hey everyone having trouble with my fd, recently took it out of storage, everything was good for approx 30mins of run time and then quit on side of the road.
my fuel pump is not kicking in doesnt run at all, i have ground but no power coming into fuel pump connector, fuel pump fuse under dash is good, relay seems to be working fine i have power to it and have tried different relays, tried jumping power at relay box but still nothing, wondering where to go next?

 

First, try jumping the fuel pump test connector in the diagnostic box. If you open the box you'll see an F/P pin and a few GND (ground) pins. Jumper the two together and the fuel pump will run continuously with the key in On.

Normally the ECU does a quick prime of the pump when you turn the key to On, it will not continuously run.

Jumping the test connector will help you to track down what in the system is bad. Get your meter and the shop manual and trace down the circuit. There's the circuit opening relay under the hood and also the fuel pump resistor relay that's under the cruise control module near the brake master. Those are all good places to start testing.

Dale

 

thanks daleclark
few things for me to try! i can jump the connector at the fuel pump its self so i know that part is good, just something astray from front of car to back, do some more digging!

 

I had something similar happen to my FD last year. Was running fine, parked it, next morning the fuel pump wouldn't turn on. My problem was that the previous owner 12V modded the fuel pump and used low grade wire to do so, which had melted/burnt together. I replaced all the junk wiring and everything ran well again.

Also, are you part of the maritime rotary owners chat on Facebook? We've got about ~15 people in the chat that help each other out.

 

Thanks for the info. Still digging to find problem. Had a decent rally at it Sunday. But no luck yet.

And no never heard of it. But will check it out

 

Pm me your name and I'll add you.

 

Something that seems to be more and more common lately is the connector in the tank melts. The easiest way to check this is to jump the connector as Dale suggested and check for power at the plug in the hatch. If you have power there, pull the fuel pump assembly and see if you have power to the pump itself. On my car the harness from the pump had melted where it plugs into the underside of the fuel pump hanger lid

Vince

 

This literally just happened to my fuel pump assembly as well. Thought my 1 year old fuel pump had gone bad but tested with a known good pump which promptly didn't work either. Found this issue afterwards and fixed it; old pump ran like a champ afterwards.

 

Had the same issue. In my case I replaced my 26 year old fuel pump with a brand new one and the car started right up. On my next attempt to start the car, however, the pump didn't turn on. After removing the fuel pump assembly again, I used a multimeter to check the power at the pump but this time I wiggled the wires on the pigtail around while measuring resistance. Sure enough, connectivity would break with just a little movement. I replaced the fuel pump assembly with a used one whose connectivity remained even while aggressively "wiggling" the pig tail. Seems to have solved the issue.

BTW, I went through the entire list of troubleshooting steps that I was able to find on this forum. Just want to say thanks to everyone here. I don't post often, but this forum has helped me through boost leak, vacuum leak, starter issues, simplified sequential conversion, Power FC vs A/C.... the list goes on.

 

i unfortunately do not have power getting back to the plug, even when i jump the power! im thinking someone at one time eliminated the fuel pump resistor because i can not find it, ive heard its a common thing to do if you are making more than stock power, so that the pump runs at full capacity all the time

 

Hey just an update
Finaly had a bit of time to fool with my fd. Still not luck with my fuel pump issue
Can jump diagnostic ports but no difference. When I jump ports I do get the fuel pump relays to click. But it still doesn't kick in my fuel pump. Any further help would be great

 

The fuel pump resistor would be under the brake booster. It looks like a heat sink. Even if the resistor isn't there, the wiring will be. It's a 2 pin oval plug. Based on everything you've done so far, you have to go through the circuit point by point until you find where power dips out. You'll need the wiring diagram for that. It sucks and is going to be difficult and take a long time but it's the only thing left