ok so i just intstalled my wideband and im getting some scary readings. at idle om at 10.2-10.4, while cruising its normal going between 14.3-15.1 now the scary one is at wide open throttle its going up to 14.5-15.4 and when it does this it feels as if boost is going away but apparently its the fuel. there has been a few times that it has been normal and pulled hard to redline and showed 10.6-11.7 all the way through which is moreso what i was expecting but thats only happened about three times. so to my question is where would you guys start by checking?? im running stock ecu with full exhaust open 3in and non seq. all emmisions have been deleted. thanks for any help guys! also running no omp with premix usually about 1oz per gallon. single supra fuel pump with aermotive fuel filter.

 

one thing i forgot to add was is there anything electrical that could maybe be overheating or not connecting right to cause this?

 

how much boost are you running?

 

My car started to go lean on WOT . I did my Fuel pump rewiring and that fixed the issue .

but like stated above what PSI? with those mods and stock ECU kind of a recipe for disaster

 

10PSI spikes to 12

 

i have the fuel pump wired directly to the battery but i do know my battery is pretty weak right
now so ill check that

 

just checked the fuel pump voltage and its getting a consistant 12.3v even at wot so on to the next

 

is your motor ported?

 

I'm running stock ecu with full exhaust open 3in and non seq.

That's your problem there is nothing to check but things to buy , 1 a PFC or a rebuild if you keep hitting 12psi with your A/R that high .

Chris.

 

I agree with this 100%.. you need an ECU asap. a few on the forums selling for cheap.

its alot cheaper then a blown motor.. TRUST ME ON THAT

 

i agree as well, i fixed it though. poured in a bottle of stp fuel injector cleaner and wow.....its running at wot everytime in the low to mid 11s

 

well maybe i spoke to soon i guess it was just coincidence that it wanted to run right after that. im thinking it may be something going on with my map sensor. ill do some test this evening and post up results

 

motor is not ported that i know of

 

Power fc and then check again.

 

yup saving up money, but as i search i see more and more people who swear by staying at 10psi with the stock ecu have no problems?

 

Full open exhaust with no tuning is asking for trouble.

 

oh yea im not arguing the subject because its pointless. the power fc or any other stand alone if easily a safer and better option, but as of now i dont have the funds for that so as i see it if i can just keep my afrs in the 11s and boost at 10psi or lower i should be safe

 

ok so i ruled out the map sensor. where would be the next step into what sensors etc. can cause it to run so lean at times. correct me if im wrong but if the secondary injectors werent coming in wouldnt the car run crappy above 3500 rpm or choke atleast??

 

Put the stock exhaust back on or at least the cat and see what happens.

 

...... that is not the issue i promise

 

It doesn't have to be.... running full exhaust will EVENTUALLY cause a blown motor because you are not able to tune the car to correct for the additional airflow.

 

Well I'll let you guys know when it blows Lol. I ran a full exhaust on my 2nd gen no tune and 16psi for over two years with no issues. I'm not removing anything, just trying to get my afrs to stay where they should be. I'm limited the problem down to something with the fuel pump or fuel pump relay. I'll keep this updated until its fixed

 

dont risk it remove the restrictor pills from the turbo lines . if this fixes your lean issues then you know you need an ECU , if you are still going lean boosting wastegate spring pressure .. then you may have an underlying issue .

TRUST ME unless you have deep pockets , which by the fact that you dont have a power FC I kind of doubt No offense I know how being broke goes . You wont like what happens when you get a bill for the rebuild .

 

One solution is to stay out of boost until you can get your hands on a pfc

 

2nd gen uses an airflow meter to measure air and calculate fuel and spark from that. The 3rd gen does not directly measure air, and can't "figure out" that you are flowing more to adjust fuel and spark.

I'm not going to say your FD will 100% blow up. I'm just saying it's risky. Rebuilding an engine is expensive and time consuming, especially on an FD. Wouldn't it be in your best interest to at least not go WOT on the engine for a while?