potatochobit

iTrader: (1)

im gona have to replace my clutch soon.

so what all do i need?

i was thinking preassure plate, clutch disc, pilot bearing.

do i need to replace the release/throw out bearing?

also i heard there is a fork inside here that breaks often? what is that called and how much will that cost?

jsplit

may as well do a flywheel at the same time if that's something in your plans...

potatochobit

iTrader: (1)

i have a light steel flywheel when i put in the reman motor, but ya im gona resurface it also.

potatochobit

iTrader: (1)

i was thinking about doing the same as SCC

Using a stock, organic disc and a 35 percent stiffer pressure plate, the Mazda Competition clutch offered excellent driveabilty coupled with improved torque holding capacity over the stock clutch.

where can i get this mazda competition preassure plate? this is the race club only gear sold by mazda?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Depends on your budget.

- a good clutch kit will include the pressure plate, clutch disk, alignment tool, and throwout and pilot bearings. The pilot bearing seal is needed and comes from Mazda.

- Clutch fork has been upgraded, consider getting the new one.

- Flywheel, if you want to change to a lightweight model. Definitely check the engine block bolt torques when it's off.

- Upgraded shifter select spindle is easy to do with the tranny lowered.

- upgrade 5th synchro (although that might double the time to do the job)

Naturally, plan for getting tools. Pilot bearing puller (borrow the Mazda one if possible). Socket and air impact for the flywheel nut. Transmission jack for the tranny.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Clutch fork .
Front and rear trans. seals.
Shift select spindle (if it hasn't already been upgraded).

J_J

If you are looking for an OEM replacement clutch, I have one that includes everything you need for the clutch itself...alignment tool, new throwout bearing, new pilot bearing, pressure plate, clutch disc. $140. I guarantee you will be spending close to twice that for all these parts.

potatochobit

iTrader: (1)

how much is this?

i may be interested j j i still have to consider my options

anyone use the spec clutchs being sold at rx7store?

what is the main difference between organic clutch and kevlar?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

The spindle is like $65 or so. I just bought one from Malloy, but it appears the previous owner already changed it, so I didn't use it. If you want I'll sell it for $10 less than Malloy's price (I have the receipt at home).

Dave

potatochobit

iTrader: (1)

i'll most likely take it dg gime a day or so to sort everything im going to do.

potatochobit

iTrader: (1)

does the slave cylinder need to be removed when the transmision is taken off? i dont remember where exactly it is. i was thinking about getting the steel braided line to the slave also.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

No....at least the line doesn't have to be disconnected. It just has to be unbolted and moved to the side.

danny hahn

what upgrade was done to the clutch fork? did they beef up or make the bracket differently?

On another topic, got a question, when you drop the tranny and remove the flywheel your in a position to check the torque on the rotor housing tension bolts. Has anyone encountered the need to re-torque and if so, how many miles?

I wonder if this would be a preventive maintenance measure on the coolant seals?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Supposedly the new fork is reinforced in the area where the roll pin goes.

I for one did not find my block bolts were undertorqued. They were just fine (reman, 12k old)

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

FWIW, I replaced my clutch fork. But when comparing the new fork to the old, I couldn't see a difference. Still, it was only about $65 and for me anyway, cheap "peace of mind".

danny hahn

any noticeable difference in play?

a member, pugg57, was looking for one to copy, - make with better materials.

danny hahn

double post

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

No, no discernible difference in play. They both felt the same as well, with approx. the same spring tension and weight, although I didn't put them on a scale.
FWIW, I've got my old one if pugg57 is interested. Just PM me. I'm almost certain it's the OEM from my 93. The car only had about 55k on it at the time, there was no evidence the transmission had ever been dropped and clutch and PP were still OEM .

fd0

iTrader: (8)

Don't forget the tool to align your clutch:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/ftools.htm

potatochobit

iTrader: (1)

so what exactly is this?

Transmission Front Cover

i need to replace it also?

and exactly where does the trans rear seal go? i need that too?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Transmission front cover is a metal sleeve that bolts down over the front oil seal. It does not ordinarily need replaced.

Rear oil seal is right underneath the shifter where the driveshaft comes in. To change that, you'll need to drop the driveshaft which should already be done if the tranny is dropped. Change it.

I sent that spindle out today USPS priority mail.

Dave

hv_lineman

[QUOTE=dgeesaman;3974613]Depends on your budget.

- Upgraded shifter select spindle is easy to do with the tranny lowered.

QUOTE]

What is done to upgrade the shifter select spindle? I ask because I have my tranny out and I'm replacing a bunch of parts and wanted to make sure everything possible has been done (besides rebuilding the tranny of course) so I dont have to drop the thing again anytime soon.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

You buy a new one and bolt it on. It's two bolts.