants the oil analyzed is to see if there was long term wear to the bearings

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

Quit screwing around and look at the turbos. If the turbos aren't chewed up then they didn't starve for oil.

If the turbos ARE chewed up then they either starved for oil or just ate the junk that was obviously flowing around in the oil system due to chewed bearings.

93BlackFD

no, the turbos spin fine, shafts look awesome...already checked that out

potatochobit

iTrader: (1)

i can host your pictures if you want. i have lots of space on yahoo. i may reformat them to save kb though.