I'm running the 11-lb SR Motorsports one with an ACT S/S clutch and streetported motor. I personally am glad I did not go lighter. To me, 8-9 lbs is too light, especially with a streetported motor, for typical street use.

 

I ran a 9lbs and I felt it was perfect for the engines characteristics... for any other car a heavier flywheel might be better but the 9lbs let the engine drop right where I needed it for revs and such. It is all subjective so I'd suggest you drive cars with differant setups and see what you like the most.

As for the rear housing of an automatic motor... The manual transmission bolts up in exception to two locations, the top bolt hole and on one starter bolt. The starter can be corrected by the use of a longer bolt and a nut.

I used a lightweight flywheel to ease my transmission swap installation (I already had a auto counterweight on the eccentric shaft) and my engine rev'd wonderfully to just over 8000 RPM without a hitch, of course I typically shifted well below that at 7200 RPM but it was fun to wind the motor out a little bit.

_Kris

 

^thanks! that was the info I've been looking for. So you have a spot on the top of the bell housing that doesn't have a bolt thru it?

 

Personally, I would use the counterweight that you already have ............. and that's NOT just because I am a cheap bastard!!! The tiny little bit of balaning they did on it will likely be an improvement on ANY engine's balance.

 

If thats all that was done to the counterweight, I wouldn't worry about it. The tolerances are larger than the amount of material removed. You're not going to feel any change at all. For those that are totally **** about this, you can weld a plug in there....

But I would just put it in and forget about it. I have balanced many assemblies and can tell you that it isn't going to make a difference.