Best response yet....... nobody NEEDS to go to redline. Like that one guy that said he NEEDED to boost to get to his house that was on a steep hill.

 

yea im just not going wot for the time being as that's just asking for trouble. I have figured its something to do with the fuel pump or fuel pump relay. there are no pills in lines anymore btw. I know expensive they get im just enjoying it for now. but im not stupid and will not just beat on it if its going lean which is why im trying to fix it

 

so newest update is ive found out it will run normal and in the 10-11.4 afrs if i let the car sit and idle for say 2-5mins and then for the first 1 or 2 runs through the gears its great but then starts to go lean again. what im trying to see is its acting as if when i let the car warm up more by sitting there is runs fine but once the air is cooling it starts going lean again

 

So youre making WOT pulls?

 

You might be hitting fuel cut on the stock ECU:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...0/#post8369595

 

def not hitting fuel cut as it will even do this as 3/4-wot throttle say 7-9 psi. no psi dependent seems to be car temp dependent

 

how else am i going to know if its running lean or not???? am i making wot pulls to redline...no......but am i making wot pulls to say 4500rpm to see if its going to be lean or rich and then letting out as soon as i can tell....yes. maybe a vid will help you

 

You are asking for it. Get the right equipment before you have to buy a motor and the right equipment. It's cheaper that way. Ask me how I know.

 

You may have more than one scenario, You will likely be hitting fuel cut at some point if you are spiking up to 12 PSI (depending on where are at in the rpm range). If you believe it's temp related, check the components which operate differently depending on temperature. You already had one issue with a temp sensor, check the fuel pressure regulator and solenoid, as well as the fuel temp sensor. Make sure you didn't switch the connectors for the fuel and coolant temp sensors (they are the same sensor, but in two different locations for two different purposes).

 

I did this. I used the commander on my pfc to check the sensors and it told me. I rewrapped my harness since i did the full non seq and the plugs didnt exactly lay in the correct positions. Its fixed now.

 

i have hit fuel cut before with this spiking and just turned the boost down so it seems to just spike to 11 but settle at 10 so havent seen the fuel cut in awhile. thats what im in the process of doing now is going over all temp related components, i know that i have the fuel thermosensor plug and the coolant temp sensor plugs in the correct spots. i have the fuel pressure regulator just going straight to the nipple in the lower intake on the underside as ive read is better. the factory fuel pressure solenoid is still plugged in just not being used. should i try using this instead?? thanks for the tips

 

replaced thermostat and bleed coolant.....problem is now gone. possibly car was stuck in closed loop???

 

glad you fixed your problem, but going wot under uncertain conditions of engine after going lean wasnt the smartest idea....ppl wonder why rotary has a rep for being so unreliable! next mod without a doubt should be a PFC

 

well problem has returned since winter has hit....back to the drawing board

 

Look at page 1, changing your thermostat , or coolant has nothing to do with closed loop , or your fuel mix you could be running no coolant and still get your AFRS the same . so to page 1 you go your injectors are probably old and not flowing enough they may be clogged ...

 

maybe im wrong i thought closed/open loop was dependent on engine temp. i am thinking of looking in the direction of the injectors as well. any certain test your thinking? why would they work fine after sitting for say a minute but not while driving?? thanks for you input

 

When the engine is first started the system goes into open loop operation. In open loop, the ECM calculates the Air/Fuel ratio based on inputs from the coolant and MAF sensors. The system remains in open-loop until the following three conditions are met:

Coolant temperature above 105°F.
Oxygen sensor has varying output voltage (indicating it is hot enough to operate properly).
A specific amount of time (preprogrammed into the MEM-CAL) has elapsed.

 

Open , and closed loop the section that works in closed loop is a very small section in the cruising low load range of the map , at WOT it is always in open loop regardless of temp .

the computer also has an enrichment map taht goes iwth temps , until the engine is warmed up you wont be getting optimal fuel economy ( closed loop)

But the thermostat being stuck or old , and your coolant unless your temps were getting hot , Which was not on the list of problems you had at the time it really has nothing to do with closed loop or going lean at WOT

 

To the OP.

Dont sweat all this PFC talk. I had a street port,non-sequential twins,no emissions,full 3" going to an Apexi GTspec catback exhaust, stock intercooler and twin HKS intake filters.

Boosting 10-11 psi electronically controlled through aftermarket boost controller. AFR running 11.4-12.0 to redline for 5 years it ran fine and SAFE.

The guy that just posted above me about open and closed loop needs to go back to the drawing board.

Open loop runs on startup until conditions you have already listed are met. After that the ECU stays in Closed loop continuously trimming fuel for optimal power and fuel economy. If your boost is steady and your running lean up top I would take a look at your secondaries make sure they are the right ones in there they could also be dirty..

 

thanks for the FRIENDLY reply...its nice to feel like people are wanting to help you insted of just bashing....anyways i will look into that as well. only thing im stumped on is why would they work fine if i pull over for say a min after driving and take off?

 

another thing i am thinking as im just sitting here at working thinking about possiblities...could the coils be failing or at least getting over heated to the point where maybe the trailings are not firing correctly/or leadings and therefore causing the o2 sensor to see unburnt fuel and cutting fuel out of the mix therefore running lean???

 

If the plugs were fouled or not firing your O2 would be monitoring an extremely rich condition. Very doubtful it is plug or ignition related at this point.

 

at this point i have to suck it up and buy a harness....ive done everything i can to salvage this one but its just one problem after another....do you guys think i will be ok with the rywire for single turbo conversion as i have all the solenoids deleted anyways or should i go with a factory harness and run resistors??even if the wiring doesnt fix my issue it needs to be done

 

But if you run a harness with all the solenoids etc omitted from the harness you wont be able to run the stock ECU.

 

Get a PFC and you'll find your problem in no time. The PFC is not only a tuning tool, but a way to diagnose your car quickly and easily as well. Your willing to buy a harness but your not willing to buy a PFC, SUCH LOGIC. PFC's are going for $700-$800 a pop, a rywire harness will cost you about the same and won't fix your problem.

Also, rewiring your fuel pump before PFC is silly as it makes your car run rich.

thewird