Hey all sorry to bug you guys again but im still having problems with my FD. The car will crank all day w/o problem and will even catch somewhat, but it wont stay and idle. I have checked everything im getting a good spark, just got the injectors back from being cleaned, ive got 42psi comming from the fuel pump, compression is good, rats nest is in good shape with silicone hoses i just put in, TPS is within spec, is there anything i could have missed, or does anyone have any ideas why it wont start?

audio link here
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/113754/car%20problems.wav

 

Pressure censor behind UIM?
Thats why my car didn't hold idle bc that vacuum line wasn't connected.

 

i didnt think of that.... its connected, ill check the voltage though to make sure it in spec

 

you sure your engine is not flooded?

 

Did the car ever start fine? Did you buy the car with this problem, or did it happen recently?

 

i bought the car knowing it had a blown engine seal, took my time rebuilding the engine and made sure everything was done right, clearances for the seals etc. However before the rebuild it started however it was a royal pain in the @$$ to get it to turn over as you would expect. I did go over the car with a fine tooth comb as I was reassembling it though so if there is so much as a bolt not torqued to spec id be shocked. I checked it for flooding by pulling out the leading plugs and letting it turn over, but no dice. think some two-stroke fluid would improve things at all?

 

A fresh rebuild shouldnt be very difficult to start if the housings are decent. I would try some new plugs and if that doesnt work I would do a compression test.

 

ok update. I checked everything again, and when i checked the plugs to see if it was flooding lo and behold the plugs were soaked so i went ahead and did the usual procedure, pulling the plugs cranking the engine add 2-stroke fluid and a new set of plugs, now the engine will catch, but only for about 3 seconds or so at a time. I am apparently running rich as i could easily smell the unburnt gas as i cranked it. I did swap in a jspec ecu that came with the car in place of the standard american one and while the car still wont start it is no longer running the fans for an hour at a time after i take the key out of the ignition so i think my problem could be a dud ecu. checked the compression and got 120psi three bumps on both rotors. is there anyone in the central valley of CA who would be able to loan out a working ECU for an hour or two so i can either determine thats the problem or rule it out?

 

Post in the west section to see if any one could lend you a ECU

 

By "now the engine will catch, but only for about 3 seconds or so at a time" do you mean it actually starts and runs for about 3 seconds? Or it sounds like it's going to start?

If it actually runs it's probably the wiring to the fuel pump resistor located below the brake booster.

 

I sorta had this issue and it was cause i forgot to ground the grounds on the front behind the front bumper by the horn. Those 2 white thingys

 

If it cranks totally normal and seems like its gonna start but doesnt (and I mean doesnt start at all, period) or just cranks and cranks... and if you are getting fuel and spark then I would try to pull start it. If the car thinks the engine is loaded up it will not let it fire while using CRANK POSITION with the key, but will fire in ON POSITION. Dont know if this will help you this time, but I bet it will some day.

 

i had the same problem and feathered the gas a bit to start her up now my car feels like a dog when i try to get her going idk what to do

 

i take that back, TPS was new and in spec last week but today i checked it again and its gone, like waaaay gone. I have no idea what can kill of a TPS like that, is there any way it could have received a jolt from the ECU which fried it?