No it wasn't a lot of work for nothing, it will keep your engine from grenading for the time being. Boost spike on a 3rd gen, especially on a stock ecu spells rebuild.

 

Have you changed your fuel filter ?

 

Understand...I put my exhaust back on just turned the boost to 9 psi. No I have not changed the fuel filter but it does have an fittings with braided line from the fuel pump to the engine...I'll check to see what fuel filter it is (I think it's a aftermarket in line filter). I ran a fuel pressure gauge tonight to see what it was. At idle and normal driving it's right at 40 and goes up under boost so pretty sure that's good. I do have a question though.... I'm in the process of making the overflow right now as this whole time it's been running no overflow and the ast was deleted when I got it. So this whole time it's been running the nipple from the water pump to the radiator. Could that be causing the issue? As in could the coolant not be flowing correctly/getting low thus causing the coolant temperature to not get with coolant and not reading temperature causing lean conditions? Should I try putting the fuel pressure gauge between the two rails?

 

YES to the coolant being a possible cause. A powerfc would have shown you this via the commander.

thewird

 

Understand...I don't have one and am not getting one. Would be awesome if that's it and nice to know the ecu wasnt the problem and a power FC would have not been a fix but rather a expensive scan tool lol. Not trying to argue but please just leave the power FC out of this diag as I'd rather diag myself

 

Have you tried disconnecting the battery resetting the ECU and retesting?

If you have access to another stock ECU I would throw another stock ECU in and retest.

 

i have been desconnecting the battery pretty much everytime i work on it and yes i have tried another ecu to be safe but no difference. hopefully this afternoon i will get a chance to put my 2nd gen rx7 cap/extension on with the overflow nipple and run a overflow. ill post up results after i do this and bleed it

 

[IMG][/IMG]

 

this is how my current setup is with no overflow or ast

 

Install an overflow and test it.... Overflow is needed...

thewird

 

Without the overfloow your coolant has no where to run to when the pressure goes up and eventually blows a coolant line off and all the coolant spurts out , which leads to catastrophic engine no coolant over heat failure !

Do you have an aftermarket Temp gauge ?

 

just the factory gauge

 

anyone know if the coolant temp sensor still reads if say you were low on coolant and there was no coolant touching it just the hot air?

 

if you are super low on coolant and its just reading air .. it will not read correctly . but you would get an alarm the ECU WILL NOT READ CORRECTLY NOT THE GAUGE ,

The ECU has a temp sensor inside the thermostat housing in the back , it has a green plug and that sensor is what tells the ECU howmuch fuel needs to be added depending on temp

usually the colder the richer .

Now the Gauge has A completely differnet sensor which is NOT coolant dependant , it is on the rear housing right above the oil pressure sensor . wire is yellow

 

yes i know the connectors and wire colors. what i may do as well is just monitor the voltage for the coolant temp sensor FOR THE ECU when i start the car

 

Ok so a couple of years back I noticed that out of the blue my car began to see AFR's in the mid to high 12's under WOT. Drastic change from what my car was tuned to (low to mid 11's). After a brief inspection and small trials I noticed the phenomenon didn't occur all of the time. Sometimes the AFR's would be spot on, but most of the time not so much. In any case I stopped boosting and took in for repair. I just talked to my mechanic about this issue and he reminded me that it was the fuel pressure regulator's vacuum line that was causing the issue. So have a look at that as it may be your culprit as well. Sorry I didn't post this earlier but I wanted to make sure I had my facts straight.


FYI- My mods on my car were GT35R, tuned PFC, 550's with 1300's injectors.

 

i will check that... i did visually check it yeaterday and it was still in tac...i have it running directly to the nipple on the lim

 

ok so did a lot of checking tonight...
fuel pressure is good and doesn't fall under boost it rising as it should
the fpr vac line is good
the coolant temp sensor is doing it jump and reading correctly under cold and hot conditions
bleed the system again just to be sure
fuel thermosensor is reading correct voltages according to the fsm
now im just dizzy from fumes lol.
one thing I did find is there is a bad connection not at the ecu but the blue connector that does feed some wires to the ecu. so now trying to find the faulty connection as I can move the wires around and cause the car to rev up or stumble at a low rpm. who knows maybe this is the culpret

 

found one loose connection at connector x05 which is the B/W wire- this is the wire that supplies all solenoids + voltage. will be fixing this tonight and update

 

fixed and running better than ever!!

 

figured id update this thread and let you guys know the power fc was a great investment and did fix alot of issues

 

^ good to hear and thxs for posting I know u said no to the Pfc multiple times.

I am currently the same boat. Non sequential 3 inch DP, full 3 inch exhaust and running lean on stock ecu.

I hesitate to get a Pfc cause it's seem like such old technology when u have nice up to date units like adapttronic and haltech.

 

The difference between the PowerFC and everything else is that its basically a stock computer that you can change. An install of a PowerFC involves only plugging it in and cutting 4 wires if LHD and the car is running same as the stock computer would.

The only benefit other ECU's really give is direct fire so you can really up your ignition power. But that only matters if your willing to upgrade your coils and are looking for 500+ hp or really high RPM. Nothing else offers any positive benefit. That commander is SO useful at quickly diagnosing problems, people don't realize. It's something the everyday owner can understand without specialized knowledge that other ECU's will require.

thewird

 

^ thxs for chiming in, Im not a tuner but looking on that small PFC screen to tune seems like it would be challenging and seeing a full picture on a laptop seems like it would be so much easier.

Putting in Haltech or Adaptronic with a flying lead harness will also get rid of the old worn out harness in the engine bay.

My HP goals are around 320-350 so a PFC is prob the better choice, I just keep talking myself out of it and wanting the newer ecu with a new harness.

 

I don't know a single tuner that has ever used the commander for tuning. Everyone uses the datalogit to tune, its the only way.

thewird