Ah! Cooling problem.
#1
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Ah! Cooling problem.
heading to work this morning, just like any other... full coolant in the car. i take it up to 90mph... give a quick scan of my gauges and see that my temp gauge has rocketed to the high white mark (****!!!). i put on the flashers, turn on the heater, slowdown to about 40mph and crawl to my friends house stopping along the way to let the car cool. there it will stay until im off work today.
symptoms:
1) heater stopped blowing hot air before i got to my friend's place
2) coolant filled and purged out of the overflow tank (add coolant buzzer came on a few minutes after the overheat sign)
3) fans switched on late (even with parking lights on)
4) clicking noises coming from driver side of the engine compartment after shutdown
i searched and searched.... i dont know what happened but the car will sit until fixed. i may run the CRC block weld to be safe after this episode is concluded.
please help... im freaking out b/c the engine and turbos are less than 3000 miles old (still under warranty)
symptoms:
1) heater stopped blowing hot air before i got to my friend's place
2) coolant filled and purged out of the overflow tank (add coolant buzzer came on a few minutes after the overheat sign)
3) fans switched on late (even with parking lights on)
4) clicking noises coming from driver side of the engine compartment after shutdown
i searched and searched.... i dont know what happened but the car will sit until fixed. i may run the CRC block weld to be safe after this episode is concluded.
please help... im freaking out b/c the engine and turbos are less than 3000 miles old (still under warranty)
#2
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Originally Posted by Nghtstlkr7
(still under warranty)
Get an aftermarket water temp gauge BEFORE driving the car after the new engine goes in.
#3
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Well a shorted fan relay could definately cause your temps to go up, but you said the fan turned on at the end. I wouldn't do the crc fix until you get a pressure test. No sense in dumping something into the system if doesn't need to be there in the first place. Test it at idle and see if the temps start to climb again. Good luck.
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Originally Posted by zmarko
That's a good thing, because your engine is most likely toast.
Get an aftermarket water temp gauge BEFORE driving the car after the new engine goes in.
Get an aftermarket water temp gauge BEFORE driving the car after the new engine goes in.
#5
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Originally Posted by zmarko
That's a good thing, because your engine is most likely toast.
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#8
this happened to me just recently...there was a leak in a heater hose that just flushed down and when i was heading home at 4am...TEMP GAUGES just went striaght up the ***...and i heard the ticking noises too. i tried and sealed the hose a bit and i test drove it again and it didnt happen again. maybe a leak?? that you didnt know about...or yeah
#9
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yeah this happened early in the morning when it was still cool outside (65degrees). i had good airflow over the engine (99 front bumper, vented hood). my friend mentioned heater hose problems or the core itself... what do you think
#10
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Originally Posted by obviousboy
doesnt anyone make a gauge that blinks or goes ape **** when a preset temp is hit?
i would love to have one like that set it to 245
i would love to have one like that set it to 245
www.egauges.com carries them. They have one for my VDO that would trip at 230F which is perfect.
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Originally Posted by zmarko
That's a good thing, because your engine is most likely toast.
#12
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Originally Posted by DamonB
Yes. You can get temp senders that also have a switch built in. Basically the sender drives the gauge and when a preset temp is hit there is a switch that closes inside the sender. You can use that to trip a buzzer or an idiot light. I plan to do it but have not gotten around to it.
www.egauges.com carries them. They have one for my VDO that would trip at 230F which is perfect.
www.egauges.com carries them. They have one for my VDO that would trip at 230F which is perfect.
sweet im gonna need to get that....cause my car hit 233 the other day and im glad i noticed it..
#13
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Originally Posted by Nghtstlkr7
i realize that.... so how long have i got? the car didnt stay in the red zone for longer than a minute however.
who knows u might be lucky since your engines is still new and ur coolant seals can hold up, but not guaranteed
mike
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like i said, less than 3000miles on the engine so all the seals are brand new. im hoping that they can take some excessive heat. and i also stopped to let the car cool every half mile or so. im going to replace every coolant hose in there after i get paid.
now tell me... should i run the CRC or not?
i wont have rebuild money for at least six months... this engine needs to hold out until then. what can i do?
now tell me... should i run the CRC or not?
i wont have rebuild money for at least six months... this engine needs to hold out until then. what can i do?
#17
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Not until you positively determine that your seals have failed, otherwise you will be replacing a radiator, along with other some other cooling system components when the CRC clogs them up after time. Don't automatically assume that your "engine is toast". Determine the cause of the coolant leak, and then go from there.
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gotcha.. thanks for the input.
im having the car towed to my mechanic to have the entire cooling system checked and replaced.
im having the car towed to my mechanic to have the entire cooling system checked and replaced.
#20
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hmmm same thing happened to me... but good thing i saw it b4 it reached the HOT on the temp gauge... maybe check your AST? (if you still have stock one) my went out when that happened.....also Radiator hose is good check =D good luck, hope ur engine is fine though
#21
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that makes two of us. it would be tragic to have to rebuild a 3000 mile engine. some are saying that it might not be that bad. i guess b/c the seals are new. but like i said before... the engine just needs to last long enough for me to get back to the east coast and have enough for the 20B conversion.
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