abs delete ?
 

About to plumb the brakes on my fd. The abs has been taken off. Does anyone know which port on the master cylinder is designated for the front brakes and which the rear.

driver side port is front, passenger side port is rear

Thanks

can you get pictures up after you're done.

thanks!

pass side-rear
Dr side- front

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/p...ediagram-3.jpg

Why do you want to remove your anti lock braking unit? Do you think you are faster than the ABS system? I know from personal experience that the ABS system can feel a little intrusive (the last units that mazda ran on the 2002 FD's were much 4x quicker, less intrusive, lighter, and also provided EBD. Swapping to a newer unit makes sense, but removing the old one is a mistake unless you think you are the stig

It depends on if the unit is activating when the rear locks up, which would then limit your total braking since the fronts would then be pulsed. Unless our primitive abs can actually work for separate wheels (rears will always activate together due to a single wheel speed sensor)

ohh and that super tiny fact of there only being one brake line and a single channel "REAR" on the abs units.

but mostly the wheel sensors. :-\

IMHO a 3-channel system as was fitted in out rx-7's senses the wheel speeds of each of 4 wheels but pulses one 3 sets; each front and rear as a pair. The lock up of one rear wheel thus pulses the two rear wheels reducing the braking effetc of one rear but not of the front two. Since front to rear ratio may go to about 70/30 loss of the full braking of the one rear in an extreme case would be 15% loss, However not only does ABS not take away all braking effect it gains barking on the most loaded locked wheel, so net result may well be better than the no ABS system plus with addition of better balance.

We all think we can out brake an ABS, but holding closer to lockup without the pulsing .. ok but in real world even on trcak all four wheesl are on on the same surface, gravle, dirt, rubber bits, wet, etc. under just one tire will limit you to that tires performance prior to lockup.

wanna donate your abs to me then :nod:

Speaking from experience, the oem ABS will hold you back at the track. If you don't have experience, stop saying your human foot is not fast enough as the computer controlling it. This has been discussed time and time again by people that actually track there cars heavily. There is a benefit from removing the ABS and its not a small one either.

thewird

Do you know of any good threads discussing the pros and cons of ABS?

Did a search, but too many threads.

You're going to need to purchase an OEM Mazda rear line splitter (for use on the line for the front wheels), because you will not likely find an aftermarket tee fitting in the thread and flare style used on these cars.

I thought I would show my set-up.

I made custom brackets to mount the front line splitter sorta where the cruise module sits, and to hang the stock proportioning valve under the master cylinder. Then I bought about $50 worth of pre-made lengths of brake line with the proper flare/thread, and formed them up to link everything together. You can't see it in these pictures but I secured the lines to the firewall and fenders with new OEM single-line brake-line clips from an FC.

The pictures make the line paths look more convoluted than they actually are.

http://www.mcdonaldindustries.com/ja...RAKE-SETUP.jpg

http://www.mcdonaldindustries.com/ja...7/DSC00922.JPG

http://www.mcdonaldindustries.com/ja...7/DSC00928.JPG

I have driven the car about 550 miles like this so far, and it seems to be working pretty good.

Whats the brake line type and thread. isn't it 10mm

Also where did you get your Tee, ive found some cnc 10mm tees.

The tee, as I mentioned, is the stock Mazda rear line tee. So the car has the same tee on the front and rear brake lines. I can pretty much assure you that you won't find a non-OEM tee in the correct size anywhere.

Remember that it is not just the thread, but the flare style that is important. I forget what the classification/nomenclature is for these particular Mazda brake lines, but you can look it up, here, on the internet.

What i can tell its a 10x1.0 double flare.

ABS Delete Kit
 

Guys,

Sorry to bring this old thread to life but is the newest one I found about the subject.

I installed the ABS Delete kit like this...

http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/4...2011201222.jpg

My car is a RHD JDM 94´FD converted to LHD. I know the MC looks different but I don´t really know why.

Now problem is I´ve been bleeding the air out of the system for 2 days with a vacuum bleeder, but the pedal is "Dead" laying on the floor and no brake power.

I removed ABS and this valve as instructed and connected from Master Cylinder directly to brake lines going to calipers.

This valve gone :

http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/1...1122701145.jpg

Under the ABS I found this resistor :

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/1...2011201219.jpg

And under the Intake Elbow I found this connector unplugged:

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/138...2011201221.jpg

No idea what they both are...

Any advice on what to check ?? Or why my pedal is dead ??

Please your kind support.

Thanks..!!!

stupid question, have you bleed the air out of the slave cylinder as well?

is the fluid in the reservoir going down when youre bleeding the breaks?

fluids coming out when you bleeding? how much fluid have you added? have you made sure the fluid always stayed about the min line in the reservoir?

Hi..!!!

Not a stupid question..!! Newbie mistake.....

That´s what i did, bench bleeding the MC and it worked..!!! Air in the MC was the problem...

Thanks..!!!

And about the connector and resistor box above, you know what is it for ??

Just to let you kknow I bench bleeded, vacuum bleeded and pressure bleeded and no pedal feel.

I´ll go with new 929 M/C if that´s the issue...

I've had similar problem before. New MC should solve your problems if you have already properly bleed your system of all air.


Btw, 8 feet of new hard brake line + 4 fittings + 2 connectors + 1 T connector = $55 from local shop. System looks clean as hell now.

Mind the terrible cell picture. I'll get a close up later.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-M...2014.47.18.jpg

Just order a new M/C from Malloy, US$123.62

Bad news is there are no Braker Reservoirs available any more.... Will use the old and ugly one...

In short:

An excellent ABS unit that is tuned for your exact tire compound, can be adjusted for track conditions, and acts on each wheel individually will beat you every time, especially if it is yaw sensing (can help the car turn in).

However, not many stock ABS systems can do this, let alone our one. Stock ABS systems are designed to keep your car stable under braking so you don't entirely lock up and go straight in to whatever you are braking for. They do a good job at this and allow you to mash the pedal without screwing yourself over.

What they don't do is allow for any sort of decent trail or hard braking. When you transfer a ton of weight to a side of the car (say turning in while on the brakes), the laden tires will have much more grip relative to the inside tires. The obvious extreme of this are cars lifting wheels (think VW golf) on turn in. When you do this, the force required to lock up an inner wheel is much (much) less, and if you have ABS, it will limit your total braking force at the amount of your inner wheel. I have often locked up an inner tire at the end of my trail braking at the track while still remaining at the limit (or close, I am no raikkonen) of the cars total traction potential. One race car I drove was particularly bad at this and I kept a tire off the ground from near the end of trail braking all the way through corner exit. Balls fast though (1.5g cornering, 1.1g accel, 1.7g braking).

Now, some ABS units are more sophisticated, but in general they will limit your total braking force for the sake of making sure that you don't plow straight off the road.