RotorJoe

When I am revving the car in neutral (rev to about 3000 RPMs and it usually takes a few seconds) the ABS light comes on. If I shut the car off it goes away and never comes back. This is the only time I ever see the ABS light on unless I am starting the car. Done some searches I have not seen the same problem. The ABS system, to my knowledge, is working properly. Kicked the ABS in this weekend actually.

Thanks

RotorJoe

ahh, no love.

Jay7 Nyc

iTrader: (3)

check brake fluid or lose connecions?

sszablya

Yeah, check the resistance on the ABS sensor leads, it sounds like one is shorted!! The leads converge in the rear trunk area, behind the panel on the driver's side of the car. It should be easy to check out from there, but beware that the door sills and interior panel on the C pillar/rear cabin wrap needs to come out before the trunk interior panel can be removed.

EDIT: The ABS light comes on when the ABS computer is testing (startup) or reporting (running) an ABS sensor signal failure.

Wargasm

Here's a really random idea to throw out there.

On the tranny there is a neutral switch. It tells the car you are in neutral (duh). Maybe just maybe... it is broken... so when you are revving at 3000 rpm, the car thinks, "wait a minute... this guy is at 3000 rpm... NOT IN NEUTRAL... and the sensors are saying we're not rolling... something is wrong... " ding ding ding! warning light comes on.

* edit * I don't actually KNOW if the ABS computer takes the neutral switch into account, but it would explain why it's "neutral related".

RotorJoe

Hey, good thought. I have aPFC and I will check the if the light comes on when I am in neutral. Off the top of my head I don't think it does, along with my clutch switch too. I can find those wires on the ECU harness and reconnect them. This has been on my "to do" list, just a much lower priority. I will check that when I get home. I'll let you all know.

Thanks

InsaneGideon

I thought the same thing as Wargasm, but after checking the wiring diagrams, the ABS CPU only connects to the ABS wheel sensors, ABS dash light, ABS solenoid, and a brake switch.

The unit will complain about you burning out, or if you've been rolling on a dyno for more than 20s, though .

You can pull an ABS code (from the '95 FSM):
1. On diagnosis connector short TBS to GND.
2. turn Ignition ON. (it should be off before you ground the TBS connector)
3. After a 3sec solid light, it'll flash the code.

Afterward erase the code (removing the battery isn't enough):
1. (same as above #1)
2. (same as above #2)
3. get codes
4. after verifying that the first code is repeated, depress the brake pedal 10 times at intervals less than one second. They can't be cancelled if you press the pedal for more than 1 second, or if your brake switch is screwed up. The light should come on for 3 secs, then off.

BoOsTin FD

Has this problem ever been fixed? I have exactly the same problem. When i rev it in neutral the ABS light comes on. If i shut the car off it goes away... Thanks

turbodrx7

iTrader: (43)

CHECK YOUR BATTERY! i was driving home from work one night when i came over a bridge, it had a little lip and i hit it and it shook the car a little bit. Well every time i got on the throttle, and i hit full boost, my abs light would come on, my lights would flicker. I didnt think anything of it. Well i got home, weiry of it, popped the hood. Didnt notice anything, went to move my battery terminal and sparks went everywhere! My positive had touched my battery tie down and burned the whole thing. Im very lucky the car didnt catch on fire. Just an idea

BoOsTin FD

my battery is brand new and it's relocated to the rear bin... it's been there for like 2 years now.

mad_7tist

is the alt charging? abs is a pretty voltage sensitive sys. pull the code and see where that leads you to

Bi-State Auto

I'm using Somone else's user name here...

how do you pull the codes? I have a 94 FD with PFC.

RotorJoe

No the problem has not been fixed. Its very minor and I haven't dug into it any further.

Nope, thats not it for my issue. I've replaced the battery twice and the connections are solid.

yes, I believe it is. I've watch the voltage under load and no load and it is at 14.5-14.6 volts all the time. So I pretty sure my charging system works well.


I think it is my clutch swtich or possibly a bad nuetral switch/connection. Although I can see the dot light up on the nuetral switch (PFC Check Screen) every time I go into nuetral. I wish I could say the same for the clutch switch. It only comes on every now and then.

Plus I have a problem starting it every now and then. I hit the clutch and trun the key and all I get is a click. Kick the clutch a few more times and she cranks. I think this is my ingniton switch but they may be lionked some how.

Good luck guys I've just been dealing with it, I guess I'm lucky it hasen't become worse.

Joe

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

hey guys, super old thread, i know.

but i'm having the exact same problem, but only after i installed my haltech this weekend...

did anyone ever figure this out?

my ABS light will only come on if i rev over ~5000 rpms, as the ignition also happens to cut out. if i turn the car off and back on, it will be perfectly fine until i rev over 5k again.

really confused.

Gomez

Solution is damn simple.

Don't cane the **** out of the car in neutral.