areXseven

iTrader: (1)

My FD has a mid-pipe. The air hose that would normally be connected to the main-cat is plugged. QUESTION: Does the Air Pump provide service for anything else in the car? If not, then i'm taking it off (to help anchor the boat for when Hurricane Claudette hits . Thanks

JadedX

if you take the air pump off without an aftermarket ecu it will throw codes and your **** wont run right

air pump is just for emissions

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

That Sucks.!!

DavidDeco

It's just there for the cat. I'm not sure about it throwing codes, probably true.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Are you running a midpipe and using the stock ECU?

Marshall

What about the ACV valve?

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

I've driven the car over 2k miles since the time of purchase 2 mounts ago. The Cat hose was/is plugged. Why hasn't it "coded" me since? What else is it connected to? Thanks for your advise/comments.

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

Mahjic: Roger That on the mid-pipe and stock ECU.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

That's not a good combination. Keep your eye on your boost levels and make sure you aren't having boost spikes and/or boost creep.

Removing/unplugging the air pump on the stock ECU shouldn't throw any codes (at least ones that will make the check engine light come on). However, your idle will get extremely bad and make your car want to stall. If you search through the forum, there are ways of tricking the ECU to think the air pump is still there (by using a resistor).

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

Mahjik: That's whats so wierd. I never had any problems associated with excessive boost. The car was bought with precat to mid pipe to HKS supper dragger muff set-up. Boost pattern was/is 10-7-10. Iv'e got the car on jacks waiting for the DP to get here for the install. Maybe then (after DP install) will I start to get the infamous "boost creep/spikes)?

Street King

Taking off the air pump will not throw any codes. You can use a resistor but I'am currently not using one. It only effects the idle like you have a small port. I can run the a/c all I want or not, it has never stalled on me.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The precat right now may be enough restriction to keep that from happening. However, I would recommend getting a boost controller in the least before adding a downpipe.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Interesting.

Well, you are one of the very few that doesn't have a problem with it. When I was on the stock ECU, I unplugged my air pump to see where a noise was coming from... Took it on a drive and the car almost stalled twice, idle was horrible.

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I think (know) I'll be buying a BC real soon.

"IF" I don't obtain excessive boost (above 12) after the DP is installed, does that mean something may be wrong with my set-up, i.e; Turbos or vacuum lines?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Not really. The stock ECU should enable fuel cut which should stop excessive boost levels. Fuel cut has it's "gray" areas where it won't enable fuel cut such as boost spikes. With a boost spike, the boost doesn't stay at the highest point long enough for the ECU to react. It is possible to spike high enough to cause an extremely lean condition. Boost controllers can stop boost spikes, however, not boost creep.

However, don't use fuel cut as your safety defense.

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

Mahjik: What is the MINIMAL cost associated with a QUALITY ECU upgrade? And will that upgrade in itself be sufficient to prevent major problems associated with excessive boost problems and engine failure? Thanks for your help and expertise.

Street King

You can buy a Chipped ecu (M2 or Pettit or G-Froce) and these will take care of you for all the bolt ons.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The most minimal ECU upgrade you could do would be to look for a used M2/Pettit/G-Force ECU. These are reprogrammed stock ECU's. They will allow for more boost, however, they still can't compensate for boost spikes or creeps. They, just like the stock ECU, will have a fuel cut (higher than the stock ECU) but it will work in the same manner.

The ECU in itself will not prevent overboosting.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Word of advice. After the dp install, watch your boost gauge like a hawk when you're WOT. I crept to 13 psi on a hot day and 15 psi on a cold day, and this was *with* a ported wastegate. I also had a tuned power fc so it wasn't a huge deal. The Boost Controller is a good purchase (I agree you should get one) but it won't do jack squat for controlling creep. Spike yes, creep no. In order to get rid of the creep you either need more exhaust restriction, a ported wastegate, or a very ginger right foot .

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

I'll just have to wait till the DP is installed. I'll get a better pic as to what my next steps are going to be. Thanks to ALL of you that participated!