Ok, after extensive searching on the timing and specific operations of the airpump, i'm going to have to ask... i know a lot of people have eliminated the airpump so you can ignore me on this.

my questions:
1. when does the airpump engage and disengage? idle to 3,500rpm right?
2. does the airpump inject air to the exhaust manifold and CAT only? not intake?
3. what happens if the airpump was hard-wired to be 'always on'? my search turned up that Mazda only turned it off at 3,500rpm because emissions no longer needed it; this right?
4. ecu controls the airpump through...? i have an issue with mine!
5. does the airpump have an internal power generation system? i.e. i could just ground it against the block? someone suggested this in a thread.

ok, so when i start my car from cold... the clutch on the airpump engages for about 2 seconds, then cuts off! it doesn't start again unless i manually ground out the wires that run into it - which improves my idle and drivability to no end.

that makes me wonder, if my ecu engages the clutch on the airpump for 2 seconds, the wiring is right... so why does it turn it off and not operate it correctly? is the ECU picking up a sensor issue or something? do i need a new airpump? i'd think not because of the substantial improvement in idle pointing to it working.

so, knowing all this, what happens if i hard wire the airpump to a switched ground? that'd mean it'd be active right up to X,XXXrpm - is that gonna kill the pump, or emissions or anything?

 

1. The airpump engages from idle to 3200 rpm.
2. The airpump is belt-driven. It has an electro-mechanical clutch to actually be spun. The clutch is engaged from idle to 3200 rpm. If you are having a problem with your electrical system (alternator dying), the clutch will not engage.
3. Wiring it to run all the time will probably burn it out.

 

ok, on #2.
does the fact it engages for a couple of seconds after start-up negate the electrical system as a contributor?

 

I would say no. Time to check to see if your alternator is working properly.

 

roger, will do tonight!

 

If you have a Japanese import the airpump shuts down at 2600-2700rpm.

 

Everything you wanted to know about the airpump operation.

 

I'm having problem with my airpump too. when I first start up the car, the airpump runs fine. but after it's warmed up, it disengages during idle... sometimes when I rev it, it engages sometimes not... but for sure when I let off the gas, it engages... could it really be my alternator dying? how exactly do people wire it up so it stays on all the time? I measured the voltage and it read 14V at one of the pins in the connector. isn't that enough voltage to keep it running? I have a Optima red top battery now

 

can adjusting Idle or TPS raise the amps of the electrical system? just thinking...

 

hay man howz it? i just got rid of my airpump, makes it look alot better, what year fd you got? and mods?