Ball joint

iTrader: (6)

Iam about to take the engine out of my fd so I can send it out to be rebuilt. I plan on going non sequential and running a PFC after the rebuild so Iam not worrying about all those vaccum lines. but other then that any words from the wise?

SBi_Owner

Get a digital camera and take pictures of each step you take so you have a guideline of how it came out and the routing of all the parts.

c00lduke

make sure to drain as much of the fluids before as you can. I've made quite a mess a couple times.

Huero

yup the digital camera and your worshop manual are your best friends.
If you need a manual I have one for sale brand new.

Ball joint

iTrader: (6)

I plan on removing everything off the engine all manifolds everything. can this be done with the engine still in the car??. Also I plan on removing the power stearing and AC completely. is there a special tool I need to remove the power steering pump and assembly??

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Do you have an engine stand? It would be much easier to remove most of that stuff outside of the car.

As for special tools, you don't really need any. Airtools will make the job easier though if you got 'em.

CCarlisi

I'm not sure you can pull the motor out of the car AFTER you've removed the manifolds because that is where the rear lift hook is connected. There may be another place to connect it to, but I'm not aware of it.

I pulled mine with the turbos and downpipe still on. It's much easier to get at these items when the motor is out of the car and they don't really impede the removal process.

Mahjik is right, you can take most of the car apart with a 10, 12, and 14mm. However, you will need a very large socked for the flywheel nut. I bought a flywheel lock from Mazdatrix. It cost around $17 and made removing the flywheel much eaiser.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Duh, I completely forgot about that! You are right, one of the mounts is on the UIM. Thanks for pointing that out!

Ball joint,

Here's a picture from an engine pull we did for a local owner a little over a month ago. You can see that pretty much everything is still on the motor:

http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/ho...3/MVC-004F.JPG

mad_7tist

the exhaust manifold bolts will work and just find one one the front i mean with everthing off the engine is like 200lbs. but damn it is so much easier to leave it on and remove it from the engine out of the car. i prefer to do it the book way and pull the harness throught the firewall, fwiw, esp if you are seq or colse to stock. be careful with disconnecting the ac lines. first it is awful for the ozone layer to vent R12 and it will spay mineral oil and **** everwhere. i am with ccarlisi and mahjik take it as a unit. get a big *** breaker bar or a good impact gun for the flywheel nut. GL.

Ball joint

iTrader: (6)

should I pull the tranny with the engine? I mean is it hard to just unbolt the tranny from the engine then pull it? BTW my **** is auto and I really dont want to screw with all that crap.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I would pull the tranny with the engine. Some of the bolts on the bell housing are a pain to get to while the engine/tranny are installed.

I've never pulled an auto tranny, so I'm not sure if it's any easier to separate the tranny while it's outside the car like the manual.

Ball joint

iTrader: (6)

can you get to the bolts? or are they impossible to get to

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

They are not impossible, but not fun. The two on the top of the bell housing are a pain. You'll need to get a long 14mm onto them. Most likely you won't be able to find an extremely long 14mm, so you'll need a slender bar that can go over the wrench so you can torque on it. Once you get it loose, if you have small hands, you can reach behind the UIM and twist the bolts out the rest of the way.

Look between the UIM and the firewall. If want to jam your hand between there to twist out some screws, go ahead. It's much easier if you pull the tranny with the engine, IMO.

I suppose, you could pull the UIM, separated the tranny (without the UIM in the way, you'll have good access to the upper bell housing bolts), then put the UIM back on so you can pull the engine (only to pull the UIM off, again). Too much work for little gain for me.

Custom

Try not to touch Vaccuum hoses, big big headache. ha

BOTTLEFED

iTrader: (1)

I've been working on pulling my motor too. I have been planning on leaving the tranny in the car (5speed). I have also taken off the UIM and unplugged all the connectors. I didn't think about pulling the whole harness through the firewall.
I was just looking at it today thinking,
'how am I going lift out the engine without the lift hooks?'

rfreeman27

iTrader: (5)

Pull the tranny with the motor. It's much easier.

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

It is so simple to pull the harness with the motor. Pull pass side kick panel, unplug harness from ECU, remove the metal guard from harness. That is pretty much it.

On the drivers side, just undo the two big grey plugs near the strut tower, also unbolt the single power cable that powers the fuse box. Both harness go with the motor. It is realitively simple to get the motor and trans out of the car in 4 hrs. I've done it in less than 2 hrs.

CCarlisi

If you pull the motor w/o the tranny but w the harness (this is getting complicated) remember to disconnect the plugs connected to the transmission.

BOTTLEFED

iTrader: (1)

WOW! 2hrs. Next time I'll just pay you to come over here to Idaho to do it for me.

I guess I'll pull the tranny with the motor, since that is what everyone is saying.

I was also looking at the P/S and A/C lines. Where is the best place to disconnect these?

Sorry for highjacking your thread Ball joint, I have been meaning to post some ??, but thought this might help us both.

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

If the AC works and your keeping it then take the pump off the motor. On the PS pump, I do it two ways, I either take the pump off the bracket and leave the lines conneted or I remove the lines, one on top and the other on the back of the tank. If you remove the PS pump it makes it easier to remove the AC pump bolts. There are 4 of them that go through the side of the pump.

bee

All of you thinking of pulling your motor should get the video from rotaryaviation.com, every question posted here is answered in the video. It also covers pulling an auto tranny, its a bit more complicated.

PS, pull the harness with the motor. Just imagine trying to reconnect everything with the motor back in. Its not possible. Well maybe but I would shoot myself before I got if finished. Pull everything as a unit. Who cares thats its heavier, you do have a lift right? lol, your not using the old 5 friends and a blanket under the motor trick are you? Exactly, pull everything in one easy step. Tranny, Motor, Harness, and all the other **** strapped on to the motor.

Ball joint

iTrader: (6)

See now iam wondering once I pull the motor with everything on it when I send it out to RX7 store to be rebuilt should I just leave all that crap on or should I strip the motor down to bar engine??

skotx

You're going to have to strip everything off the engine. I'm fairly certain that they're going to want a bare shortblock.