Air Pump Removal - Main Bearing Stress?
So I know there's a big thread related to this topic but I'd like to open up a sort of new (to me) line of thought on removing the air pump on my FD;
I'm converting to a single turbo and wanna delete the air pump. The thing is, I don't want to buy an idler pulley unless I absolutely have to. The reasoning I've heard behind getting an idler is it keeps the eccentric shaft from being pulled too far in one direction and making contact with the main bearings and prematurely wearing those out. So is this a fairly well documented problem with not running an idler or could I potentially just run a much shorter belt?
Big thanks guys,
Andrew
I'm converting to a single turbo and wanna delete the air pump. The thing is, I don't want to buy an idler pulley unless I absolutely have to. The reasoning I've heard behind getting an idler is it keeps the eccentric shaft from being pulled too far in one direction and making contact with the main bearings and prematurely wearing those out. So is this a fairly well documented problem with not running an idler or could I potentially just run a much shorter belt?
Big thanks guys,
Andrew
^This. The only external cause of front bearing wear and failure that I’ve seen documented was from over-tightening the WP belt (after removing the air pump) in an attempt to keep it from slipping and making noise. Installation of the idler keeps belt contact on the WP pulley and avoids that.
^This. The only external cause of front bearing wear and failure that I’ve seen documented was from over-tightening the WP belt (after removing the air pump) in an attempt to keep it from slipping and making noise. Installation of the idler keeps belt contact on the WP pulley and avoids that.
As a side note, have you always wondered how tight your belt is? The belt tension gauge that Mazda recommends is a monster, too big and way too expensive. The inexpensive little Kirkit gauge is just the ticket for a crowded engine compartment like the RX-7. Amaze your friends and satisfy that inner engineer in you and find out what your real tension is:
I have seen first-hand evidence of the problems with not running an airpump idler pulley.
- Bad water pump bearing and erosion in water pump housing, both had to be thrown out.
- The side the e-shaft was pulled towards showing lots of copper in the front bearing
- I have heard of spun bearings but not personally seen this.
Those idler pulley kits aren't much, Pineapple Racing and Full Function Engineering make really nice kits that aren't too pricey. As a bonus it's MUCH easier to find a belt in the correct size. Had a buddy lose a water pump one year at Deal's Gap and shredded the belt. Went to a parts store in rural North Carolina and picked up a new belt no problem. Got a water pump from a guy at the rally and back in business.
It's just foolish to try and get around it at this point. Seriously the only downside is the reasonable price it cost to buy one, everything else is a positive.
Dale
- Bad water pump bearing and erosion in water pump housing, both had to be thrown out.
- The side the e-shaft was pulled towards showing lots of copper in the front bearing
- I have heard of spun bearings but not personally seen this.
Those idler pulley kits aren't much, Pineapple Racing and Full Function Engineering make really nice kits that aren't too pricey. As a bonus it's MUCH easier to find a belt in the correct size. Had a buddy lose a water pump one year at Deal's Gap and shredded the belt. Went to a parts store in rural North Carolina and picked up a new belt no problem. Got a water pump from a guy at the rally and back in business.
It's just foolish to try and get around it at this point. Seriously the only downside is the reasonable price it cost to buy one, everything else is a positive.
Dale
Trending Topics
I ran a twin turbo set up with no airpump and no idler for a year or so, being careful to not over tension the belts.
My water temps would rise very quickly at high RPM, presumably because the belt was slipping past the water pump pulley. I eventually fitted an idler and my water temps were much more constant, though I'm looking for a way to get rid of it or find another solution because it doesn't leave much room for an air filter on single turbo.
My water temps would rise very quickly at high RPM, presumably because the belt was slipping past the water pump pulley. I eventually fitted an idler and my water temps were much more constant, though I'm looking for a way to get rid of it or find another solution because it doesn't leave much room for an air filter on single turbo.
I didn't watch the whole video but looks like it should give you an idea if it would fit your turbo---->
FD Idler pulley conversion kit
Last edited by Sgtblue; Apr 30, 2018 at 02:06 PM.
Just bit the bullet and picked up the Pineapple Racing kit. Only reason I went with them is for the same price as the FFE kit, Pineapple included a belt, whereas FFE wanted an extra $20 for a belt.
Thanks for all the advice, folks!
Thanks for all the advice, folks!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
petree_777
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
22
Jan 30, 2016 10:13 AM
ILoveJDM
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
2
Feb 11, 2011 04:26 PM
coneklr
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
8
Feb 1, 2008 06:09 PM






