Railgun

Ok. So I did some searching and didn't find a whole lot other that a few companies that actually sell fans (which I already knew) and where to get them.

I upgraded to a Blitz FMIC and a PWR rad. and have fitment issues with the stock fan assembly. They smack the x-member and there's no way they can get wedged into place.

My question is directed only to those running similar setups and is this...

What fans are you all running and how do your temps look? Should time be taken to seal the fans around the rad, or are your temps ok enough to not worry about it?

Don't care how good it looks for now, I just want the damn thing to work.

Thanks all in advance...

Snook

iTrader: (12)

I have heard that that stock fans flow the most air and have witnessed someones car have overheating issues with "aftermarket" fans

Try to make it work

Do you know the answer to my question?
does it matter if you switch the connectors for the fans?

Railgun

I know they flow better, but its not going to work. I looked and decided that I'm not going to start hacking things up just to get them to fit. The PWR is twice as thick as the stocker and at the angle it's on, no dice.

Define "switch the connectors."

reza

you have to swap(left to right/upside down) the braces for the radiator, this will put the radiator lower. If it cannot go lower, you have to lower the ac condenser as well. This is common for upgraded/thicker radiator.

Railgun

Are we talking with the brackets that are in the kit? I installed it per the directions, but that's for the stock rad. As far as the A/C stuff, that's been removed. I'll look at it again next time I go over there. But if it drops, that's probably going to mean that I have to fab up some brackets for the top side.

reza

My kit does not come with any bracket (PWR). So what I did is to switch the stock radiator bracket from left to right and flip it up side down. This way the radiator is lower...

Railgun

Sorry, I meant the IC kit. That's what I thought you were talking about. I assume that you fabricated some brackets for the top of the rad? I'd imagine that's the only way you'd get to mount it after that.

Thanks for the info...

Railgun

Ok, even if I flip, it wouldn't work. Has ANYONE run into this? I'd need to eat about 2" off the fan housing. The bottom of the motors smack the x-member that sits in front of the motor. Flex-a-lite fans can pull 2500 CFM. I think that's plenty, but I dunno about mounting depth. I'm getting conflicting info from the flex-a-lite site and jegs (the latter claims about 2 more inches of depth).

Any other suggestions?

Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

If you swap the left and right brackets on the radiator you will gain nearly 2" of clearance. The brackets are on the side of the radiator, little "L" shaped metal pieces with slots for the bolts to secure them to the radiator and to the framework of the car.
Is dropping the radiator 2" (straight down 2", not moving it 2" toward the back of the car) what you need? If not then you need to explain it again.

NewbernD

iTrader: (1)

I have a Blitz FMIC, and a Koyo (which is thicker than the PWR I believe.) To top it off I have an R1, so the extra oil line is in the way too. I made it all fit.

You don't want to flip brackets or anything because with the Blitz, the IC and the Rad meet at the top to seal the airflow. I did eliminate the crossmember and trim the front corners of the crossmember mounts to get enough room to get it all in there. I believe I had to bolt the fans to the radiator and then put them in to have enough room.

It does fit, though. If you need pics of something in particular, let me know.

*edit*
Oh yeah, and I did have to make a new upper bracket because the radiators thicker.

Railgun

Finally, someone with a similar setup. Cool. I was thinking about killing the x-member too, but I didn't know how bad of a thing that would be. I was talking to my tuner about that too. That and new oil cooler lines mounted to the sway bar. Guess that's the way to do it. Either pay for the fans or cooler lines. I pm'd you with my email address. I'd like to see some pics!

Thanks!

NewbernD

iTrader: (1)

I didn't get a PM from you (forum is acting up lately) but I didn't fab new oil lines either. I bent the stock oil lines to fit. I'll look because I think I've got those pics.. Shoot me an email and I'll sent them to you. With a little patience you shouldn't have to spend any more money.

badass7

What about the '99 upgraded Fan Blades ? Anyone do that mod yet ?

rynberg

I can't believe that people would remove or hack into structural crossmembers (it definitely serves a purpose) just to install an intercooler.

NewbernD

iTrader: (1)

I have a hard time believing that the crossmember in the engine compartment is a structural piece. It's a rather flimsy piece of sheet metal that's bolted in with 4 6mm bolts through slotted holes. It's definitely not a precision fit, and it's not strong.

I'd believe that it's there to provide a mount for the battery tray, for the AST and stock IC bottom, and support for AC lines that cross the compartment there. I'd be scared if that was supposed to provide structure to the car.

Now the folks that chisel through the welds of the front crossmember I might take issue with. They're removing welded structure to replace it with an aluminum acordian and 2 bolts.

jdhuegel1

I have them. Have yet to do any real testing on them other than turn them on high and see what they sound like.. There's a nice argument... I mean thread around here somewhere... Lemme see if I can find it.

jdhuegel1

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=fan

rynberg

It's not strong in shear, but who's to say what it does in compression or tension. You may be right about it just being a support for the stock IC and battery tray, but then again, you may be wrong. I just don't think it's worth it just to install an intercooler that really doesn't work that much better at cooling air than an SMIC that doesn't require hacking anything....

NewbernD

iTrader: (1)

I think that I can say with a fair amount of certainty that due to the very minor way it's attached to the body (sloppy slotted bolt holes, small bolts) it provides next to no significant rigidity to the frame. I considered replacing the cross member with a steel bar or some angle iron but the more I thought about it and analyzed the stock piece I realized how silly it was.

As far as SMIC/FMIC, there are much more compelling reasons to stay with SMIC.. like shorter intake path and less internal volume. I wanted it out of the engine bay and didn't want to dick around with ducks that didn't fit right. But that's another thread all together. To remove or not remove this piece should be just about last on your list, unless you need to mount an AST or Battery on it.