Looking For Quality Parts?The Auto Parts Shop (a product of Ebc Technologies LLC) distributes auto parts and accessories to 48 states within the U.S. The Auto Parts Shop has a comprehensive catalog of over a million unique parts and accessories. We cover most makes and models of parts sold in the U.S.

A partial list of part types we provide include brake pads, headlights, shock absorbers as well as many more products for your motor vehicle. The AutoParts Shop can help you easily find the right car accessories. A very attractive and simple user interface helps you to shop the parts by Brand, Make, or Part, Year, Model with just a few clicks. Customers can also search the right product with search bar based on Part number, Part, Manufacturer Vendor and almost any combination of these attributes with make, model, and year. We supply these automotive products at best-discounted rates.

Our utmost priority is our client satisfaction. Whether you need a part delivered to your house or business, we ship all parts within one business day if that part is available. You will never be surprised by hidden handling or shipping charges. All our prices are provided upfront. If you are unsure of anything, we are always available via phone, chat, or email to help you with any questions you may have.
https://www.theautopartsshop.com/

 

Be careful not tobreak the location pins when removing the cover.

 

My JDM 1992 model came with the efini wheel from factory, and the combination switch looks exactly like your picture, you've got the right one for the wheel. As for the combination switch wiring being the same... Will be interesting to see.

 

Where does your horn plug into on the clockspring?

 

What do you mean by location pins? The pins on the top half of the plastic steering column cover?

 

Into the three pin connector at the top of the slipring / clock spring.



Stole this image from one being sold on yahoo auctions, you can see the connector:



When the wheel is installed in the correct orientation relative to the slipring (the pegs on the purple plastic part ensure this, the protrusion on the slipring will fit though an opening on the back of the steeringwheel. You can then tighten down the nut holding the wheel on, plug the wheel center in, and pop it back onto the wheel body.

What remains to be seen though is if the combination switch you're sourcing is a direct swap into a later car. If it's not a direct plug in swap, it'll probably just be a bit of rewiring to make it work.

 

That's actually the one I'm trying to buy on Yahoo Auctions.

Also, thank you for confirming that the Efini horn plugs into that combination ring!!

Looking at the clocksprings wiring in the photo you attached, we can see the large blue plug, and a white plug. I looked under my dash today, and I believe there is the same blue and white plug. Though it's difficult to see, It looks like it comes off the clockspring harness. I've attached the picture below. What is highlighted in Green is the main blue plug off the clockspring on my car, and the white plug I believe comes off the clockspring on my car I've highlighted in blue.




Edit: I found a picture of the Efini wheel before I bought it (the wheel that is now on my car) and it looks different than your efini wheel, there is a visible circular pattern on your wheel on the sides, mine doesn't have that. I'm guessing they sent me the wrong wheel with an Efini pad?

 

I'd say yours is correct, but has been recovered at some stage, thus the lack of perforations on the leather. It looks like they did a nice job, its very tidy.

Getting the horn pad on and off mine stumped me for quite a bit, as the three ball headed fasteners on the pad that clip down in the sockets on the wheel base are tooooight. I'd say they're not fully seated on yours and you need to muscle it together a bit more?

 

Are they really that tight? It seems like if I push the top ones in, the bottom pops out, and if I push the bottom one, the top pops out. So maybe try muscling it more?

 

I mean, I'm always hesitant to suggest that to someone else because I'm not there to get the feel of it myself, but mine was much harder to get apart than I anticipated... But I didn't damage anything putting more muscle into it.

 

I'm guessing you pop the three sections into place, and then use the single bolt to tighten it down, correct? I want to say I pushed and pushed and just had no luck, it kept popping out from the opposite side that I'd apply force to, but I can give it some more attempts, It doesn't seem like it would get damaged easily, plus I'm not about to use excessive force on it. With the ease it popped out of place when I was trying to get it fitted in with, I never used that much muscle I guess. At least that I can remember.

 

A minor update, as my parts from Japan finally arrived.

So throughout this whole process, I've learned the following: The Bathurst-X has a unique clockspring, as it was the only version of the FD made for its time period that had no airbag/SRS, as well as using a factory MoMo wheel. This leads to the clocksprings being entirely different between my car, and a normal RX-7 with no airbag/SRS. Mine has a "Contact Plate" as mazda refers to it in the parts manual, which, conveniently, is NLA. Doing some digging, I know this same "contact plate" has been shared with a few other models, but I've had no luck finding it yet.

That was my original idea, to source a contact plate that hasn't been modified as mine has by the previous owner for that aftermarket wheel. Seeing as how this "contact plate" simply rests against my Bathurst-X clockspring (first picture below), and you can obviously see copper tracing on it, I imagine that is what carries the current when the horn circuit is closed (horn is pressed) through the contact plate, onto the traces pictured on my clockspring, and down into the rest of the harness.

