gpracing

Allright, so I have read every sigle post on the pro's and con's of ABS removal/elimination, including the how-to's, and I think I would have had a better time watching The Lifetime Network. Seriously though........I have an FD that is a dedicated racecar in SCCA ITE and have had the ABS unplugged for some time now. I prefer it that way, and the purpose of this thread is NOT to discuss that choice. What I do want to discuss, is how the removal is accomplished. I have read Rob Robinette's thread about how to add a brake balancer into the ABS system, and I have also read the "how-to" by JSPECRACER7 (if you can call it that). I have all of the tools and parts to complete the task, but am still questioning myself on how to do it. Has anyone personally completed this task 100% and willing to share the info/pictures? It seems like a lot of people talk about it, but no-one does it.

Here is what I think I need to do......Take the Front Right brake line and disconnect it from the ABS system. Run the F-R lline from the pass. side to the dr. side and use a tee to connect it to the Front Left line at the pre-existing joiner. Then plumb the Front line from the master cylinder to the third inlet on the tee. This series of actions eliminates the ABS from the front brakes. Then I would cut the brake line leaving the master cylinder for the Rear inlet on the ABS, and add the Brake Proportioning valve. Then I would run a brake line from the Out on the B.P. valve to the pre-existing joiner that is in the rear line after the ABS system.

Basically I create one line that splits from the master cylinder "front" that bypasses the ABS and goes straight to each front caliper. And I plumb the Proportioning Valve into the rear line leaving the master cylinder, bypassing the ABS and sending the line directly to the rear calipers.

This makes the front brakes 100% all of the time, and the rear brakes are controlled by the balancer..........

Is this correct? Please don't comment unless you have completed this operation yourself. Thanks! I would love to see some more pics!

gpracing

I did it a while ago, just as I stated above, and everything works perfect. Big difference in braking capabilities! Any questions, just ask.

13Joe

Hi there,

Im actually interested in this mod... do u think u can do a write up on this? and perhaps a complete list on the required tools and *parts*. Many thanks in advance... i really a NOOB when it comes to the search thingy.

Joe

NewbernD

iTrader: (1)

I'm curious why you elected to retain the ABS for the rears. Would there ever really be a case where your rears would lock up before your fronts (provided you have the balance adjusted properly?) If you're going this far why not remove the entire system?

rotorbrain

he didnt. . . as far as i read. . . the abs for the rear was "swapped out" for a proportioning valve. am i wrong?

NewbernD

iTrader: (1)

I'm probably just retarded and need another cup of coffee. I saw this line and it got stuck in my head that he was somehow leaving the ABS in the system. Lots of words and no diagrams make my brain hurt.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

i junked my abs a year or so ago...

i replumbed it as you. i run lockheed APs w 13 inch rotors upfront and stock rear brakes. i recently noticed when cleaning the inside of my wheels an absence of rear brake dust.

obviously i am not getting much rear brake.

22 years of SCCA Nat roadracing has taught me the guy who can use the most rear brakes wins. rest assured i will square this away this winter.

it won't be w a proportioning valve as they just decrease brake pressure. i want to increase rear pressure.

the classic fix is to bolt in a Tilton brake adj assembly w separate master cylinders... which has been done. i want to keep the neat stock mazda brake and clutch pedals so i will be doing a bit of additional engineering.

howard coleman

SAMIboarder

iTrader: (2)

*ressurection*(sorta)

Why the proportioning valve for the rear? wouldn't the rear brakes have less braking power anyway due to the smaller calipers? then again, I guess the rear gets alot lighter under hard braking...

then, what proportioning valve do you use for the rear? are there different options?

I would love to do this as my ABS makes me VERY nervous in the rain.

gotorx7

I've read a lot of crap on this forum - but this is the very best!!

Cgotto6

iTrader: (8)

Haha, WTF. Im not sure if that guy knows what hes talking about....Maybe his ABS is severly messed up...

gpracing

The brake proportioning valve is just that. A valve that is used to adjust rear or front brake pressure by allowing more flow, or restricting flow depending on the setting. Basically it allows you to tune the brake pressure so that both front and rear lock up when you want. Turn it one way and the pressure is increased, creating bias, and vice versa. It is plumbed into the rear line because I want 100% in the front, and I want to be able to adjust my rears to lock up when I want. In my race car, I have it set so the fronts lock up barely before the rears. I can now go much deeper into turns and have yet to blister a front tire due to early lock up.

I got the part from Summit, but Wilwood makes the exact same part for more $$.