98 JDM FD Reliabilty Mod Recommendations?
09-23-17, 02:50 AM
#1
Pro Graphic designer
Thread Starter
98 JDM FD Reliabilty Mod Recommendations?
So i purchased a broken down Series 7 RHD 1998 JDM FD.
Currently rebuilding the engine with new apex seals. Want it to be reliable first and a little performance with stock twins.
I've been reading this forum for months. At first i wanted to Bridgeport but soon came to realize it's a bad idea for a daily driven car.
Then came to know that USDM and JDM FD's are quite different, then realized that most of the reliability threads were for Series 6 USDM, while mine is Series 7 JDM.
Looked at many different reliability Mods, the thread from Banzai racing should get the oscar
That being said non truly gave me the perfect answers.
So far these are the reliability mods i've come down to.
FMIC with Polished piping and Greddy elbow
Silicone Vacum kit
Apexi dual intakes
HKS downpipe
Walbro 255
Koyo N-flow. (AST deleted)
16 Bit Apexi PFC+Commander (Searching)
Boost controller
Guages
HKS Twin power
Apexi N1 Dual exhaust or any other quieter performance exhaust (recommendations welcome)
If i miss anything, do let me know.. Like should i get Colder plugs?
Now in relation to Banzai's thread, mine comes stock at 276 hp
So theoretically will push 350+ easily. That being said do i need to upgrade my fuel system?
If so just changing the secondary rail with top feed EV!4 Bosch 1600cc will be sufficient or should i upgrade my fuel system fully with FPR, etc..
I probably will not be doing any further performance mods to push the car, hence the thought of keeping the injectors stock.
Thoughts?
Currently rebuilding the engine with new apex seals. Want it to be reliable first and a little performance with stock twins.
I've been reading this forum for months. At first i wanted to Bridgeport but soon came to realize it's a bad idea for a daily driven car.
Then came to know that USDM and JDM FD's are quite different, then realized that most of the reliability threads were for Series 6 USDM, while mine is Series 7 JDM.
Looked at many different reliability Mods, the thread from Banzai racing should get the oscar
That being said non truly gave me the perfect answers.So far these are the reliability mods i've come down to.
FMIC with Polished piping and Greddy elbow
Silicone Vacum kit
Apexi dual intakes
HKS downpipe
Walbro 255
Koyo N-flow. (AST deleted)
16 Bit Apexi PFC+Commander (Searching)
Boost controller
Guages
HKS Twin power
Apexi N1 Dual exhaust or any other quieter performance exhaust (recommendations welcome)
If i miss anything, do let me know.. Like should i get Colder plugs?
Now in relation to Banzai's thread, mine comes stock at 276 hp
So theoretically will push 350+ easily. That being said do i need to upgrade my fuel system?
If so just changing the secondary rail with top feed EV!4 Bosch 1600cc will be sufficient or should i upgrade my fuel system fully with FPR, etc..
I probably will not be doing any further performance mods to push the car, hence the thought of keeping the injectors stock.
Thoughts?
09-23-17, 10:11 AM
#2
The Apexi intakes will suck in hot air from the engine bay. Try to look for one with a box that pulls in air from the front of the radiator opening. Of course you want a FMIC so this may be a moot point. Maybe look into a stick mount option you like.
A fuel step step up kit from FFE would be the easiest way to go to add the injectors.
Pretty much any exhaust will be quieter than the N1 duals, seriously. They were cool the first time I saw them but now I can't stand them they're so loud.
Twinpowers are recently discontinued so you'll have to find one used, shouldn't be too hard yet.
Sounds like youre on a good path with your car, it's a blast in that form. Have fun.
A fuel step step up kit from FFE would be the easiest way to go to add the injectors.
Pretty much any exhaust will be quieter than the N1 duals, seriously. They were cool the first time I saw them but now I can't stand them they're so loud.
Twinpowers are recently discontinued so you'll have to find one used, shouldn't be too hard yet.
