Just realized I wasn't clear: You lift the rear in braking but you will often lock your inside front. The front only lifts near the apex and through acceleration.

 

The resistor is the "Fuel Pump Speed Resistor" used to reduce voltage to the fuel pump under light load conditions.

Richard

 

Does anyone have any more pictures?

 

Great thread! I love rx7 club!!!

 

Personally I have never driven a car with an abs system that I liked. I don't know why people get all worked up when you talk about removing the abs. I've done it on a couple cars and always noticed an improvement and not scared of the abs locking up when it shouldn't. Its just a little computer back from the sega days lol.

 

It does not simply 'lock up' the wheels at odd moments. Thats not correct.

The ABS system modulates brake line pressure to the calipers, to deliver max braking force, to the point of tire slip. When the wheel speed sensors sense tire slip, the braking force is lessened, and then reapplied to the max, before tire slip begins again. This modulation occurs at such a rapid interval, that the driver may often feel the pedal pulsate or vibrate under his foot. This is the brake system applying max braking effort at the threshold of slip, and backing off again, extremely rapidly.

In the days of muscle cars, when ABS did not exist, drivers were taught to "modulate braking" by pushing the pedal until they felt slip, and then backing off, and then reapplying it again, to bring the car to a stop without a slide.
However this was very hard for the average Joe driver, who simply rammed the pedal down hard, out of a panic reaction, caused the grip of the tires to be exceeded, and the car would go into a slide, causing a collision.
Carmakers sought to mechanize this modulation process, because of the human panic reaction.
Thus ABS was born.
ABS = ANTI LOCK braking.

The brake line pressure modulation signals are rapid, and the ECU senses individual wheel slip based on the wheel speed sensor information, and backs off/applies the caliper pressure more rapidly than a human could.
It does not simply "lock" the brakes on at some random moment. It is designed to fight lockup, by not exceeding the tire grip threshold, as stated above. This avoids a slide.
Unfortunately the RX7 (in earlier years) only had a 3 channel wheel speed sensor circuit, which is now crude and outdated. However, in a straight line, the ABS will stop the FD in a shorter distance than no ABS, especially in the wet. The ABS in idela conditions, will never simply just "lock up" as it fights lockup, no matter how hard or fast you try to ram your foot on that pedal. Lol.

 

Just adding that if you track the car, fine, delete the ABS. Personal preference. You'll probably go faster.

But, as my younger brother found out a month ago, if you disable/remove the ABS on a car that came stock with it, and then you plough up the rear end of a new $60-odd-thousand dollar Audi and write it off, and end up with the occupants of both cars in hospital, and both cars totalled, your insurance company isnt going to want to know you. He now owes 60K, and is liable for the whiplash he apparently caused. I dont feel sorry for him. He drives like a d!ck :p

 

Its not a maybe, you WILL go faster on the track. ^

Your brother probably just panic'd, classic problem with lack of experience. If your never gonna track the car, leave the ABS alone.

thewird

 

Ive had cars with abs lock up the fronts when entering a turn hard but sometimes it wouldn't . The abs system is good for average or spirited driving. But not flat out. I prefer to feel the tires getting ready to give then let off the brakes some instead of going in the turn worrying the abs is going to pulse sending me in a straight line for the rail. And when I say pulse I mean lock, unlock, lock unlock. And I didn't say lock up the wheels at odd moments... It is what it is. Some people like it some don't.

 

I'm glad this topic has come up.

For whatever reason, my ABS was removed during my 2JZ swap project and I currently have a proportioning valve from Summit Racing installed with stainless lines.

I don't PLAN on it being my DD, but it's possible that I might have to..

I wouldn't consider myself a completely amateur driver by any means, I feel that I have very natural driving instincts...but at the same time, I've never been on a track and I'm just afraid that in a panic situation I might end up locking up the rear wheels..

Considering I might not ever track/drift this car, I was wondering what you guys would recommend I do at this point?

Should I just source out a stock ABS or invest in a more efficient ABS that will better handle the power of the 2JZ?

Will the factory ABS still work with my motor swap, or no?

 

If you are scared of panicking then I'd suggest sourcing another abs pump. The abs system is good it's just that when you are pushing the car to the breaking point you can go in deeper without abs. Pumps are easy to find in the for sale section. Hell i've even got one Ill be looking to get rid of as I just removed the unit from my car. I think you are probably better off just getting a stock abs unit and running that. At the most you would have to make new lines.

 

What's all the hooplah about with the newer JDM ABS units?

I think I saw one for sale once, but the price was rather high.

So, all I need to do is source another ABS pump and hook the lines up, is what you're suggesting?

 

Newer jdm abs units have multiple advantages. In a nutshell:
-Electronic brake force distribution, essentially uses the solenoids to vary pressure front and rear for optimal braking performance. 2001-2002 units are confirmed to have EBD and its a mixed bag rather or not the 1999-2000 units have EBD.
-They are ~10 years old vs almost 20
-Have 6 (push/pull) solenoids vs 3 in the USDM boxes. This allows them to act much quicker and more efficiently
-They updated the algorithms to be less intrusive and perform better


As far as putting ABS back in your car, you will need:
-ABS ECU in the trunk to match the pump, there were a few USDM revisions
-ABS Pump/bracket with prop valve, relays, and make sure all wiring is still intact
-Brake lines to and from the master cylinder and abs pump. Not sure how yours was removed, may be easier to buy them from someone parting out a car.

 

Good info^

 

If you have an extra $8,000 laying around you could get the Bosch M4 ABS kit. They are a rather intensive to setup correctly though. You'll see them pop up for sale used every now and then.

 

$8,000 buys you a lot of track time to learn how to brake without abs...

thewird

 

This car isn't going to be on a track. Maybe a stadium parking lot for a local drift event if anything. LOL

 

I hate to bring this up but I deleted my abs in my 94 rx7 and was wondering sense I deleted the abs can I remove the abs computer that's located in the trunk. I was wondering cuz I was looking at removing the abs computer and going to be relocating my battery in the same spot. If so do I just in plug the harness or is there something special I'd have to do?

 

You can remove everything associated with the ABS.

If guys want a good read search under my name for a gigantic ABS battle. Lol

There was a report done which found ABS equipped cars we're more dangerous compared to non ABS cars.


I have been in more than one instance where abrubtly stopping on bumpy surfaces would cause the ABS to kick in and extend the stopping distance. Luckily I haven't had it happen with cars in front of me causing a rear end collision.

 

Autocross and FD ABS do not go well together.

Got completely fed up with ABS going into ice mode and sending me through a well of cones.

The ABS was pulled, 15 lbs were saved, and I learned how to brake properly again.