air pump removal belt
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,393
Likes: 0
From: Austin, Tx
air pump removal belt
I need to know what size of belt do I need when I remove the air pump. I think is a 300mm but not sure. If anyone knows the part # it would help a lot too.
I popped two 300k3 belts, they're to loose, you need a 295 for a tight fit so it doesn't slip and get hot to pop like mine did.
Ever since I installed a 295mm never got any slipping/winning problems.
Ever since I installed a 295mm never got any slipping/winning problems.
Originally posted by AMRAAM4
the Greddy kit from rx7store.net? Does that water pump pulley have a lip on it to hold the belt.
the Greddy kit from rx7store.net? Does that water pump pulley have a lip on it to hold the belt.
I have a 300k4. I ground a bit of metal off the alt bracket to add a little more tension to the belt. The entire operation took about 15 minutes to complete. I'm surprised more people don't go this route instead of spending silly money on pullies.
Trending Topics
Going to a shorter belt and grinding more from the alternator tensioner bracket will still leave you with reduced contact on the WP pulley. There's an alternative now that wasn't as widely available then....an idler pulley to replace the AP.
No....not for everyone.
But I suspect that most owners don't need to underdrive and an idler to replace the AP makes sense...functionally and financially. You can keep the stock belt (and stock width), save the money you'd spend on an underdrive pulley set and put it toward the idler pulley. In doing so you still keep full contact with the WP and still gain the space taken up by the AP. You also avoid possible issues during high electrical load and slippage during start up and high rpm. There was also this .... https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/here-what-happens-when-you-remove-airpump-810990/
So for most owners removing the AP, it's worth it IMO.
But I suspect that most owners don't need to underdrive and an idler to replace the AP makes sense...functionally and financially. You can keep the stock belt (and stock width), save the money you'd spend on an underdrive pulley set and put it toward the idler pulley. In doing so you still keep full contact with the WP and still gain the space taken up by the AP. You also avoid possible issues during high electrical load and slippage during start up and high rpm. There was also this .... https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/here-what-happens-when-you-remove-airpump-810990/
So for most owners removing the AP, it's worth it IMO.
thanks sgtblue, that thread helped out. now i gota see if he is still making the idler pully airpump replacement. ps, try a desert eagle 50 cal and a daniel defence AR for back up!!
Haha, ah yes the good ol' .50 Desert Eagle. The calibers large mass and weak ballistic coefficient leave it with absolutely no armor penetration and very little kinetic energy to transfer into the target, even .45s can penetrate better... I'm more of a .40 man myself, good balance of penetration and stopping power, but if your into revolvers .357Mag is the way to go.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Skeese
Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS
65
Mar 28, 2017 03:30 PM
12abridgeport
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
2
Aug 17, 2015 06:28 PM