Sounds like youre on a good path with your car, it's a blast in that form. Have fun.
09-23-17, 10:44 AM
#3
Weakest Links
Consider what old stuff you are retaining and consider how that may mess you up.
Sounds like you hope to retain the sequential set-up. And also the emissions set-up.
That seems to point to you retaining a lot of old solenoids and sensors.
Perhaps before going for the upgrade equipment, consider in your budget replacing all the old stuff bits you are planning on keeping, as odd as that sounds.
If you are keeping the original turbo, make a good inspection of it, or risk it blowing up on the dyno.
(P.S.: I pretty happy with my Tanabe Medallion muffler.)
Sounds like you hope to retain the sequential set-up. And also the emissions set-up.
That seems to point to you retaining a lot of old solenoids and sensors.
Perhaps before going for the upgrade equipment, consider in your budget replacing all the old stuff bits you are planning on keeping, as odd as that sounds.
If you are keeping the original turbo, make a good inspection of it, or risk it blowing up on the dyno.
(P.S.: I pretty happy with my Tanabe Medallion muffler.)
Last edited by Redbul; 09-23-17 at 10:51 AM. Reason: Added info.
09-23-17, 12:24 PM
#4
Pro Graphic designer
Thread Starter
Appreciate your thoughts.
I think i'l get my mechanic to build a "custom box" for the intakes. I already purchased a vented hood, so i guess it will be of assistance as well for the heat.
I was looking at Tanabe as well, now that you second it, it's definitely on the list.
Still didn't get a proper technical answer as to whether a fuel system upgrade is a must.
Maybe someone with a similar setup as mine can share their valuable info, especially stock injector duty cycle?
I think i'l get my mechanic to build a "custom box" for the intakes. I already purchased a vented hood, so i guess it will be of assistance as well for the heat.
I was looking at Tanabe as well, now that you second it, it's definitely on the list.
Still didn't get a proper technical answer as to whether a fuel system upgrade is a must.
Maybe someone with a similar setup as mine can share their valuable info, especially stock injector duty cycle?
09-23-17, 01:13 PM
#5
https://rotaryperformance.com/collec...ant=1119537800
Above link is what you need for the "easiest" and most practical upgrade of your secondary injectors for added fuel capacity.
Above link is what you need for the "easiest" and most practical upgrade of your secondary injectors for added fuel capacity.
Last edited by Topolino; 09-23-17 at 01:25 PM.
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Ill (09-25-17)
09-23-17, 02:01 PM
#7
Pro Graphic designer
Thread Starter
Thank you
Trending Topics
09-24-17, 01:42 AM
#8
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Temperature and pressure gauges (oil/water temp, oil/boost pressure), V-mount intercooler and radiator and a standalone (Power FC) with tuning, oil catch can, replace the air separator tank with an aftermarket one.
If its JDM it doesn't have precats and probably already has an aftermarket exhaust.
Make sure you have at least two oil coolers, which it probably does.
Otherwise, make sure you do a full tuneup (new plugs and wires, fluids, fuel filter if you have access to a lift, etc.).
If its JDM it doesn't have precats and probably already has an aftermarket exhaust.
Make sure you have at least two oil coolers, which it probably does.
Otherwise, make sure you do a full tuneup (new plugs and wires, fluids, fuel filter if you have access to a lift, etc.).
09-24-17, 02:56 AM
#9
Never too late to start anew.
If you happen to be in Japan, why not look into buying a brand new crate engine with turbo. Possibly for say $10,000 (?)
Buy two (or more) and bring them home with you. You will be very popular.
With engine rebuilt gasket, etc. kits running, say $2500, and Turbo gaskets, stud, replacement parts another $1500, before any labour cost, buying the whole thing brand new looks reasonable.
Buy two (or more) and bring them home with you. You will be very popular.
With engine rebuilt gasket, etc. kits running, say $2500, and Turbo gaskets, stud, replacement parts another $1500, before any labour cost, buying the whole thing brand new looks reasonable.