Now that my non Bathurst-X clockspring has arrived from Japan, I've gotten some more close up photos of it. Thanks to a few members chiming in above (and myself looking through some parts diagrams), I've been able to confirm this clockspring to be the one that connects to the non airbag/SRS efini wheel. The horn pad on the efini wheel has a three wire connector (though in this example only one wire is present, a solid white one. I'm debating on if the other two empty spots are used for cruise, should there be a cruise equipped wheel, because on the early diagrams it shows an Efini non srs wheel with cruise on it as an option.)

So the connector on the efini wheel goes to the three prong connector on the clockspring which I'm assuming has three prongs due to the provisions for cruise being built into this whether the car had it or not just to save manufacturing costs (speculating, I could be wrong here. I'll need to look more into it.)

The next concern is, okay, it looks like this entire assembly will just transfer over to my car. Looking at the back of it, I actually could remove the clockspring with the three prong, and transfer that over to my clockspring, it's held on by three screws, and the wiring isn't integrated into the assembly, it just runs on it held in place by a few clips to keep things neat and tidy, but seeing that mine has horn provisions built into it with those copper traces, I'd probably be best suited to just swapping the entire assembly over. In my previously posted pictures, I showed the existing clockspring and its harness connections to the main wiring harness, You can see the large blue plug and the white, one wire (but room for three wires in total) plug. The Efini clockspring, while sharing the same connector like I mentioned has three wires. I'll examine the car side connector and see if it has the other two wires occupied, if so, this would further reinforce my largely unsupported theory that some cars still had provisions for cruise, even though they were not so equipped.







Efini clockspring with three wire white connector.

 

I thought I'd offer a stunning (not really) conclusion to the thread. I finally managed to get the Bathurst-X clockspring off, and the Efini non SRS clockspring On. Installation was easy, three screws held the combination switch/clockspring on, and with those removed it simply slid off with gentle effort. The Efini one went on in the same manner. As for the wiring harness connectors, they both clipped into the car's harness without issue. I mounted the wheel, connected the horn connector to the clockspring, and verified functionality, I now have a working horn, and the turn signal cams cancel and work as they should, along with lights, signals, etc.

So for those out there that probably won't find themselves in this situation, I can say at least in my case, going from a factory momo wheel clockspring to an Efini non srs clockspring is a direct swap. Those with airbags, however, will likely find this not to be the case.

 

So what is the next project we can help you with?

 

What do you mean by that lol? Is that sarcasm?

 

Not at all. Enthusiasm.

 

Oh, hah. Well, in a bit less than two weeks I'll finally have time to get the Efini Y pipe, charge control valve and the charge relief valve replaced, as well as the intake hoses replaced with silicone. I think (knock on wood) that's really the only remaining issue I have to deal with aside from personal preferences with the car (getting a factory LSD in it instead of that aggressive one in there now) and some softer suspension (coilovers are a bit too rough for my taste as a city car.)

Edit: I thought I might as well take a picture of my factory combination switch/clock spring. You can see the modified "contact plate" sitting on the copper traces. I assume if my contact plate was un modified, it would have had a harness connector to connect to the oem momo wheel (which I didn't have.)

 

I have accumulated 3 or 4 of those combination switches. If you get one from a more recent S8, the graphics may be as original. Mine were pretty much worn off.

 

As far as suspension, you could watch for the "Showa Bathhurst" that came on the 2001 Type R Bathurst R. They come up for $500 (for four) once in a while. The original car came with the Showa Dampers and the Type R springs. I have had two sets with the springs replaced by Tien S-Tech. The ride is incredibly smooth. The dampers mechanically adjust to the road surface. It is reported that such Showa shocks were also used in the in period NSX.

 

Yeah, that is the issue I'm running into, since I believe non SRS clock springs are more on the rare side and older, the lettering will be/is usually worn. If I could find one new, that'd be great, might have to look into if Mazda Japan sells them still, we can apparently get usdm combination switches still..so maybe?

Edit: They still use the same clockspring that came off my car in the S8? I figured by then SRS would have been exclusive.

 

That would be nice if I could find them. My car currently has CST coilovers. My only concern would be buying them and they would be worn due to age/milage. If I could get them rebuilt, however, that would be great. Otherwise I'm probably going to go with what I can find, Koni's etc, as it looks like Bilsteins are just not available anymore, which seems weird to me.

Edit: Back to the wheel, I've yet to find another Bathurst-X wheel anywhere, I've seen later model and non SRS momo's, but not mine. I love the Efini wheel though, and I love having a working horn. If I found the original wheel I'd buy it just to have.

 

Shipping is bit high. Maybe less to the US.


https://www.ebay.ca/itm/153789127960?hash=item23ce8bdd18:g:8tQAAOSwlLheFXM f

 

Those look like great candidates. My only concern though, is if they are OEM equipment. Apparently Bilstein does not service oem equipment shocks/struts.

 

I just acquired an no-airbag Momo wheel likely from an 1996 Version 4. I was surprised to see an unfamiliar mating surface. I may be following you through this rabbit hole shortly.

 

Picture of it?