This is my newbie question of the day.

I'm thinking about getting a Reman engine...if I want to change the flywheel, what is the best approach.

when I built my last engine, I had the rotors and counter weights balanced together.

What are the odds of slapping a counter weight and flywheel on an already assembled engine and having it REV smooth to 8k?

If I decide to drop the reman in...I'd reseal the pan, and in doing so, I could remove the front cover and swap front counter weights (along with another mods)...what about the rotors? They won't be balanced to spec with these counter weights.

If I crack open the reman, I will be modding quite a bit more than I'm ready to admit financially. But is that the only sure/true way to get a smooth revving engine with a lighten flywheel?

Come AWN Mazda, why no rear counter weight?

 

I don't know why you would need to balance the entire assembly...doesn't make sense to me.

People stick lightweight flywheels on all the time on existing engines, what's the difference?

 

That's basically everyone's problem when moving to a lightweight flywheel. No one takes all that stuff out to have it balanced when only upgrading the flywheel.

IMO, you'll be fine.

 

the way it was explained to me was...The front counter weight balances the rear rotor and the rear the front rotor.

If I throw on a counter weight that was balanced to a particular rotor on a different engine, I don't want unnecessary vibrations at higher rpms.

And I've also been told some reman's have been known to be let loose with blank front counter weights.

I'm trying to judge if the 12mo/12k mi warranty is worth it (because I will give that engine hell)...worth it enough to use the stock flywheel??

These people you speak of...are they tossing on blank counter weights or what? I personally haven't driven a car with a flywheel just tossed on.

 

The past place that held the reman rebuild deal for Mazda was known for some quality problems. I believe Mazda only hands out 2 years contracts on the rebuilds but another shop has been doing the rebuilds for the last year or so. I have not heard of any quality problems with the changed shop.

If you get a flywheel like the Racing Beat, it will come with the counter weight. If not, you can just use the automatic counter weight.

 

that's good to hear about the quality.

so you don't recommend me using the counter weight I have that is balanced to a particular rotor in another engine?

I'm trying reverse some of the SMS I've created (slippery mod slope) and have a peppier street car...and I think a reman could be a good start, but that stock flywheel is wigging me out, ha!

 

Your front counterweight will be fine (and they don't supply those with flywheel kits). Its the rear one you'll be in need with the lightweight flywheel (some kits come with them, some don't). The stock flywheel has the counterweight built into it (which is why you need one with aftermarket flywheels).

 

I know, I know...the REAR counter weight I'm currently using with my CURRENT light weight flywheel on the engine that is balanced and in my car right now...if I want to swap it over to a reman, should I get a new (blank) counter weight to use or do you think I'll be okay with using a balanced one (the one I already have)?

sorry if I wasn't clear before.

 

AH, in that case, I personally would probably use a new one.

 

DUB did your engine go? I hope not man I love your car, its such a neat setup!

 

^no, the engine is fine (for what it is)...the transmission clutch fork broke about a month ago, and I'm looking for a new set-up while in the middle of all this work. Smaller ports, dual ball bearing CHRA...more aggressive/accurate tuning. Look at this tool that just came in!!!

I've dropped my camera one too many times
When I built the engine I cheaped out on the expensive parts, due to not knowing if it would fire up. It's been great to me for 13k miles...and probably wouldn continue to be okay. It burns dirty (emissions and blow by) due to my clearancing the side seals and not fully understanding the shape.

now-a-days, new housings are around $850 a piece and rebuild kits are $1200...although Ray can get slightly lower prices, its just as cheap to get a reman which comes with many more new parts and housings. It's almost worth more to me to not "try" again but to get a reman with a warranty.

As my interests for the car have changed...I think I can get an enviromently friendly quick street car with stock ports and a BB single.

 

You won't regret installing the light flywheel.

 

^are you also for a new "Blank" rear counter weight?

 

For the price I would say just go with a new counterweight. Why not? You dont wanna have a problem (you probably wouldnt) that you could have avoided easily and farily cheap. Look at all the people who run aftermarket flywheels and counterweights with no problems.

 

Hm. Has your existing c/w for your light flywheel been modified in any way? I am not too familar with the balancing process, but they may not have actually changed the weight of your counterweight. Inspect it once you pull the motor.

Honestly, if they did lighten the cw, you're probably better off going with a blank one. I bought one from Ray not too long ago for around 120 bucks. It would suck to install everything and then have problems due to a lightened/altered counterweight.

FWIW, I have seen many many blank c/w's and light flywheels installed on remans with never one problem (none of them were dynamically balanced).

I just recently installed a Fidanza alum flywheel (8 pounds i believe) with used FD c/w into the existing (3k miles) motor in my vert with no problems. She revs smooth as buttah

 

Unless you plan to drag ....

 

you can see the weight taken out of the CW here...and similar on the other side.

lightened it probably by grams or fraction of grams.

terrible photo I know...I seem to have lost many build up pictures

 

i got one for my TII vert, it came with counterweight to attach to it. it revs til redline, smooth like a baby's butt...

 

***this came to me last night while I was trying to sleep...

why can't I order an automatic Reman, remove the torque converter and slap my light weight flywheel on it?

That way, the counter weights are within spec of their respected rotors?

anyone follow me?

 

I think the the rear side housing is different between the automatic and manual transmission motors therefore an auto reman won't bolt up to a manual transmission.

 

I'll have to disagree with your post. You are wrong.

 

The rear housings are different.....but it's the opposite. You cannot use a manual tranny rear housing with an automatic. You can use an automatic rear housing with a manual.

 

What's too light for normal street driving? 8lbs? 9lbs? Stick with 13lbs aluminum?

 

my opinion is 9lb and below is for track only use...of course some will disagree. 13lb is a good mix, rev's quicker, doesn't drop as much during shifts...and you'll adapt as if it were stock.

 

Thanks. I'll try the 13-14lb.