This is for a reliable daily driver, keeping in mind most of the suspension components have already been purchased. I plan to attend a few drag and race track events but nothing major.

Components purchased already:

Koni Sports
Eibachs
Brembo X-Drilled/Slotted Rotors with cadmium plating
Mazda OEM bushings(I didn't want Poly cuz of squeaking and rough ride)
EBC Greenstuff Pads
G-Stop Steel Brake Lines
Efini Y-Pipe
HKS Downpipe

I'm looking for low mid to low 12's. Possibly 11's if it's possible on this budget, but if isn't "fairly" reliable I don't want to even try it.

What would you buy and why?

 

Of that list, i would stick with the downpipe. I would definitely go with engine mods before suspesion. The stock FD handles really well. Maybe a couple of them, but there are FD's with stock suspensions hitting those #'s, so i'd stick to engine mods

 

You got the downpipe already - best for first mod.

Do all the reliability mods first - (AST removal or aluminum, plugs and wires, fuel filter, vacuum hoses, etc) - then do you modding

11s on drag radials or ET streets can be had on the stock turbos at 14-16 psi.

You'll need to get:

any exhaust since they all basically same hp (10-15 rwhp)
hi-flo cat or midpipe (midpipe if you really want 11s)
ACT clutch
Power FC
Intercooler (M2 ICs won't work with the Efini y-pipe) so you might have to go with a Greddy or PFS or get a fmic but they're expensive
any intake
Fuel pump and 1300cc injectors

other odds and ends but this will help you get there

 

Well...that list is currently sitting in my living room (well, everything but the y-pipe and rotors, but they're on the way).

 

If you want reliability and somewhere near 11sec do the ultimate engine mod.......

Can you say 20B 3 Rotor turbo!!!??

 

He said he had a budget, not a full bank account!

Basically, do as everyone has listed already.

[Safety]
-Boost Gauge
-Water Temp Gauge
-Downpipe
-AST Tank
-New/Colder spark plugs
-Fuel computer (I recomend something like a remapped "Pettit Unlimited". This gives you no worries of messing something up, while running very safe.)
-Vacuum lines
-BOV

[Cooling]
-Radiator
-FMIC (Drag Racing / Street Racing)
-SMIC (Road Racing / Endurance)
-Greddy Elbow (goes with either FMIC/SMIC)

[Performance]
-Intake system
-Catback Exhaust
-Pulley Kit
-Ignition Amp (ie HKS Twin Power)
-Boost Controller
-Midpipe

[Driveline]
-ACT Clutch system
-Flywheel
-Short Shifter
-Kaaz Diff
-PPF (If you can find one)
-Chromoly Axles
-4.33 / 4.77 gear

Etc..

 

Archangel, we've talked about this before so'll I'll go over it for other people.

Motor rebuild $2-2.5K
Clutch $450
Injectors cleaned and flowed, new seals, probably need bigger secondaries for low 12's. High 12's the stock ones will do just fine. $100-400.
Fuel hose recall kit $75
Pulsation damper $80
Motor mounts $320 (stockers)
ECU, M2, Pettit, PFC $350-1000
New coolant hoses $150
Silicone vacuum lines $50
DP $200-300
Cat-back $250 used $550 new
Radiator $425 Fluidyne
IC, M2 med $1500 new, PFS $700-800 used.
Drag tires on extra rims $400
Etc...

It gets spendy...

This is a list with some realistic, if a bit low prices. Keep this stuff in mind when wanting to run low 12s while being reliable. This is not an end all list, most of the things needed, I'm sure I missed some stuff.

Jeff

 

Scrap that spring/shock combo ... that's garbage. You can address the suspension with a real coilover setup (not some groundcontrol, etc. sleeve crap) when the time and finances come.

 

Welps...the spring/shock combo will stay...if I don't like it, then I'll switch it later. From everything I've researched it's an okay combination if you're not road racing 24/7. I don't need to be able to have 20+ settings of freedom yet.

Thanks for all of the ideas...and yes Jeff, we have been over this before.

I'm just looking for all the options and a smattering of opinions.

Thanks gentlemen...

 

Uh I didn't notice that you bought Koni's. You will probably have a problem with rubbing with the Konis and Eibach springs. The lower spring perch is lower IIRC on the Konis, this lowers the car, using the Eibach springs will lower it a little further. It might be too much and the tires will rub the upper part of the fender liners.

DK, not everyone needs a "real coilover setup". Actually hardly anyone needs coilovers. Most people get them just to be able to add it to their "mod list". The handling capability of a stock FD is more than most every driver here can handle.

Jeff

 

Ya...

Well dangit..you know.when I bought those Konis and Eibachs it was after reading dozens and dozens of posts in this very forum.

I tabulated a list, and counted quite a few people using THIS spring combination. I did a search on Konis and Eibachs and noone had ever said anything about rubbing.

If necessary, I guess I could get the fenders shaved or something(underneath). I guess I'll have to see.

The other people were either Tokico Illuminas, Tein HAs/RAs, and there were a few other people running the more expensive stuff, true coilovers.

Bah...I guess using this forum for purchasing ideas isn't so great ALL the time.

 

Archangelx my 93 rx-7 is a daily driver, passes all emissions in Maryland (dyno test) and just ran a 12.06@114 on stock sequential twins (80,000 miles) and a high flow cat. Totally reliable, day to day.

I use PFS gear: the PMS, medium stock mount intercooler, intake, downpipe, high flow cat and cat-back. I also have a ported motor and a Centerforce clutch. Mid 12s easy. Great tuning gets you low 12s - or maybe even 11s, if the Gods are willing.

 

I have to disagree here. You can get a greddy fmic cheaper than an m2 smic. Look around and get what you think will work best with your setup and what you want out of the car. If it is strictly drag racing then a fmic, intake, pulleys, remove a/p, clutch, dp, mp, cb, PFC, fuel pump, injectors, 13-15psi and you should be low 12's possibly 11's. Shouldn't cost all that much. Plus if you are getting a new motor anyways then get it mildly street ported for a little more "mucho gusto"

 

Welps..that was fun. I think planning is the best part of all of this..heh. Oh..and the end result.

Hey, Jeff..I'll give you a call later with all of the intricate details...

I just finished talking to Rob at Pineapple. I'm going to get the base rebuild with the 5yr/60k warranty, a small street port, stage 2 oil mod, and a tranny rebuild for $450 to $1,050. He's going to check the flywheel, and resurface if needed, plus all of the other miscellaneous crap.

I'm looking at about a max of $4,000 for the entire rebuild depending on what happens(not including the installation, hose job, bla bla).

Depending on what happens, he's probably going to give me a core exchange, or rebuild the current engine. The core exchange would kick butt, cuz I could just bolt it right in without having to wait for him to rebuild my current engine.

He offered ceramic apex seals, but said I only would want them if I plan on doing some serious modifcations to the engine. I said I don't plan on going nuts...just a reliable daily driver that possibly could run low 12's with the correct add-ons and tuning. I've decided to place most of the modifications on hold...concentrating on the engine and tranny first, and building from there.

I've decided to do all of this at the beginning of January (after all of the hoopla of the holidays) depending on Jeff's schedule.

Then I'm heading to XS to get the tuning done up after engine break-in...That should leave me enough cashola on the spot to get the car up and running..and then I can finish it out from there. 7k should do it all...4k for the motor and tranny rebuild...3k for the install and miscellaneous parts plus labor. If not..I've got a little more play also to add the rest of the 10k if I need it.

Does this sound like a plan? Anyone notice any thing I should count on (yes I've considered a possible turbo rebuild).

I'm not planning on a drag racer straight up, I'm looking for an all-around daily driver capable of nice straight line speed, and decent corner carving...

 

Thanks for the info, tcb100!

That's pretty much what I'm shooting for...thanks for giving me an idea of what it takes!

 

Well you can always try the setup and see if it rubs. The car had 17" wheels so maybe that made the rubbing a little worse. The problem was greatly reduced by adding a spacer between the upper spring perch and the body.

You can't "shave" the underside of the fender. When you come down I'll show you the Koni/Eibach car that had the rubbing problem. THere is nothing to take off above the wheel.

Jeff

 

Ah...egad..

That sucks...from what I understand of how tires and rims work, it's still the same diameter regardless of what size rims you use...it all equals out to the same size, correct?

What do you think of the engine rebuild? It's a bit more than what I think I thought of originally, but I've decided to just bite the bullet and get it all done correctly the first time.

Sound alright?

 

Make sure you have the Koni's set to the highest perch, this will be the same ride height as stock. Then you should be fine with the Eibachs, a lot of people run them. Worn ball joints upfront can also cause rubbing. If you want an extra bit of reliability, I'd ceramic coat the dp. The key to reliability is all in the cooling, keep the engine and engine bay as cool as possible, you can never have too much.

 

Sounds like a plan. When you say "get it tuned" what type of ECU are you planning on running? M2, Pettit don't require any tuning. PFC and PMS do...

Well my 275/40/17 tires are about 1" larger in diameter than my 245/45/16 race tires. The diameter also varies from manufacturer to manufacturer even if they are the same size.

Jeff

 

Hmm..

Welps...Personally, I was thinking Dyno Run at first to see how hp I'm putting down....

Rob at Pineapple suggested that I go with something along the lines of a Power FC for tuning, just to make sure I'm not running too lean.

I also have an Apex'i S-AFC that I'm going to see about using for the fuel richness.

 

Hey guys...just wanted to say that the highest perch with the Koni's set to soft and the Eibachs is working out great.

It's practically stock height, and everything is running great.

Jeff, I'll give you a call probably this weekend, so we can plan everything out.

Can't wait to get this show on the road.

Also..one question 95 turbo's will work on a 93 engine right? No changes?